For 38 years I searched for a perfect taper jig. You would think it would be simple but… I found it was not. I have looked at many designs and built around eight of them thinking “this may be the one”? But none was not quite what I considered perfect. What I consider perfect is a jig that can handle up to 12″ wide and 4″ thick stock. One that has extremely positive hold down on the stock.. one that keeps hands well away from the blade.. one that delivers precise cuts with no chance of slip up by the jig coming off the fence.
I just never found one that does all the above. Some met several of the requirements but always fell short of my full expectations. Even the little, cheap aluminum ones will work but.. at the expense of the jig moving off the fence or slipping on the rear stop as you guide it and ruining a piece of good stock. Maybe even one you have already cut mortises in. And they are extremely dangerous IMO as your hand is the hold-down and it comes dangerously close to the blade when tapering 2″ stock, etc. Not my personal cup of tea.
On a short trip to P’tree WW I saw the Dubby from In-line Industries. I was impressed as Dave there allowed me to take it out of the box and examine it. It was about as close to perfect as I have ever seen with the exception it rides on a miter bar which might provide a slight amount of slop. And with various thicknesses you have to unscrew the bar and move the position to another pre-drilled spot which would take several minutes. But.. this was close to perfect in my mind.
Then I saw the price of $119 and went into mild shock as I cannot justify that price even though my need for tapers will increase with project plans in the next year. So.. do I continue to cut them on my jointer (which is not my favorite thing to do) or build it to meet my criteria and eliminate the need to move the miter bar as most items I had on hand?
The world has access to the Dubby taper jig… now I have my “Dummy taper jig” as even a dummy like myself cannot make a mistake with this jig. .004 run-out on leading edge to blade.. positive hold down.. hands 16″ away from blade with no chance of the jig coming off the fence. You simply push it when set up. As I see it….. perfect for a Dummy! :>)
Sarge..
Replies
Sarge,
That looks real nice, I've bookmarked it. How about some measured drawings & a parts list?
Grant
Measured drawings....? I'm the guy who does a crude drawing in 15 minutes on a piece of furniture. I did measure the base and fence of the Dubby jig at Peachtree... looked carefully at it's design and then just changed to dimensions to suit me on the fly so to speak.
I just went down and measured it Grant... and will post those as if you look at the picture closely it is kind of self explanatory. When I saw the Dubby on-line in just a small picture.. I figured out how from just that. I was more concerned with base and fence size and if there was something I missed in the picture on-line. There wasn't so I just basically winged it.
Main base: 13 x 27 x 3/4 MDF. The width of the up-right that rides the TS fence adds 3/4" to the 13" width.
Table saw fence up-right with handles: 12 1/2 x 24.. that could be longer but I would make it no shorter considering I have a 28" wide TS table and not 27" as most 10" saws.
Fence: 3 x 31 but.. but.. I would make it 4 or 4 1/2 if I did it again which I very well may tomorrow. The extra width would give more clearing room on knobs when you slide them in the T track. I would also leave the 1/4" T track for the rear stop where it is but... move the current 3/8" T track beside it toward the front of the fence face. Then put the holes for the fence hold down toward the rear.
Again that would improve the flow of knobs when making micro adjustments as the hold downs must essentially move right and left as all pieces being tapered are not the same length. I just decided I will do that tomorrow as it will take about 30 minutes to build a new fence with slots and dadoes for the 1/4 and 3/8 T track bolts.
Any questions ask here or e-mail through the site. I will answer them as I get them considering I stay kind of busy most of the time.
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge,
Yes, that is a great design. My tapering jig is very similar in principle but much more crude. Perhaps someday I will revamp mine and give it a fence and stop. The best thing about this style of jig is that by turning over the jig, you can align your cut line which you laid out on your stock with the edge of the jig. I guess it's kind of like an upside-down Festool circular saw system.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
The one I just threw away worked similar to that but the hold downs were fixed and that was a mistake IMO. And it just couldn't do the widths of this one or thicknesses as the hold downs would just not grasp the stock to the point it could be trusted IMO.
So... here we are at last.
Regards...
Sarge..
Nice jig Sarge.
I am a little puzzled however because you got "sticker shock" at the P'tree WW asking price of $119. Your jig looks like the cost of the knobs, tracks, DeStaco clamps, plastic, hardware, (not counting your time and MDF scrap) add up to the same if not more money. Is it easier to take the shock in little doses over time as you buy the odds and ends, or was your goal to make a better version from the get go?;)
I got "sticker shock" when 6 oz. Coca Cola's in a bottle went from $.05 to $.06 around 1958, QC... ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
After your statement I went on-line and too a few WW catalogs and you are correct. If you didn't have the items on hand it would run over $70 and then your labor if you want to calculate it. I could not build the jig after purchasing the parts for $120 to sell. I am sure they use CNC equipment that can duplicate the slots easily in mass and there fence is anodized aluminum that is cast with all the slots and grooves necessary to eliminate hand cutting.
But.. $120 is more than my personal budget could afford in retirement for just a taper jig. Maybe $79.... maybe.. but not a penny more as I had everything I needed on hand as I keep hold downs.. T track.. UHMW.. knobs and the like in inventory as I build quite a few jigs. I did have to go back down to Peachtree (45 minutes round trip for me) and purchase a 3rd hold down when I decided to go with 3 instead of two as on the Dubby.
It took me around 5 1/2 hours on this one if you add the time it took to go get the additional hold down. But... I was sitting and thinking as it was done on the fly. I could probably duplicate it with all parts on hand in under 3 hours at this point as the dimensions.. design techniques.. are all known factors at this point.
To answer the question of did I have building in mind from the git-go? No.. as again if it had been around $79 (wishful thinking on my part) I would have probably just purchased it as I have a shoe rack and computer desk sitting in the wings after just finishing a coffee table.
But.. there a really no dead-lines for me so I decide to build it as I had all I needed without purchasing anything until the 3rd clamp came up. But I would have taken off the miter bar and built what I ended up with as I wanted a system I could just grab off the wall... mark the stock.. set the fence and clamp the stock at any width without re-attaching the miter bar after taking it off. The fence eliminates that adjustment as I can move the jig into any position in a matter of seconds.
Regards...
Sarge..
Edited 11/4/2008 5:07 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Nice work Sarge! Good to see you're still at it and doing well!
Kell
Thanks Kell.. at it between 4 - 10 hours a day at this point and doing as well as an old man can be expected to do. :>)
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge,
That is a great looking sled. I've been using one that was featured in FWW a couple of years ago and here are many similarities to your sled, but yours is definitely better. One tiny aspect about my sled would seem to be an advantage. My sled you cut to the narrow end (the opposite direction of yours)and, of course, the stop(wood block) is down at that end also. You can put a screw through that stop block into the base of your work piece. That screw comes in handy when your doing a 3-4 side taper, it keeps the stock steady.
You can cut to the narrow end with this one first also, BG. The entire fence moves in and out on both sides so you can attain any angle you want basically and cut them as you mentioned by simply using the trailing end moved in and the lead end out toward the blade.
It's pretty versatile and the fact that the hold downs can be moved from right to left makes it even more so. I have had one similar but with fixed hold-downs that sometimes gave problems with both short and long stock being tapered. With this method you get the most pressure where you need it on any length.
Regards and good to hear from you...
Sarge..
Wow, Sarge, that's really impressive? I'm pretty happy with my first taper jig, but if I can find a place to store your design (lol), I might go for it. A couple of questions. What are the tall black handles (next to the DeStaCo's) for?? Also, in the pic below, I think I get how most of those parts go together, but I'm somewhat mystified by the groove in the tall plywood piece on the left. Wha's that for? thanks!!!!
View Image
The tall black handles are the 3/8" threaded and mounted to 3/8" bolts coming through the base to hold down the actual fence. There are slots right to left on each side of the fence mount bolts so the jig can be angled to allow from zero to 12" stock. I used those handles to take up less space for knob flow when adjusting. As a matter of fact I will spend about 30 minutes this afternoon and do a new fence to transfer the existing hard-ware too. Instead of the current 3".. I'm going to make it 4 1/2" to allow more space so all handles and knobs clear with no obstruction.
Dis-regard the groove. I cut the dado as I was originally going to glue that piece on but.. that meant the height of the vertical TS fence rider would be permanent. I decided to make it adjustable so you can simply lift it off and use the jig on anyone's saw as the vertical is now adjustable up and down.
I simply left the groove after the fact as I wasn't going to build a new vertical and I saw no structural dis-advantage as no real force is placed on that piece.
Regards...
Sarge..
Thanks, Sarge. Certainly no problem leaving that groove there, I just couldn't envision it's purpose. Comforting that there was none!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
And just to show that you have a keen eye.. you are only the second to notice it from posting on 3 forums. I started to plug it knowing someone would ask but... decided to leave it as it certainly makes a great conversation piece. The New Orleans Saints have their Who daat.... Sarge has the What's daat! ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Regards...
Sarge.. who entertains himself quite frugally :>)
And, here I thought the groove was a cubbyhole for a marking pencil. ;-)
Great idea, Ralph. Where do I get square pencils? The one's they include with my government rice and beans supplements are all round. Well...... sorta round. :>)
Regards...
Sarge...
Do you mean you can't turn a round pencil into a square one on that jig?! ;-)
No but.... I wonder how a tapered pencil would fare on the open market? :>)
Sarge..
Sarge , great jig , I will have to make one . The cheap 19.95 aluminum one I have is what it is Cheap . My question is the support over the fence is that a nylon piece ? I guess I need to go back & re-read the post . Thanks again for showing . Gary
Thanks DT.... if you use the cheap aluminum one, be extremely careful as there is nothing to hold the stock to the forward leg except your hand. Then your hand must get very close to the blade when tapering say a 1 1/2" wide piece of stock for a leg. I threw one away years ago as I simply refuse to use one of that nature as I consider it dangerous. Any movement off the fence it rides on will ruin a good piece of stock and very well could ruin a good hand or arm.
The piece coming off the back of the vertical at 90 degrees is a piece of QS douglas fir. The piece you refer to attached to it that sits vertical and rides the TS fence face on the back side is UHMW or ultra high molecular polyurethane which I get in 4" x 48" x 3/4".. 1/2" and 1/4" to use on jigs.. fence faces.. etc. etc. Very slick stuff and easy to cut and relatively expensive. Very similar to most standard TS fence faces.
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge , I know what your saying , I have used it and it is definitely dangerous . It will get tossed in with my aluminum cans when I go to cash them in . I will try to get this jig of yours made soon . Thanks Gary
Hey Sarge,
NICE!
That looks like a real winner - I'll havta borrow it from ye.
OK, what's up with no dust collection for it!? I know, a real PITA me is.
{oooooo}
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Thanks Bob... I did some modification on my modification to tweak it yesterday afternoon. I built a 4 1/2" wide fence and re-arranged the T tracks to get the hold down track closer to the front and assure no handles or knobs obstructing each other when clamps.. fence.. stop were slid in the track to the desirable spot. I also made some new risers for the hold downs wider allowing a 2nd hold down for the clamps or one on each side. I feel solid clamping is a major key as one of the main culprits of jigs I have made over the years.
Nope... no dust collection over-head anyway.. This is my Industrial Strength jig and we ride bare-back on over-head dust. The good news is my hands never get closer than 16" to the blade. The dust mask will have to pick up the slack here.
Regards...
Sarge..
FWW in August 2005 has a dandy, too. I think that has a better hold down and guide system and handles. This is not to be critical--jigs are very personal things. Your looks a lot like it, and it too shares these common traits
--Unlimited width of work, e.g., adjustable fence over a foot or more.
--Handles for keeping the hands out of the way
--Guards to keep your hands from getting too close
--Miter Slot guides instead of fence guided system
--A Four Side Taper Attachment
--Shop Made Hold Downs
Check it out, or I can pdf a crude scanned copy of the article in b&w to anyone. Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I've probably given away the copy but... the shop hold downs do interest me for future reference. I'll try to dig up the article. Do you know the title and authour?
Regards...
Sarge..
"A Better Tapering Jig" by Richard W. Beebe II page 46 of the August issue, 2005. Regards, Scooter "I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Thanks...
Sarge..
Morning Sarge,
Ok, I've had a chance to really look at your Taper Jig, including the new one.
Now before you mount your modesty horse I think your TJ warrants an article in FWW. You have an opportunity to help all other woodworkers out here and make their lives a lot safer in the process.
Also it will give readers a glimpse into a thought process that alone is worth the price of admission. If ye don't think I'm right just show this post to your better half. She'll set you straight!
Besides, if it took you 38 years to come up with something that satisfies you then everyone else is just starting out. Just think of how much money you could save us.
Best Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 11/7/2008 5:24 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Edited 11/7/2008 5:25 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Edited 11/7/2008 5:26 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
"You have an opportunity to help all other woodworkers out here and make their lives a lot safer in the process"... Bob
I posted the pictures which are pretty much self-explanatory IMO here and on two other forums for all to see. A few looked and responded... those that weren't interested didn't even though I have gotten about 40 e-mails asking various questions on how to build it.
"Also it will give readers a glimpse into a thought process that alone is worth the price of admission"... Bob
My thought process on both safety and how to attain it has been on public display on two WW forums for over 6 years now and around 1 1/2 on another. I would rather guess if someone hasn't figured those rather frank thoughts out yet... they probably won't. I don't attempt to disclose any secret tricks or methods and I for the most part call a spade a spade. There have been a few exceptions for the sake of diplomacy.
"Now before you mount your modesty horse I think your TJ warrants an article in FWW"... Bob
I had the opportunity to meet Asa C. at the IWF Show in Atlanta when I was demonstrating Steel City machines to the public for them. I introduced myself as Sarge. The basic reply was ahhhh... we've had a few run-ins in the past. My answer was Yes... we haven't always seen eye to eye! Possibly in reference to magazine experts that measure BS tables for flatness that don't bother to put the pin in to do so.. BS's that are micro adjustable that don't get set up properly before a test that determines the guide bar is not straight when it simply needs a minor adjustment but dead-lines have to be met... riving knives that eliminate kick-back without any other additional devices... etc. etc.
Frankly.. I seriously doubt I am on a short-list of FWW candidates for popularity nor being a non-controversial character. Not a lot of need to waste a good postage stamp on what would most likely end up in waste can on that end when I have one within feet of me on my end. Wasted energy in a time when too much has already been wasted.
A spade is a spade and when you are wrong you are wrong! You should just state that up front in lieu of attempting to sweep that under a rug to avoid tarnishing a glowing image. It appears "integrity" does not have the same clout as it did when I was growing up.
So... my taper jig... which is a modified Dubby and then re-modified to give better knob and handle flow after the first attempt is now hung on a wall beside my TS ready to be used when the situation arises. I move on to a shoe rack today and a computer desk sometime next week.
No definite time lines as I take the time to answer any questions I might get on it off of e-mail or on a forum. But... I won't waste any time submitting something that will end up in a "dead-end" file as I simply don't have any time to waste chasing "ego".
Regards...
Sarge...
who will answer any possible questions submitted to me bu e-mail or PM on the TJ or anything else I could be of service with between daily shop sessions.
Edited 11/7/2008 10:41 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge... I made a taper jig out of surfaced 2X6 pine to taper my 96 inch long canopy bed legs. One time use. Cost me about 12 dollars not counting the screws, electric, and Glue!I loved yours!
Thanks Will... fortunately I had the majority of hardware and scraps on hand so mine cost me under $20 at the time. But... if I had to go out and get the hardware.. around $60-$70 would be a better ball-park figure which is not cheap.. but still a bargain IMO if you do a lot of tapers.
Regards...
Sarge..
Hey Sarge -
Great work. I also threw out one of those aluminum P's OS as the thought of what impending doom could befall my fingers made it a scary thing to even look at. I also have been looking for a taper jig for some time. If the price of that Dubby put you into shock...it seems that you paid more for yours. If you have $70 of materials in it and (I can't imagine less) it took you a few hours to make, the Dubby seems like a pretty good deal. Don't get me wrong I think yours is great, and I love making jigs myself as well. But I just wonder if you still think it is over-priced after having made yours. I frequently find when I do something like that (completely discounting the intellectual capital that went into the development of the original down to zero) I almost always end up with more into it (in time and materials) than the original would have cost. I always like mine better because I made it, but usually would have saved time, money and would have made another project by the time I was done. This is essentially a very long winded question, that Dubby actually looks like a pretty good deal now, doesn't it? I'm thinking of either buying it or making my own. BTW, they have them at a place called Peachtree Woodworking. Do you guys call EVERYTHING Peachtree down there : ).
Joe
When questioned about that earlier in a post in this thread.. I figured out that it would indeed cost around $70 if I had not had the majority of hard-ware and all the scrap wood and MDF on hand. Several weeks ago P'tree WW did have the Dubby on inter-net special for $99 which would have been reasonable considering you did not have to invest 4-5 hours labor. I could build it tomorrow in three but it cost me extra time thinking it through as I modified on the fly.
And again... the labor is the real question someone would have to answer that question with I suppose. So.. it really depends on how each individual would answer it based on their own criteria and priorities as they will vary from one person to another.
Since last October I have built a bed.. a 6 drawer chest.. a 5 drawer chest.. a BR TV table-stand.. a small entertainment center for my son and a Mission coffee table. In this case those dead-lines were already full-filled and I was ready to slow the pace so.. the 5 hours were not cutting into anything planned.
Peachtree WW is about 14 miles away from me or 15-20 minutes depending on when and what day. I believe there are over 100 streets in the Atlanta Metro area that have Peach-tree appear in them in some form and of course Peach-tree Street is a main artery that runs through the main city downtown. So yes.. a lot of peach trees as we once had in Georgia.. the Peach State.
I do believe S.C. produces more peaches and has for awhile as what was once farm-land is now technological parks.. malls.. businesses.. homes.. condo's and apartments.
The Old South is so to speak in the words of the classic novel written by Margaret Mitchell... Gone With the Wind!.. for the most part anyway. :>)
Sarge..
Edited 11/10/2008 12:36 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
sarge,
A spade is a spade and when you are wrong you are wrong! You should just state that up front in lieu of attempting to sweep that under a rug to avoid tarnishing a glowing image. It appears "integrity" does not have the same clout as it did when I was growing up.
I'm not sure what you're saying here. If you have some axe to grind with me then I suggest you email me about it as my integrity prevents me from duscussing personal matters on a public forum.
My intention was to get you to share what I consider the best Taper Jig I have seen with those who may not be fortunate enough participate here in Knots<Edit: or other forums on the Internet.>
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 11/8/2008 5:01 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Bob;
I don't think Sarge was referring to you, I think he was referencing the FWW bandsaw review and the recent safety thread.
................................................
Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
Sorry if you mid-understood the post, Bob. D. Green has nailed the referred to on the head. My rant had absolutely nothing to do with you except explain why I would probably not take the time to submit an article. The integrity in question was not yours but the powers that be.
I thought you were around during those fiasco's but maybe not. I was quite vocal after reading an article title in FWW titled "Steel City 18" Band-saw has Flaws". Then go on to read the expert had measured .018 variance in table flatness but... measured with the pin out which is a no-no. A band-saw is ground flat with the pin in and has to have it there to get an accurate reading.
Then the article stated the guide bar was not cast straight and created a bad re-saw. But.. under questioning it turns out the magazine expert pulled the saw off the crate and just cut and expertly reviewed. That BS has micro adjustment and the guide bar was straight. But.. if you don't bother to make an adjustment an assess the problem before you do a professional review... how do you get an accurate review? You don't!
Again under questioning it turns out it he had a dead-line to meet and just didn't have time to tune the saw. There is no BS that doesn't have to be tuned before you deem it "cut ready". Even most novices understand that. Latter when the truth was forced to the surface a small apology and correction appeared in the FWW letters to the editor. A tiny little piece that did not have the clout of an entire article with such a devastating.. bold title as SC BS has Flaw. Hence the sweep under the rug to not tarnish the glowing image.
At that time Steel City had just come onto the market and that title do not do much to help them introduce themselves... especially since it turned out to be bogus information. But.. if it was printed in a Fine WW magazine.. it must be the truth.. whole truth and nothing but the truth as many don't question everything they read.
I'll get off my soap-box now as that should give you a general idea of my opinion after the incident. Again... sorry you mis-understood as I thought my intent was crystal clear...
Sarge..
edit... as I was in a hurry and the original post could have been worded better for clarity...
Edited 11/9/2008 8:15 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge,
Well I must say that's a big sigh of relief here. I have a profound respect for you and your work/fun.
I wonder where those shavings came from when I went to get dressed the next day, for more fun in the woodshop.
Regards,
P.S. I still think that Taper Jig is article material no matter what.Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Well Bob.. I cannot imagine why anyone would intentionally fire a shot at someone as fun loving and diplomatic as yourself with maybe the exception of a troll who just randomly fires shots without careful aim.
P.S.. "I still think that Taper Jig is article material no matter what"
At which I will chose to just say... "Thanks.... but no thanks on attempting an article submission in this case", which would have probably been the best reply to begin with if my soap-box had not been within reach at that time. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Regards...
Sarge..
Edited 11/9/2008 10:28 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Edited 11/9/2008 10:28 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge,
It's all good ye know.
Meanwhile I'll just borrow your TJ design for the new Unisaw that should be up and runnning sometime this week. Man that sucker aint no contractors saw - she weighs a tad more!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Good saw and even better with a Shark Guard from Lee Styrone even though about a two month wait. Or you could just build one. Enjoy!
Regards...
Sarge..
I'm not sure what you're saying here. If you have some axe to grind with me then I suggest you email me about it as my integrity prevents me from duscussing personal matters on a public forum.
Whoa big guy! Somebody didn't get their medicine today, huh? ;-)
Lee
Sarge..
I was looking at your jig again and I will be using some of your ideas. No, not for a taper jig but for a router fixture.
I have several different router tables set up for various cuts/bits and for some reason I am still always looking for some way to safely hold small (or even big) parts.
Something on the order of a Coping Sled with your hold-downs/stops/knobs/etc.
Most of the wood I use has interlocking grain and is tough to route without tare-out unless using climb-cuts which can get a bit dangerous.
Your basic design with two sets of adjustable/tapering guides/hold-downs. I'll have to 'think on this a bit' but your basic design seems a great place to start from. By two sets I mean adjustable for:
1. Holding down a whatever shaped 'stick'.
2. Holding and moving the pattern. Control over the pattern will allow me to limit how deeply the bit can cut into the 'stick. The pattern will always ride the pattern bit bearing and the jig will allow advancing the stick in increments so as to 'sneak up on' cutters. I may have to drill some holes in the router table for inserting some pins that the adjustable jig 'stops' contact.
Sounds like a 'fun project'.
Besides, I'm out of money at the moment and I have all sorts of wood, knobs, hold-downs and hardware at hand. Cannot continue my two canopy bed project until I can order some bed bolts and whatever else I need.
I have jigs that work nicely when using a fence for routing but nothing for 'free-hand routing on the tables'... except my hands and a starting pin... OK, so I also use hold-down pad(s).
Post some pictures if you decide to do it. I also free-hand patterns but mounted to a 1/2" MDF template. I do have a small coping sled for end pieces but when I build knobs for drawers that are short and small, it proves to be somewhat worthless. I did build a 14" wooden jaw screw clamp I use for those little fellows. Works... but there still has to be a better way.
Good luck on the jig...
Sarge..
Sarge,
wonderful idea! I have a question: What is the max size (thickness) you can taper on the jig? Reason I ask is I have some 4 X 4 poplar blanks 43" long to taper today on the new bandsaw. I took them home to do because we could not get the blade to come up high enough on the saw at work to cut through the blanks.
Your original post mentioned tapering a 4" blank but your saw blade would have to protrude 4 3/4" from the table to cut through the stock and mdf sled. Or am I missing something?
Thanks,
Lee
A 10" TS will cut to a tad over 3". Subtract the 3/4" (and necessary to use 3/4" and not 1/2" IMO as you need the thickness to secure the T tracks) and you have 2 1/4" above the sled. So... you set the blade for 2 1/4".. add 1/16" to where you mark the stock before loading on the sled.. make the cut at 2 1/4" and simply... Flip it over!
Once all sides to be cut are done... take it to the jointer to grab the last 1/16" and any saw marks or you can use a hand plane and scraper as I do. Or if you had a 16" TS..... :>)
BTW.. I have never done anything 43" long yet... but I would make sure you field engineer something to give a taper jig support on the in-bound side of the saw. You could balance the rear end hanging forward of the table but... I wouldn't trust that to avoid a boo-boo. I have friction support on the rear and a friction support that fits in my twin vise on the work-bench that is about 42" forward of the saw. I just drop the support arm in the vise.. clamp and it extends forward to the TS.
Sarge..
Edited 11/9/2008 12:23 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge:
I was inspired by your post, since I have to taper some legs for a TV stand. So I copied your design and here is the result.
I didn't see the need for two tracks as one seemed only for the stop. Our local woodcraft only has one of every SKU so the hardware was limited by availability.
Although the all in cost is quite close to the commercial one, this was adapted for use on my slider.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
Hastings
Fantastic... I almost didn't go with the second track and was going to put dowel holes on the outer edge to use sacrificial dowels in. I just happened to have the 2nd track on hand with plenty of knobs.. etc.
With that said... where did you get those clamps? I love them but obviously don't get out often as I have not seen them before. Very sturdy and very efficient looking and your jig came out great. I suppose one could purchase a jig at not much more but... I personally enjoyed the build between projects just for a change of pace.
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge:Glad you like the jig. It performed really well so I am pleased.The clamps you saw are made by Pinnacle and can be found at Woodcraft. Item number 148486 Premium Hold Down Clamp $16.99.Hastings
Thanks... I rarely peek at a Woodcraft (WC store about 45 minutes from me) catalog as Peachtree WW'ing is about 20 minutes away and Highland WW'ing about 30 minutes. I really do like those clamps though as they exert pressure straight down without coming in at an angle before making contact as the type I used.
I may try one and if I find it more efficient for this particular situation buy another. Regardless... I can use it for something as I do the Rockler universal's that I have 4 pair of and on given days could use another. Kind of like bar clamps around my shop even though I have a ton of them.... always one short! And that's not an exaggeration... :>)
Sarge..
I couldn't find the clamps on-line at Wood-craft or the catalog but did find them on-line when I went back to this thread and got the SKU # you mentioned? Don't ask me why they don't show it in the catalog or on-line with clamps.. Maybe they want to keep them a secret? :>)
A question Hastings... it appears the hex head and bolt that secures the clamp to the track is 1/4"? Is that correct or just mis-leading in the picture? I would prefer 3/8" as I am a heavy duty kind of guy but... I suppose the hole where that bolt passes through could be drilled to take a 3/8"?
Again.. just a guess so... if it is 1/4" do you feel it has enough excess outside the stock hole to accept a 3/8" drill bit and still remain structurally sound?
Thanks...
Sarge..
Sarge:I went out to the shop and measured the "stem" that contains the 1/4" screw. The outside dimension is 7/16 so if you bored it out to take a 3/8" screw, you wouldn't have much wall.Don't you think 1/4" is sufficient? With a good "stop" the clamps only have to be strong enough to prevent sideways slippage, as the stop would take the pressure of pushing the sled through the blade.It all felt very solid once I had locked the legs down and I had no hint of movement as I pushed it through on the slider.Regards,Hastings
I went with 3/8" on the track holding the toggle clamps as toggles make contact at an angle and try to push the stock. That's why I went with 3 instead of two. But... I could use the forward track which is 1/4" that holds the stop. I could change it easily enough for that matter but would prefer to use what I already have.
The clamps you're using make contact vertically so that eliminates the momentary push that can move the stock slightly. And I could use a piece of self adhesive sand-paper on the base board as I do on my SCMS when cutting angles to counter creeping along the fence.
So.. I do think it would work since you say you have en-countered no problem as you are correct about the back stop shouldering the burden during the actual cut. I have always been one for over-kill as I just prefer to have too much than not enough even though I think that set-up is enough in this case after we compared notes.
Thanks for the foot-work checking and your in-put.
Sarge..
Edited 11/18/2008 12:17 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
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