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Educated opinions please!! I am making two letter C-shaped frames with 2×3 and 2×9.5 white oak with blind mortise and tenon joints to attach the upper (2×9.5) and lower (2×3) arms to the rear vertical post (2×3), each tenon will be 3/4 thick by 2.5 long. I will store lumber on the bottom arm (foot) and build a recessed chop station into the upper arms with several full extension drawers. The two upper arms will have double 4″ tenons cut into the 2×9.5’s. A small diagonal brace will be added for additional support. My question is on the assembly of the lower arm/foot.
Should I cut the tenon on the vertical post and mortise the lower foot? OR;
Should I cut the tenon on the lower foot and mortise the vertical post?
If I mortise the post, I will raise the arm 3/4″ off the floor and put a block below the arm to support the tenon. Also, this will give the mortise in the post more strength. Conversely, if I mortise the lower foot,I will just extend the foot 3/4″ beyond the vertical post to increase the strength of the m&t. Please bear in mind this setup will store several hundred board feet on these lower feet.
Additional info: I will most likely cut posts for the front of the open C-shape for additional support since access to this lumber will only be about an hour a week, if that much.
Thanks for your suggestions.
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Over-engineered. If you are storing several hundred board feet of lumber I've got two words for you - GO VERTICAL.
*Drill some 3/4" holes in your studs. Insert lengths of 3/4" pipe. Hang wood.
*3/4" hole ... 1-1/2 inch stud ... Roof ... on floor ??maybe better ...sister 2x4 to stud, then drill hole in sister ???
*You don't drill every stud, but you made me remember i used up some old galvanized pipe i replaced with black pipe on my 1/2" clamps (O.D. is 3/4"). (I had tried using #4 rebar, but it bent too easily.) The next time i'll build a jig to cant the hole upwards a tad, or do as you suggest and drill an entirely different piece and sister it if the wall is still open. I store my pipe clamps on a similar rack, though i made it so i can unbolt it and take it with me when i move.Other than that, you rely on the drywall for shear. ;^)
*Robert, with the design you describe I would suggest cutting the mortise in the foot, and the tenon on the upright. There will be quite a bit of leverage on the joint, and you don't want it to blow out, so extend the foot several inches (not just 3/4") past the upright. Using material deeper than 3" for the upright will decrease deflection significantly. I'd use 4" or 5" stock. Probably double tenons for stock that wide. Maybe even wedged tenons.The weight on the bottom leg, as I understand it, isn't important because it's getting transferred straight to the ground, right?Seems like there was an article in FWW a few issues back describing a setup like this...might be some tips for you there.Mike
*Hey Mike, I think I will go larger on the lower foot and the upright for the additional strength. I seen the chop station in FWW but his supports for the station are built into the lumber rack. This system will give me an enormous amount of bulk storage that a 2x4 wall just could not handle.
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