Replies

1. 
   RickL | Jun 29, 2002 10:04pm | #1

   Out feed table is too high. Just raise it a small amount until it diappears. If you go too high you will notice the board kind of trails off not planing the end of the board. If that happens drop the outfeed table to where you got snipe and go up slowly again.

2. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 29, 2002 11:37pm | #2

   Just wondering were you are applying your pressure to. It should be on the outfeed side.

   To properly setup you can try this method.

   1. Make a 3/4" x 1" x 12" hardwood stick with at least one trued surface. then make a mark on the stick 3" and another 3 1/8" from one end and place it on the outfeed table

   2. With the stick on the out feed table rotate the cutterhead clockwise until one of the knives come in contact with the stick.

   3. Once the stick makes contact with the knife then stick a piece of masking tape on the outfeed table and make a mark on it so it lines up with the 3" mark on the stick. (see attached picture)

   4. Then rotate the cutter head clockwise again. It should lift the stick and pull it forward to the 3 1/8" mark. If the stick goes further than than the second mark raise the cutter head if it does not go far enough then raise the cutter head.

   5. Use this method to check all the blades as one might be set to take a deeper cut then the rest. I also use this method to set my blades when I reinstall them after sharping.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

   
1. 
   junah | Jun 30, 2002 04:16pm | #3

   thanks fo all the info., I will give it a try today.

2. 
   quatersawn | Jul 01, 2002 08:07pm | #4

   You know, I've always put pressure on the outfeed side as well. Seems to be the only way to get nice even cuts, but I was watching "NORM" one afternoon, and he was talking the infeed side! I thought, your wrong NORM. I have never been able to get a nice cut on the infeed side. Is this the basis for another discussion? Or does Norm not his jointer from his Ash?

1. 
   Bernie3265 | Jul 01, 2002 09:09pm | #5

   As a beginner, I tend to read all I can about these things before I try it. I also watch Norm on a regular basis.

   My books say to apply even pressure along the board and take small cuts. I do this and I don't seem to have any problem with snipes. If you keep the pressure equal accross the length of the board then you will simply take off the highest points. Eventually, you will hear the blades cutting along the full length and this is when you know the full length of the edge has been jointed. I use the same method for face jointing and I'm pretty sure that is why the Jet Jointers come with two push pads instead of one.

   I would like to add a disclaimer to my comment. Wood is the one thing that you can't  predict. These methods may not work in every instance.

   One wise quote I recently read really popped open my eyes. It went something to the effect: "Learning the tool is easy, learning the wood is the tough part".

1. 
   RSRose | Jul 01, 2002 10:26pm | #6

   Bernie,

   "I also watch Norm on a regular basis."

   But just for laughs, right?

   Rich

   (being a snot)

1. 
   Bernie3265 | Jul 01, 2002 10:38pm | #8

   Sometime it is rather humorous isn't it. I really get a kick out of it when he pings on himself. He does this regularly once you get to understand his humour. I saw one the other day where he was using a short fence on his cabinet saw. It really raised my eyebrows, I wasn't aware that Delta made one of those.

   One of the funiest ones was when he rebuilt his workbench and pulled a wheel barrow full of routers out of a drawer. Watching him parade around with all of those routers in a wheel barrow had me in stitches. His own comments were something like "What would anyone need all of these routers for".

2. 
   SCFrankland | Jul 01, 2002 10:36pm | #7

   Well the way I joint wood, the way Norm joints wood, and the way several of my buddies joint wood are all different but when it is all said and done the boards are flat and square. I have heard to much about Norm here on the web and in FWW to even make a comment. Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

1. 
   Bernie3265 | Jul 01, 2002 11:15pm | #9

   Scott, I also don't want to get into the subject of Norm's good, bad or unsafe techniques.

   I have often stated that I study the art of woodworking a lot. I rarely have the opportunity to see someone actually do it. Many times I've been watching Norm and heard myself say... Oh, thats how its done... Once I have an idea of how its done, I can go back to the book and follow the procedures in an understanding manner. It really does help but you have to remember that Norm is on T.V. and you may not be getting the whole picture.

   Saturday mornings on HGTV you can also watch David Marks. Hes an interesting fellow.

1. 
   RSRose | Jul 01, 2002 11:35pm | #10

   I think that Norm's harmless. I don't think that anyone really takes notes and tackles anything in the way that he works because they saw him do it.

   But it is frightening to see some of his work methods. His projects are on the level of building bird houses with plywood, nailed together.

   Somehow, he has convinced his sponsors that he is entertaining and that people watch the show. Numbers of viewers, that's all that matters. He could advocate finishing wood with peanut butter. As long as his numbers are good, his show will continue to run.

   (Come to think of it, he could prolly get a peanut butter sponsor to sign on!)

   Rich

2. 
   patternmaker | Jul 01, 2002 11:53pm | #12

   Norm sells tools and motorized equipment. I doubt that he has to buy anything that he uses. The more different machines that he can demonstrate in the half hour show, the happier his sponsors are. The woodworker on PBS is ,imho, Roy Underhill.He must be good to have gone all these years without chopping a foot or a finger or an arm the way he uses his edge tools. ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

3. 
   BenM | Jul 02, 2002 12:09am | #14

   He could advocate finishing wood with peanut butter.

   You laugh, but in a recent issue of Woodwork magazine (June 2002?) this technique was recommended in by a reader for distressing furniture.  Spread the peanut butter on your furniture, let the dog eat it, and voila, instant aging.

4. 
   RSRose | Jul 02, 2002 12:30am | #15

   That's simply inadequate information, Ben.

   What kind of dog? How much peanut butter? Full strength, or a wipe-on mixture diluted with jelly? Brand? Was there a shellac basecoat on the wood or what?

   C'mon. We're craftsman here. We need accurate data.

   Rich

3. 
   Bernie3265 | Jul 01, 2002 11:49pm | #11

   Junah, did you're question about your jointer get answered? I'm a new woodworker also and noticed that I inadvertantely changed the subject matter of this thread. It seems this happens a lot. Without thinking, I mentioned Norm and suddenly the subject changed from helping you to discussing the pro's and con's of the New Yankee Workshop.

   In you next post on this thread just write in all CAPS> HELP, I STILL HAVE SNIPE PROBLEMS !. I'm sure the thread will turn right around these folks have an amazing amount of knowledge and really like to help.

   Again, sorry for the mistake.

1. 
   junah | Jul 02, 2002 04:22pm | #20

   Thanks to all for your help.  I went out Sunday, made the suggested changes from this board and had no problems or snipe.  The outfeed table was too high.

   Thanks again,

   Junah

4. 
   Lilshaver | Jul 01, 2002 11:58pm | #13

   I read your problem to mean that you have snipe on the trailing (end) edge of the board. If you follow the advise of rick3ddd and lower your outfeed table, you will find the snipe on the trailing end of your board will increase, not decrease. The correct course of action is to raise the outfeed table until it is exactly even with the topmost arc of the cutter. Paying attention to pressure is important also.

1. 
   RickL | Jul 02, 2002 02:36am | #17

   You're right jeff...in my haste I blew it. Infeed table is to low which causes snipe. Hard to believe I used to make my living fixing these things.

5. 
   SCFrankland | Jul 02, 2002 01:01am | #16

   So how did you make out with your snipe problem?

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

6. 
   BillNemy | Jul 02, 2002 10:34am | #18

   The jointer outfeed table is out of adjustment or the jointer knives are lower than the table.  If the outfeed table is higher than the cutting diameter of the knives you will get the crown in the edge surface of your wood.  You must adjust the outfeed table to the cutting diameter by lowering the table to the actual cutting diameter.  If you get a snipe at the end of the board, you have the knives too high above the outfeed table or the outfeed table is lower than the cutting diameter.  You need to adjust the outfeed table to the cutting diameter. 

   The easiest way to check your adjustments is to run two boards through the jointer.  When the boards are put edge to edge, and the joint is touching along the total surface, you will know it is correct.  If it touches in the center, lower the outfeed table.  If the joints are touching, except the rear end, raise the outfeed table.

1. 
   patternmaker | Jul 04, 2002 10:36pm | #21

   My aproach to the snipe problem may be simplistic,but here goes. First with any jointer, it is vital that the knives be installed exactly parallel to the surface of the outfeed table. Now,raise the outfeed table until the test board hits its edge and comes to a stop.Now,gradually lower the outfeed table until the test piece just slides onto it`s surface.This should be the proper setting. The adjustment is so slight that you may now have a small snipe at the end of the board. If so,raise the table slightly and take another test cut.When the work slides smoothly onto the outfeed and doesn`t drop once it clears the head,the adjustment is correct. It is a fact of jointer lore,that if the infeed table is set up parallel to the outfeed,the only function of the infeed table is to control the depth of cut. ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

1. 
   TomMGTC | Jul 05, 2002 02:32am | #22

   I'll have to disagree with you on that one. The infeed and outfeed tables do have to be parrallel. Let the games begin.

   Tom

7. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 02, 2002 04:10pm | #19

   J,

   This picture may help.

   it's not so much that the outfeed table is high. The table is angled with the high side at the end. Once the work piece leaves the infeed table it "drops" a bit to make full contact with the outfeed table and the snipe is formed. You need to first align the in and outfeed tables, then adjust the height of the outfeed table to be equal with the top of the blades.

   

   View Image