I have some 18″ x 24″ panels I need to get flat, and my power tools won’t get me there (6″ jointer, 13″ planer). Well, it will if I’m willing to rip the panel into 6″ strips, but I don’t want to do that. So that means, flatten with a plane.
I have a 4 1/2 which is an awesome smoother, but my understanding (I’m new to this) is that the standard method would be scrub, jack, jointer, smoother. Well, my stock starts out pretty good already, so I’m quite sure I can do without the scrub. I think I’m probably flat enough, in fact, to go to the jointer directly. So I think I want to buy a jointer plane, and I was looking at the two LN’s.
One #7 is a low angle, and one is standard. I’m not dealing with wild grain for most of my eight panels. One, though, is pretty figured (purpleheart, oddly enough, darn near quilted). So here are my questions:
1) Can I just use my smoother? Will a 4 1/2 give me enough stability and bite that I can get my 4/4 rough stock to a dependable 3/4″ with just the smoother? Any advice on proceeding (eg plane adjustments)?
2) If I need to get more planes, can I just get the jointer? Should I just look at a jack or a fore, and forget the jointer for now? If I need a jointer, why would I choose a standard jointer over the $100 cheaper low angle?
If anyone’s willing to illuminate this a bit, I’d appreciate it. Thanks!
Replies
I'm currently working boards roughly the same size as your panels; I can assure you that anything bigger than a #6 will be too much tool for panels this small. I'm working my boards from roughsawn, using a scrub, #5 1/2 and #4 1/2...
The #5 1/2 has all the heft you'll need to take an aggressive cut with authority; set for a fine cut, that heft will tame some particularly wild grain with ease...
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Hmm, well thank you for the advice! I was all set to buy the #7, but I think I will take your advice and see how it goes.
Thank you very much!
I was all set to buy the #7, but I think I will take your advice and see how it goes.
Don't get me wrong.. the #7 is an invaluable plane for working large boards... but there's the key word... large... at 22 1/2" long its only an inch and half shorter than your panel... Mark it down as the tool to buy for the next project... If nothing else, it gives you a little more time to decide between bevel up or bevel down...
That said, from what I hear, the L-V #62 1/2 will give a #5 1/2 a run for its money...
Hope this helps...
;)Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Well I ended up deciding on a #6... 4" shorter than a 7, but considerably more heft and inertia than the 4 1/2 and even the 5 1/2. I have a junker jack I can use, and since the surface it leaves will be long gone (#6, 4 1/2 and scrapers will all follow as necessary) I think I'm in good shape.
Thanks!
FatherJohn,
I agree with you not to rip your panel to fit it to your 6" jointer. I amde the same decision a few years ago when I realized my 6" jointer is not adequate. I learned to demension lumber with hand planes and I am very glad I did. Even though I now have a 8" jointer I still bring out the hand planes more than I thought I would.
I recall you mentioning the term "fairly flat" which I would recommend you forget. Flt,square,and straight are the abolute minimum if you want your joints to fit and your work to be square. That is the first step.
I start with a scrub plane which is a very easy tool to use. It really hogs off large amounts of chips in the initial step. Next is a good jack plane or the #5 or 5 1/2. A used #5 in good shape is fairly easy to get on E-bay or used tool outlets. I use mine very frequently so add a good replacement blade from Hock or Lie-Nielsen. After the jack I reach for the jointer and my primary jointer is a L-N #7 although I also use the Stanley 608 on occasion. I would definately stay with the standard pitch. Low angle planes are great for end grain or diffulcult grain. I have tried the high angle pitches but still like the standard angle for most uses.
I would not skip the jack planes as they are your workhorses.
Dan
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