This is way off the topic of woodworking — other than it’s related to my new workshop 🙂
I’m putting a workshop down in my basement, and need to build a light-duty wall across the width of the basement to help contain the sawdust. I’m stuck on the proper way to attach studs to the 1st floor joists. They’re all the “SilentFloor” I-beam type, with a thin, composite chipboard sandwiched between micro-laminate horizontal components. Will attaching studs (or Strong-Tie style brackets) to them violate their structural integrity? In looking all around the basement, I see nothing more than a few staples in the micro-lam, but lots of holes drilled through the composite for routing wiring.
Life is further complicated by the fact that I live the Denver area, where we have expansive clay soil. Basement walls are supposed to be built using “floating wall” construction (which I have an example of on the basement stairwell) — but that means any stud walls in the basement are actually going to be hanging from the first floor joists, as opposed to a normal wall which would actually support the joists. Are these microlam/composite joists really that strong?
Any advice, including pointers to a more appropriate web site/forum would be greatly appreciated. I’ve gotta figure this out over the next couple of weeks before the electrician comes to wire the workshop for 220V.
-M.
Replies
Nailing into the chord (horizontal) members of the truss-joists shouldn't be a problem since your subfloor is obviously nailed into the top chord. But I understand your concern - perhaps checking on the trus-joist website they have some advice or at least a contact number where you could call for tech advice.
If you're not supposed to frame walls tight between the basement slab and the underside of the joists, you could nail 2x2's on each side of the top plate to restrain the top of the wall leaving the top plate below the bottom of the joists.
Yes, the trusses are really quite strong. Their only drawback is that on long spans they should be bridged to prevent twisting.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
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Try and think about using metal studs and screw the studs in place. On the top track use screws to fasten the track in place to the joist then use a product called Sashco which is very water proof when dry and flexible. It's a glue / caulking, to fix the Steel track channel to the floor, (and is only available at lumber yards which they may need to special order for you.) Then the studs can be screwed in place. Once this is done the drywall can be installed unless you have electrical to install in the wall. Also you could leave a 3/8" gap between the concrete wall and the stud / drywall and caulk this with the sashco product as well, for a flexible joint which would then be sealed from dust and bugs. It is available in several colors.
Edited 2/18/2003 1:13:57 AM ET by zoo
Edited 2/18/2003 1:14:59 AM ET by zoo
Hi Mark:
I live a long way from you but we have a similar problem with movement that requires so called "floating walls". The method i describe here is used for basement walls only.
Locally here, the problem is solved by attaching the wall to the floor and leaving a gap between the top plate and the joist. I left a 1 inch gap. This allows the wall to move up and down as required. Small holes are drilled into the top plate from below through which I drove long spikes into the bottom of the joists. The walls are secure and have no give to them other than straight up and down the length of the spike. I do not believe there has been much movement because there are no visible cracks at the wall/ceiling joint(gyproc).
This passed inspection. The only comment was that I used a heavier spike than is normally used. My joists are 2x12 hemfir lumber.
The movement may be greater in your area so you should check with your building inspector before building the wall.
Hope this helps.
Ed
Excellent suggestion. It didn't occur to me that the walls could be floated at the top.
-M.
click on header at the top Breaktime form. That form has a lot of contractors
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