About those corners and other things in the way!
I use mostly wipe on finishes.. In my little workshop NO WAY to have a spray booth..
I gave up on brushes! I’m sure it me and not the brushes!
Using wipe on finishes where you do not have a flat surface.. Yes, like a ‘L’ edge or other ‘thing’ in the way of getting a smooth surface.. These edges ALWAYS gives me problems!
What do you folks do to prevent excess buildup of finish in corners and other projecting surfaces?
I THINK I have tried everything!
Replies
As much as possible, I pre-finish before assembly.
Also, I haven't tried it yet, but I'm getting some Waxilit to avoid glue squeeze-out problems.
-Steve
Will,
What Steve says but also try putting less on per wipe but using more coats.
Like Steve I try to finish parts before they go together, where possible. If you blank off joint surfaces (or even make the joint after applying the finish) you can get most of your piece pre-finished like this.
When wiping a part-only, you can splash the oil on, for example, in the recommended fashion. Once you have assembled, it is time for the many and ultra-thin coats. I wet a rag or mop with the finish then squeeze it out as hard as I can. The oily rag should then just impart a very thin coat with no squeeze or runs getting in any corners.
These thin coats are also a lot easier to rub down (as one does with oil, to avoid stickiness) as the thin coat dries quick.
Of course, I don't use varnish but the technique of thin coats may work there too - if you make the varnish as runny as an oil-based finish.
Lataxe
Thanks for the posts.I usually use a tung oil followed by wipe on polly a few days later.I get my best results using a BUNCH of clean and dry china brushes (the cheep ones which I make sure there are/is no loose hairs) and drag the oil/poly from the edges towards the center of wherever.The oil is usually no problem but sometimes the poly dries so quickly that there is a slight buildup in the 'cracks' I cannot get to before it will still flow.GOD save me from finishing!Yes I put up with the lightest coats and as many as necessary to finish. You have a magic wand to sell?
When wiping a part-only, you can splash the oil on, for example, in the recommended fashion. Not sure if I ever heard of this one! HOW?
Will,
I tend to useLiberon Finishing Oil formost ofmy projects. It's a tung oil with dryers and a varnish in it.
The instructions say basically:
* Put on a first coat thinned with white spirit or other thinner and let it soak in. This first coat is literally splooshed on with a brush so that the surface is awash with the stuff.
* Before it goes sticky (about 10 - 30 minutes, depending on the ambient atmosphere) wipe the excess away with a cotton rag to leave a smooth surface. Wait 24 hours. The result is a darkened surface but it still looks dull.
* Apply coat 2 (unthinned) in a slightly less splooshy way and wipe dry before it goes sticky.
* Repeat until you have the surface texture you want. The more coats you put on, the shinier it wll get.
If you can summon up the patience, 10 coats put on very thinly will be easier to manage than 5 coats put on in a more splooshy way (eg you can eliminate those build-ups in the corners).
More coats offers more protection from wet and heat, as the varnish builds up (but it is still very thin). You can wax on top of it eventually (give it a week to dry thoroughly). It's easy to repair if there is a mark (remove the wax from the affected area, appy ring remover if neccesary then re-oil the patch until it matches the original finish surrounding it).
Hope this helps.
Lataxe
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