What is Japanning? I see this in descriptions of hand planes. Don’t have a clue what it refers to…
Jumpman
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Replies
the black "paint" that protects the non machined areas of the plane.
If you have old planes that you plan to clean or restore, acetone will remove it (I found out today), so be careful with solvents. Japanning uses turpentine as the solvent and linseed oil as the binder. If it's dry and baked on, fine rubbing compound can be used to give it more gloss, according to the article I read online. Go to ww.woodcentral.com to find it.
Actually, denatured alcohol and mineral spirits dissolve japanning, too. I haven't tried lacquer thinner yet but I suspect it would work, too. Just a matter of which chemicals you want to use.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 3/2/2006 9:18 am by highfigh
So, then, it's NOT paint, but some other kind of surface finish? Hmmm. The plot thickens...;-)
It's asphaltium, a tar type product, designed to sloooooowwwwwww down oxidation.
Jeff
Apparently, Japanning is what Ford used on the Model T for paint. Like Henry said, "You can have any color you want, as long as it's black".
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Very coooooool. Amazing what you learn in woodworking....
Thanks everyone.
Jumpman
With older Stanley planes, as well as other makers I'm sure, the percentage of remaining japanning is directly related to the value of the plane, in the eyes of the dingbat collectors. For a user, you can save a ton of money by getting one with alot of it missing, and just repaint it yourself. It has absolutely no effect on the performance of the plane.
I recently purchased a Bedrock 606 which was completely sprayed with the asphaltium. I mean, the handle, frog, sole, blade, etc.....it was everywhere. It took quite a while to clean it, but underneath was quite a gem, and it has been restored to user status.
Jeff
Did you just remove the japanning where it didn't belong or strip it and redo it? I just bought another #7 (low knob, wrong frog but '02 patent dates and 1892 iron) that has a bunch of the black missing. OTOH, the original surface grinding marks are still completely visiblle on the sides, iron and sole. It's also totally flat. I placed my Sorby square on the sole and if I could see light under it, I doubt if I could put a .001 feeler gauge under it. I can't explain why it's so unused and flat, other than someone may have stopped working wood for some reason or it was lost. I also bought a #6C at the same place/same day. Someone had removed the grog adjuster screw and painted it black. Top, sides, frog, tot and knob. The tote was replaced with a new rosewood one and the knob is stained beech, but after stripping, they're beautiful. Same with the tote and knob on the #7.I don't think I'll re-japan the #7 and I'll strip the #6C before I make a decision on that one. I know the sides are evenly rusted on the #6, though.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Jim
I only removed what I needed to, which was pretty much everything except where it belonged. When I cleaned it up, I found two layers where only one should be. I didn't worry too much about it on the topside, but removed it from the frog, screws, tote and knob, etc...... Now it's one of the nicer bedrocks in my collection.
Jeff
That reverse-snobbism about painting a plane can work in the user-buyer's favor. I got my type 1 (rounded sides) bedrock 608 off the 'bay for less than $100 - I believe that the collectors left it alone because the seller had repainted it and gussied it up. No effect whatsoever on how it works - it works fantastic.
Yessir, I couldn't agree with you more. Those dang collectors can have those nice shiny gussied up ones with the perfect japanning. I'll take the cheapos that are rusty and repainted, tune em up, and make em sing for under 100 bucks any day.
My entire Bedrock set was revived from a "deshevelled planes anonymous" meeting. They were all toothless, overweight, and needed a good bath, but now they have been tuned to probably the best condition they have every been in their lives. After all, you wouldn't hire Donald Trump, and then sit him on a shelf!
Jeff
Related question. I see paste wax being used for rust prevention and assumably to slick up the surface. Is that a furniture paste wax? What about automotive wax like a pure carnuba wax? I used to use this type of was on my blued guns for the field (it tends to rain here in western WA), and I've also been using it on the cast iron tables of my tools. Should I be using something else like furniture wax? How does the Boeshield agree with wood, is it a petroleum based product? I've shied away from petroleum based products on surfaces that come into contact with wood. Am I worried for nothing?? Inquireing minds want to know!!!.....;=)
Thanks.
Jumpman
Just avoid waxes with silicon, as I've seen it asserted (and never rebutted) that it interferes with finish.
I use Boeshield on my big iron, and wax over it. I don't think it has any effect on my stock, but it keeps my tables rust-free. I've not seen anyone assert that Boeshield (or TopCote, another popular choice), used as directed, befouls the wood.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
That's interesting. Not to disagree, but why would silicon affect a finish on a tool, but it's OK for automobile paint? But, I'm no chemist, had it in high school and it was TOO HARD. So I'll take your word for it. Thanks.
Ask an auto painter how OK it is to use wax with silicone.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I like Boeshield as well, but doesn't putting pastewax over the Boeshield in effect remove it and replace it with wax? Boeshield is soluble in mineral spirits, and that is the solvent in most paste waxes.
I can't answer your question. My understanding is that Boeshield absorbs into the cast iron, in the same pores that give rust its hold. I don't wipe the wax on and then polish it off, so maybe I'm just mixing Boeshield right into the wax, which is fine too.
I picked up this protocol based on others' reports of success with it, and in my semi-heated garage, I've had no rust, even with tables left standing for over two months (injury recovery). But I can't really say it's better than other solutions, just that it's worked for me.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Speaking of injuries, how is your hand doing?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I'm still not allowed to lift more than 5 lbs with the right hand, but I've been typing for three weeks or so. I go to unrestricted status in March, but of course I'll still be regaining freedom of movement (that progress has been ongoing) and strength. No more than I deserve for being stupid, darn it, and I feel very lucky I didn't do myself a worse injury. Thanks for asking.
The only good thing about the down-time is, I was going to have down-time in my shop anyway, so I took the opportunity to sell my 6"x47 jointer to upgrade to a 8"x76. I've got a few people coming on Monday to lift that >300lb table onto the stand; then in a few weeks I'll be able to use it.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Silicon on your wood project will act much like pva glue, and not allow penetration of any finish applied, thus leaving a blotchy, discolored surface. Boeshield is user friendly for wood, and Johnson's Paste Wax, which is ancient, is good ole' furniture polish wax.
Jeff
OK, made a believer out of me!!
Now, where is that can of mineral spirits.....
Thanks.
What do you do to keep rough parts of the castings from rusting? Paste wax or clear coat? As I said, my older #7 is missing a lot of the japanning and the #6C was painted, right over the rust. The paint was still soft when I was looking at it.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Jim
I used camelia oil on the souls and sides of all my planes. It doesn't effect finishing the project I'm working on at all.
I've used Johnson's paste wax in the past, and it just doesn't last as long. As a side note, I use Boeshield on all my cast iron tops, and once or twice a month, I wax them all down with the paste wax, just to keep them slippery. I've never had an issue with rust in the new shop on anything, but I do keep 2 dehumidifiers running constantly in there in the spring, summer, and fall, when humidity is up.
BTW, I never got back to you on that source for cherry, maple, etc...... His name is Bob Jorgensen, and his email is [email protected]. The only issue I had was that his 4/4 is about 7/8, rough, and his 5/4 is 1 1/16, rough. I called him on it, and he sent me a check back for $86.00, which was the difference on 300 bf. At $2.40 a bf, it is still an excellent bargain, and he sent me all boards 10 feet long and about 8 to 9 inches wide. Great stuff for FAS.
If you get some from him, mention my name, as I told him I'd refer him to the knots community. I'm not getting anything out of it, just hoping he'll send you a few extra boards, like he did for me.
Jeff
http://www.cranialstorage.com/wood/html/japanning.html
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