What is the acceptable spacing between a drawer top and sides. It is a mission style Chest of Drawers using full extension glide with the false front attached to the drawer case. I want them to be as flush as possible so the front of the piece is uninterrupted. An overlay drawer front is not a option here. Thanks, hardel
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Replies
About 1/16th to a very weak eighth at most.
CS,
I guess that means 3/32" and that's what I use. . .
That 1/8th always looks a bit BIG and the 1/16th can get you into trouble. . . ;-)
We in the antipodes use a full 2mm, which I believe is just less than 3/32". Hell that's just about a consensus .......:-)
Hi Don,
In Sydney we were trained at 1.5 - 2mm, preferably on the skinnier side - there you go - even more consensus.
Gap depends upon your finish - if you're putting on something like three coats of two-pack, you may even need more gap
Cheers,
eddie
Good to see you around, Joe.
Depends on the time of year. In the winter, when humidity is low and the wood is at it's minimum width, you need to allow enough for expansion plus reveal. If it is summer and high humidity, the wood is at its maximum width and you can build it for the minimal clearence.
Best thing to do is to go to http://www.woodbin.com and click on the "Shrinkulator". Input the species, range of relative humidity, and initial width. The output will be expansion/contraction. Then use that number and adjust it based on where you are in the RH range.
About a dime...
tony b.
Piston close, i.e., close enough so that when you push one in, the others come out. At least, that's the rule on Japanese dressers.
Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township
An old timer's rule of thumb is: A nickel in the winter, a dime in the summer.
It depends on how wide (across the grain) they are, and how the board for the draw front is sawn. With a flat grain board, in most cases I wouldn't go over 5 or 6". You could hold a 1/16" reveal with that in almost any wood. Once you get into wider boards, you are going to want to use either rift or quarter sawn. In most cases, up to about 12", you can hold 1/16".
Look at the Mission hall table I buildtfor my son. There are closeup pictures of the drawers. I used 1/16th gap, and the way the front apron is cut you can see that I don't expect any expansion problems ... since the entire apron, including drawer fronts, is quarter sawn. All expansion should be in a way that won't cause problems.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=11503.1
John
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