Replies

1. 
   Crunk | Oct 30, 2003 12:55am | #1

   I haven't adjusted the frog position on my *metal* smoothing plane in years.

   If ever there was a 'non-issue' regarding hand planes it's how the frog adjustment is made on any particular brand.

   The most intuitive smoother - an ECE Primus (wooden plane) - has a wood wedge that's easily adjusted to close or open the mouth of the plane.  Makes way more sense than moving the damned frog on a cast iron jobby.

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 30, 2003 05:46pm | #5

   Have read some of your writings on other issues.  Thanks for taking time to comment.

   Particularly that adjusting the frog should be a non-issue.

   Would appreciate your thought on the Primus wood planes vs. metal, L-N or others.  Pros and cons. 

   Thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   Crunk | Oct 30, 2003 10:21pm | #10

   I had a detailed response typed but lost it when my connection dropped.  I'll give you a taste - I'm an avid fan of ECE stuff.

   I'll post again later.

2. 
   Floss | Oct 30, 2003 01:08am | #2

   Alan,

   The Bedrock design is such that the frog may be moved foreward or back without removing the blade. With a standard Baily design frog the blade must be removed in order to make adjustments. I can't speak for the Veritas plane but the Lie-Nielsen is an excellent choice. I have several of their planes and all are worth every penny spent and then some. I use the bronze #4 smoother practically every day for the past 2 years I have owned it and it has proven itself time and again. Lie-Nielsen tools are machined to very tight tolerances which results in tools of excellent quality for the price. Their tools come ready to work basically from the factory and will maintain their adjustments after they are set up. I had a set of Stanley Bedrocks #'s 4 through 8 and have sold all except for one in order to purchase Lie-Nielsen planes instead. As much as I liked the Bedrocks they were a bit fussy as far as fine tuning went and they were easily knocked out of adjustment, plus I was able to sell them for the same price as their Lie-Nielsen equivalents. If you use handplanes frequently you will appreciate the quality of tle Lie-Nielsen tools.

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 30, 2003 05:51pm | #6

   j.p.

   Thanks for correcting me on the bedrock vs. regular Stanley/Bailey.  I have obtained way too many Stanleys and my plans have been to clean them up (electrolysis, sharpen, etc.), sell them, and buy L-N or other excellent quality.

   Unfortunately, I am not a full time woodworker so I don't get to use them everyday.  However, when I do have time, I need to make every minute count and not spend all that time using inefficient and ineffective tools.

   Thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

3. 
   Ole | Oct 30, 2003 11:28am | #3

   You might consider Clifton planes. the Clifton frog can be adjusted without taking the blade off, saving your finetuning and settings.

   http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/clifton.htm

   Check this link for details: http://www.fine-tools.com/G303774.htm

   I've got some of them and they are great planes.

   Ole

   .... I Love the smell of sawdust in the morning....

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 30, 2003 05:52pm | #7

   ORH,

   Glad to see someone else knows about http://www.thebestthings.com.

   Excellent stuff and real good prices.

   Alan - planesaw

4. 
   Scrit | Oct 30, 2003 02:57pm | #4

   I'd agree with Boss Crunk. I rarely adjust the frog position on bench planes - granted I now have a couple of jack planes and smoothers - but even before I got to this stage I rarely changed frog position. You'll find that you tend to set-up a given plane to work in a given way - and once set it stays there - this makes for consistent planing. Changing the frog position can knock the whole thing out of kilter and you then find yourself spending valuable time messing with the settings to get it right again - not good if, like me, you make your living from wood butchery.

   My experience of L-N, Veritas and Clifton planes (I have L-N and Veritas planes and I've tried a Clifton on extended loan) is probably that they are all pretty good in their own right (especially because of the thicker irons) but that you'll pay more for the L-N because it requires less "fettling" out of the box. Other than that it's what you feel most comfortable with, and no-one can help you there

   Scrit

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Oct 30, 2003 05:55pm | #8

   Scrit,

   I appreciate hearing from someone who has had hands on experience with a variety of planes.  Thanks for pointing out the "less fettling" needed with L-N.  That is consistent with everything I have routinely heard about them. 

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   Scrit | Oct 30, 2003 06:05pm | #9

   The "less fettling" is certainly an issue for full-timers, but it is worth considering whether or not you can live with the shape of the handles and more particularly the shape of the sides. I for one find the L-N slightly more awkward to use when shooting a joint. That said I do prefer the rear tote shape on the L-N over that used by Clifton or Veritas, despite Cliftons having different angles for the handles of smoothers and longer planes (apparently because we all make shorter strokes with a smoother - nice touch). Another nice touch on Cliftons is that the longer planes (#6 and above) have lower knobs much like those found on low-knob Stanleys - the only shame is that they currently don't do either a 4-1/2 (although it is coming) or a 5-1/2. The day they do a 5-1/2, they've got my order!

   Scrit

5. 
   JeffKurtz | Nov 01, 2003 06:19pm | #11

   Alan,

   Check out Lyn Mangiameli's review's over at Traditional Tools.  As I've noted before, his reviews are without bias and comprehensive, and his knowlege of planes is unsurpassed.
   http://host65.ipowerweb.com/~traditi2/forum/article_cat.php?fldAuto=2

   Jeff

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Nov 02, 2003 12:45am | #12

   Jeff,

   Thanks.  I have added that site to my favorites list.  Good info.

   Alan