I’ve seen posts asking about where to get fittings to connect various tools to DC systems, and decided that this would be a good opportunity to do a “show and tell” for a method I often use.
Yesterday, I bought a DeWalt 735 planer to replace my 15 yr old Delta that’s been on its last legs for a couple of months. That old Delta has been a workhorse, but now that I’m woodworking full time, it was time to kick it up a notch.
I needed to turn the chip exhaust 90* so the hose wouldn’t be in the way of the outfeed, so I bought a 3″ DWV elbow, some aluminum flashing, a roll of PVC tape, and a couple of hose clamps.
The first picture shows the elbow and the planer connector – and the fact that they have the same OD.
The second picture shows them connected with a piece of flashing wrapped around the OD’s. The flashing overlaps ~1″.
The third picture shows the completed installation after the flashing was wrapped with PVC tape and the hose clamps tightened. The whole process took about 15 minutes.
I’ve done variations on this at several locations and the connections are solid with no leaks.
Edited 11/13/2009 2:00 pm by Dave45 <!– DAVE4517 –>
Edited 11/13/2009 2:02 pm by Dave45
Replies
Clever solution, using readily available parts, to what can be an irritating, time consuming problem.
Thanks. I'm rather proud of it myself. - lolWhat has really surprised me is how solid those connections are. I used to use a couple of sheet metal screws, but have decided that they really aren't necessary.
Dave,
Okay, I'm going to wade in here, in hopes I can clear up some of my confusion.
I have the same planer you just bought, and you're exactly right, the hose needs to be directed out of the way of the outfeed.
When I go hunting for fittings, and start going from department to department, and what with I.D.'s and O.D.'s, and mixing and matching fittings (ABS with DWV with Schedule 40 or 80 with "dust collector" fittings) I soon just give up. The fittings are so seemingly micrometer-dependent, and non-uniform, interchangeable here, non-interchangeable there, not to mention, the dust ports on the tools themselves are at home, in the shop, I just know I'm going to be frustrated so I've been putting it off and putting it off.
To be more specific, 3" DWV elbow --where, exactly does one find such a thing? Plumbing? Electrical? Heating and air conditioning? And the flashing? Once in the store, don't worry, I'm not pestered by employees trying to help me. They just sort of vanish when anyone walks toward them.
Also, I see your hose is not a standard DC hose, it looks like maybe irrigation or drainage duct. If I go with a set-up like this and use a standard 4" DC hose, or round metal ductwork, what are the chances they'd match up?
Upon re-reading this, I sound confrontational, but I'm not trying to be. I appreciate your post and the pictures. I suppose I'm just steeling myself against frustration yet again.
--jonnieboy
I'll try to help a bit........"DVW" means Drain/Waste/Vent, and is a plumbing term. And in this case, a 3"DVW elbow is found in the aisle that has all of the plastic drain fittings.Flashing is used for both siding and roofing jobs, but is generally found in the roofing section of home centers.I'll also add one more thought. Instead of using a combination of flashing and tape and clamps, you might be able to find a "No-hub repair sleeve" in the plumbing section. These are a rubber sleeve, and a stainless cover, with the hose clamps already on the outside. Dunno if you'll be able to find one big enough for 3" or 4", but its worth a look.And here's one other thought. If you cant find the no-hub repair sleeves, look in the roofing section, next to the metal flashing, for "Vycor" flashing with aluminum. This is a Bituthene rubber product that has a thick foil covering on one side. It also has some incredibly sticky adhesive. I'll bet that if you use the aluminized vycor, it would eliminate the need for both the tape and the flashing.
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
A Fernco coupling would be an even easier solution.
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings
♫ If you’re OCD and you know it wash your hands ♫
Wouldn't a Fernco want to buckle if it got any lateral force? I've never tried one, but I had problems when I just tried taping two fittings together. They lasted for a while, but came apart pretty quickly unless they were vertical. Then, one day I tried using a wrap of some aluminum flashing I had and that (with the hose clamps) seemed to make all the difference.The only real differences between my home made coupling and a no hub coupling is the location of the metal, and the no hub probably seals a bit better since the rubber will seal around the fitting. And, my version is probably cheaper. - lol
Dave,
I'll wait for Pzaxtl's answer, but those Ferncos look like they'd be a great solution.
As far as 'hubless,' or 'no-hub' do you mean the kind that are three or four interconnected pieces, and you twist them around until you get the angle you want? I hope so, because I bought two of them this evening.
I'm about ready to start building a six-inch duct out of the (soundproof!) closet where my DC is housed. I'm also in the middle of installing a sub-feeder panel to the shop, so I'll have the Delta dust collector wired at 240 volts and pulling air through a 6 duct. Woo-hoo! Not that I'll get any more suction by wiring it 240, but whatever.
Looking forward to hearing more on the Ferncos.
--jonnieboy
Here's a pdf showing the hubless connectors. They're made by Fernco, but aren't what Pzaxtl is talking about. I'm sure that they would work, but note the prices. The pieces for my coupling are <$5 and these run around $20 for a 4". - lolThese aren't those adjustable elbows you bought. I've tried those and didn't like them. They want to crumple when you tighten the hose clamps.
Edited 11/14/2009 10:02 am by Dave45
The repair couplings that I mentioned are just like those pictured in pzaxtl's post, except they also have a stainless steel covering that goes over the rubber, but under the clamps.It adds some long-term strength that the rubber alone might not have.Depending on the wall-thickness of the Fernco, it might actually work quite well (or, as you question, it might be too "flopsy").
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
I've used no hubs to repair sewer lines, but just never thought of using one for a DC connection. I might check it out sometime just for fun. - lol
Wouldn't a Fernco want to buckle if it got any lateral force?
Well, it is rubber, and it is somewhat flexible, but honestly, the ones I've used have been pretty stiff. Were you to seat the fitting on your planer and your duct work well inside the coupling there'd be very little rubber unsupported by either the duct work or the dust fitting on your planer.
Personally, I've never used one for this application, although I've used several for their intended use. But, for the money, it's certainly worth a try.
♫ If you’re OCD and you know it wash your hands ♫
Next time I need to make up a DC connection, I might give one of those ideas a try.This forum can be pretty cool. I posted a trick I've used to get around a problem everyone has encountered, and others throw in other ideas. It would be fun to find out how many people read this thread and tried one (or more) of what has been suggested.
Jonnie -YesMam covered most of your questions just fine. That DWV elbow is made from ABS plastic (the black stuff) and the OD of the fitting on the 3" elbow is right at 4". ABS pipe and fittings are as common as dirt in the plumbing section of finer building supply stores everywhere. They're also available in big box stores which aren't usually thought of as "finer". - lolI'm seldom pestered by offers of help in a big box store, either. I prefer that, actually. - lolThe hose is standard 4" DC flexible hose. I use a lot of it right now, but will soon be rebuilding my DC ducting using 6" pipe with as little 4" flex hose as I can get away with.I hadn't thought of using a no hub coupling, but wouldn't be surprised to find that a 4" no hub would fit nicely on a 3" elbow. I'm sure that they're available in the plumbing section of your local Borg store. - lol
Dave and YesMaam,
Those are great answers. Thanks. I could just feel myself relax when I read them.
The plumbing boot I know about. They're worth their weight in gold.
Sorry about misidentifying your DC hose as drain tile. Oops!
So I guess my most immediate questions have been answered. I'll make another trip there tonight and put some of this stuff to use.
Talk to you soon.
--jonnieboy
"Upon re-reading this, I sound confrontational, but I'm not trying to be." Nahhh, I hear the frustration -- it's a familiar feeling every time I even consider thinking about dust collection!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
<<The fittings are so seemingly micrometer-dependent, and non-uniform, interchangeable here, non-interchangeable there,..>>I can feel for you, having been through that. Quick fix for me is to wrap a layer or two of duct tape either on the inside or outside of the fitting if it is wee bit too large. Usually creates a snug fit. Then simply use some small sheet metal screws to hold it together.Obviously this only works up to a certain point. Usually one can come very close to being at that point with various fittings.Hope this helps.Cheers,Peter
Peter,
Thanks! I came up with a couple tricks today at the hardware store. It's yet to be seen if they work.
In the meantime, I made a fitting like Mike's for my planer.
Back to wiring the shop!
-jonnieboy
Dave,
I see they have the flashing/clamp combination ready-made. Have you seen those? I'm guessing that here again yours will be cheaper.
I'll let you know later this afternoon.
It's rare that someone is talking about a fix for a problem I happen to be working on at the same time. Suh-weet!
--jonnieboy
Those are actually intended for repairing sewer lines (I needed one at my own house a couple of months ago - lol), but they might work just fine foe connecting DC systems. If it works, let them know. They might "discover" a whole new market.
Hi Guys
For making those plastic bits fit together I found that judicious use of a hot air gun will soften the plastic enough to stretch quite a distance. I have even formed square from circular. Do it outside though and don't breathe the gases.
wot
Dave,
I e-mailed you last night and still couldn't get the picture uploaded. That was why I tried to do it in an e-mail, because I couldn't figure out how to get it out of photoshop.com. Ah well.
Here then is my Dave45-inspired planer dust fitting.
And thanks for the tip!
--jonnieboy
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