Replies

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Nov 27, 2009 05:59pm | #1

   I would suggest that the type of wood - and the accompanying finish - depends primarily on the environment. (The other items in the room.)

   A complex, curly maple is probably not compatible with a start modernistic decor. A simple maple finish would not fit with Victorian companion pieces.

   Tell us more.

   Frosty

   “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
   in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.”

   Milton Friedman

1. 
   Samm90 | Nov 28, 2009 02:29am | #5

    As far as style go,  I have a few things in mind like comfort, light-not-heavy looking, can be built with solid wood, and lots of texture.... Thanks for your inputs.

   It looks like art decor style isn't it ? perhaps the curve on the table top and the round knob give more appearance of art decor style.

   ...

   Quang

2. 
   mvflaim | Nov 27, 2009 06:13pm | #2

   The straight lines and slats on the sides of the desk reminds me of a Mission piece. I would try quartersawn red oak with wrought iron hardware.

    

   http://www.mvflaim.com

1. 
   Samm90 | Nov 28, 2009 02:23am | #4

   I guess I'm not sure on what style I'm strive for.

   I was thinking about building it with solid hard wood, so thinking of using panels for the side. I suppose I can remove the stiles to reduce mission style accent.

   I was building a curve on the table thus it looks like art decor as someone mentioned in other mail.  I think the round knob getting it an art decor look.  I think of the curve for user comfort: a table top that wraps around the user would make them feel comfy.

   After I've seen all different styles on the gallery, I'm basically "saturated" and rather confused with styles . I'm not sure what's the form I'd like to go fo.   Anyway , so much with my ramblings. Thx for your suggestion.

   Any critique on style would be very welcome ?

   Thx

   Quang

   Edited 11/27/2009 6:32 pm ET by Quang

   Edited 11/27/2009 11:48 pm ET by Quang

3. 
   Napie | Nov 27, 2009 06:47pm | #3

   It would look great in walnut, but then almost everything does...

1. 
   Samm90 | Nov 28, 2009 02:31am | #6

   That sounds good.

   Quang

   Edited 11/27/2009 8:30 pm ET by Quang

4. 
   Tinkerer3 | Nov 28, 2009 05:47am | #7

   If you are concerned about basic design, something came to my mind.  What will the lower drawers be used for?  If for a file drawer, ten inches is not tall enough to hold file folders on their side.  If not for a file draw, then it is pretty high to have access for flat items placed in it.  Just a thought.

1. 
   Samm90 | Nov 28, 2009 07:44am | #8

   Good catch !

   I intend the lower drawers for hanging file folders. What should be the height for such application ?

   Thx

   Quang

   Edited 11/27/2009 11:44 pm ET by Quang

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Nov 28, 2009 05:57pm | #9

   I would suggest that any drawer for file folders be placed in the upper position.To confirm, try reaching down to an imaginary 'low' drawer and place your head so that you can read folder labels. To do so puts a 'crick' in my neck. We moved our file drawers to the upper position. Used the bottom drawer to lay things flat.
   Frosty“If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
   in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.” Milton Friedman

2. 
   Tinkerer3 | Nov 28, 2009 07:31pm | #10

   I have a couple file cabinets whose drawers are 10" high (inside measurement.)  That is a tight fit as the tabs tend to rub on the top and some times a larger item interferes with its closing.  "The file drawer in my desk has a 12"  clearance (inside measurement) probably more than necessary.  I would suggest 11" clearance for the hanging file plus an allowance for the drawer bottom, slides, clearance etc.  The drawer front is actually 13" high, is made of steel and so, like your drawing does not overlap.  I also use hanging file folders.

   Personally, I am 76 years young with an arthritic stiff neck, but can see the file tabs ok, so I would locate the file drawer on the bottom.  Maybe it's because I am used to doing it that way.

   Edited 11/28/2009 11:38 am ET by Tinkerer3

   Edited 11/28/2009 11:39 am ET by Tinkerer3

5. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 28, 2009 07:36pm | #11

   A couple of practical thoughts.

   The cylindrical knobs might look interesting if in a contrasting wood, but may not be popular with any women in the house. Too easy for the fingers to slip off, breaking a finger nail (especially on the heavy file drawer). Once that happens, you'll have to change your name to Mudd. ;-)

   Having the pedestals extend to the floor assumes a perfectly flat and level floor. Any differential in the floor may cause problems with aligning the sections, or twisting forces if the desk is pre-assembled. Shortening the pedestals, and raising them up on legs of some sort, allows easy adjustments for floor irregularities.

   I, too, prefer the file drawer on top. You'll want to select (and, possibly purchase) the hanging-file hardware in advance, however, and use that to set the actual final dimensions of the drawers. I wouldn't rely on published dimensions from the hardware manufacturer.

   I like the curved ends on the top, but the 58" width may look too square compared to the 35" depth. Commercial desks are typically 30x60 or 36x72. You don't need to follow those standards, of course, but a mock-up of cardboard or foamcore might save some disappointment.

   I also agree that wood selection and overall design style should "fit" with the other furniture in the room. Then, there's that ever-present consideration of the budget. Only you can decide on the appropriate balance between materials, style and budget.

1. 
   Samm90 | Nov 28, 2009 08:14pm | #12

   You read my mind in a way. I wanted to build my wife a desk, for the last 6 years. I'm still working on my 1 car garage shop, optimizing the layout and tools before I start building anything. I sold all my old "equipments" and start anew . I have a knack of buying the wrong equipments...I just realize my workbench needs improvement so I keep the bottom and make a new top. That will set the desk plan back for some months...  That's a good point about the round knob. I can change to an angled round knob to fix the slipperage problem or something else...

   Good point about the leg, I probably put on internal legs so it's not visible. So the pedestal might be of the ground by 1/16 or 1/8".

   It's good idea to do a mock up ...

   Thx

   Quang

    

6. 
   davcefai | Nov 29, 2009 01:24am | #13

   One suggestion. You might like to consider putting a slide-out leaf above the top drawer on one (or both) sides.

   This increases the work area when necessary - or when the desk top is too full of junk :-)

1. 
   Samm90 | Nov 29, 2009 09:13am | #14

   OK. I'll add that.

   Quang