Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 23, 2010 09:19am | #1

   I can't tell you the chemistry that makes the water soluble dye more light fast, and I am not at all sure that it is universally true, especially compared to NGR dyes, or dyes mixed from universal solvent concentrates. 

   I did check several MSDS for both W.D. Lockwood dyes (which are also the J.E.Moser house brand for Woodworkers Supply.) and also a sample from the TransFast dyes.   NONE of the ones I looked had reported any carcinogenic risk. 

   For hand applied dye, I MUCH prefer watersoluble powder.  Dyes in faster drying solvents are hard to avoid streaking and overlaps applied by hand.  Dyes mixed in water from  multisolvent concentrates apply similarly, but have greater problems with bleeding into top coats when they are hand applied. 

   By applying dye quite liberally, essentially saturating the wood surface   the concentration of the dye mix determines how intense the color will be on the wood, and generally gives more even coloration, less blotching, than pigment dyes which collect more heavily in areas with more porousity.  Start at the bottom and work up, so that any drips and runs occur over still wet areas and can be quickly wiped up.  Also wipe off areas of pooled dye there there are any.  If the dyed surface is too dark (and you discover this before applying a top coat or other sealer.) you can remove some color by wiping down with clear water.  You can alter the hue by working with a color wheel to add a corrective dye application.   

1. 
   sapwood | Feb 23, 2010 12:12pm | #2

   I'd like to endorse Steve's recommendation to work quickly and apply the dye liberally. I was finally able to learn this technique for myself by doing many test panels. Doing tests with different dye concentrations can give the needed confidence to know that really slopping on the dye won't make for excessive coloration. I put my dye into a plastic pail and use a sponge to apply. For large surfaces like a dining table I'll use a sponge that is dripping wet and about 4"x6" in size. Saturate the entire surface then immediately start wiping off the excess working the entire area. 

   Water dyes have the advantage of being able to be washed off. I've made dye mistakes and have simply used clean water to mostly eliminate the dye. Then reapplies with a different concentration/hue.

   Alcohol dyes, because they dry quickly, are great for touch-up. Or for lightly blending in areas that need a bit of shading. 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 23, 2010 03:10pm | #3

   Steve, I believe "aniline"

   Steve, I believe "aniline" dye is a generic name used for dyes mixed with water or alcohol.  Real aniline has not been used for many years in dyes.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 23, 2010 03:15pm | #4

   According to some tests performed by either Jeff Jewitt or Bob Flexner, there was little practical difference in long term light fastness between water or alcohol soluable dyes.

   When compared to the long term color retention of pigments stains, the light fastness of any dies were insignificant.