Replies

1. 
   bill_1010 | Jul 15, 2003 04:14am | #1

   youll need to give more info. Like what it is, where its used, If it will see lots of use or not.  If its a table top etc.

2. 
   Fingrs | Jul 15, 2003 05:10am | #2

   Hi, Rodney,

   I favor Bartley's gel varnish.  Most of my work is in cherry and this finish really doesn't darkent the wook like Danish oil does.  I generally use 3-4 coats of the Bargley varnish and finish is pretty indestructible, and probably looks like what you're looking for.

   go to http://www.thebartleycollection.com or maybe http://www.bartleycollection.com

   or your local paint store.

   Regards,

3. 
   DaveinPa | Jul 15, 2003 05:37am | #3

   Give Min-Wax Clear Sheild a try. It drys clear and not yellow like polyurethane.

   Dave in Pa.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/15/2003 10:41:56 AM ET by DAVE6281

1. 
   Sancho | Jul 15, 2003 06:46am | #4

   Enduro coat makes a flat and very flat w/b poly it will make it look like there is absolutly no finish on the wood.

   http://www.compliantspraysystems.com 

   Darkworks:  No Guns No Butter squilla and the bling bling.

4. 
   forestgirl | Jul 15, 2003 08:50am | #5

   I agree with WmP, we need more info.  My personal preference would not be a water-borne finish, generally.  Especially on a piece with lots of character.  The WB finishes just don't lend any depth to the look of the wood the way an oil/varnish mix would.

   Give us some details, Rodknee!

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Sancho | Jul 15, 2003 05:15pm | #6

   No but it would give it a clear hard natural unfinished look. Isnt that what he wanted? 

   Darkworks:  No Guns No Butter squilla and the bling bling.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 15, 2003 07:55pm | #7

   I don't think we know what he wants, Ron, because he hasn't answered our (WmP & me) request for more info.  He asked what we'd recommend for "a good clear coat finish for wormy chestnut  wood."  So we have 2 adjectives to work with:

   good

   clear

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Gretchen | Jul 16, 2003 12:52am | #8

   It doesn't HAVE to be poly varnish--it can be non-poly varnish which will give you a more natural less plastic look.  I agree (a little) about use, etc.   But a wiped on 50/50 varnish finish will give a very natural look--not thick, not glossy (if you use satin varnish) and with a depth.Gretchen

2. 
   rodknee | Jul 16, 2003 02:14am | #10

   again, sorry for not responding asap, I've just been pretty busy....

   And yes, I'm just looking for something that would give it some protection over the years, but I don't want it to be really glossy and thick or "waxy" looking.. Just natural.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 16, 2003 05:25am | #11

   Ahhhh, he's back!  For that type of use, I'd go with a wiping varnish.  Homemade tung-oil/varnish mix, or Bartley's gel varnish.  I've not used the Bartley's myself yet, but have mixed and used the oil/varnish mix.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 16, 2003 05:35am | #12

   Any wiping varnish or oil/varnish blend will warm up the wood nicely and as long as you don't apply too many coats it will have a "close to the wood" or "in the wood" look.

   There's an article about wiping varnishes and varnish/oil blends, including a list of brands to choose from, at this link - Wiping Finishes.Paul

3. 
   bill_1010 | Jul 16, 2003 05:35am | #13

   personally id use a amber shellac seal coat. then go with wiping varish then buff it down slightly with 0000 steel wool.   The real oils will give a nice warm finish

   Dont use steel wool ever if you use a water based finish...

4. 
   rodknee | Jul 16, 2003 05:44am | #14

   Hey thanks alot you all for your help, that opens my eyes to some different options.

   Thanks again, rodknee

5. 
   forestgirl | Jul 16, 2003 07:34am | #15

   Rodknee, if you want to see lots of different options, just for shellac, take a look at the color plate on this page from Homestead Finishing:

   http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/Shellaccatalog.htm

   I know, I know, we need to shut up and let you get to work!  Just had to post that link.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   rodknee | Jul 16, 2003 02:09am | #9

   sorry, sorry for no details!  For now its just disply cases and picture frames. nothing with alot of wear and tear... Thanks for all the great responces by the way!!

5. 
   carpmillwork | Jul 17, 2003 07:07am | #16

   There is a great product that i have been using for a while now.  it is Made by General Finnishes.  It is a Polyurethane that is  water based and extremely easy to use.  Brush on with a foam brush.  Only 10 minutes between coats.  WOW.  They have several different varieties including satin finish.  It is "Floor Wear Durable","UV Stablized", "Non-Yellowing", "and Water Clean-up"  You can apply with either a foam brush or a spray rig.  I dont think i will ever you another product other than this.  REALLY.  I AM HOOKED!

1. 
   DougF | Jul 17, 2003 03:48pm | #17

   I've also use the General Finishes water-based poly but I would add a word of caution: if you are using figured wood, most water-based products will not "pop" the figuring.  I just invested a lot of time and effort to discover what I am now seeing in other threads.  I think for satin/semi-gloss finishes, they are great products, particularly if they are on pieces that will not receive a lot abuse.  My experience is that they are not quite as durable as traditional lacquers.  It is also my limited expereince that you should let the finish cure at least 5 - 7 days before a final rub-out and polish. 

   Doug