accommodating movement in outdoor table
smparkes_fww
| Posted in General Discussion on
We’re looking at building a table similar to this:
https://angelamariemade.com/2016/08/farmhouse-table-diy-with-removable-legs/
It uses brackets rather than joints but we need to be able to remove the legs.
We also plan to use it outdoor (SF bay area) so it will have more temperature change than it would inside as the table in the article is intended.
We’re thinking we need to leave room between the boards for movement but really don’t like that idea since it’s a table top. Any alternatives to share?
Thanks!
Replies
Are you planning on building it how they built it (pocket screws)? If so, forget about the movement issue because that's a mechanical hold, it's going to do what it's going to do and you just have to hope that it doesn't go crazy.
If you're planning on gluing up a panel for the top then sure there's lots of ways you can attach it.
That said, it's an outdoor table, not fine furniture - which isn't to say you shouldn't make it look nice. Those are two different entities. Do you plan on taking it in out of the rain? Leaving it out all the time? There's lots of variables to take into account, but ultimately it's an outdoor table. Some space between the boards (ala picnic table) isn't the worst thing in the world. The way they built it in the article is rife for problems down the road, but then again sometimes you just get lucky.
As an outdoor table, this construction has the potential for serious problems. First, it is being built out of construction grade lumber which will have a tendency to move a lot. Second, the planks for the top are being glued together which will magnify the total movement over the width of the top. Third, the frame in the form of the aprons and cross braces will not expand or contract much. So, gluing the wide top to the underlying frame is the wrong thing to do.
To make this work, you need to put together the aprons and cross braces in such a way as to make a strong rigid frame that will be the backbone of the table. Then attach the top so that it can "float" using z clips of similar fasteners. To do this, make sure all the apron cuts are clean and square. Set your cross braces into dados for strength and rigidity. Put in additional cross braces about 12" from the end aprons.
The end apron is the biggest problem in the whole table. It should never be glued to the top because of the cross grain situation. The question is how to make it so that it will support the removable legs without fastening it to the top or being able to easily join it to the rest of the apron/frame. You might consider making secure joints with the legs so that the legs get removed as a pair. If you do this, you should consider having a second cross member farther down the leg. The best way to join these is with mortise and tenon but, you could also use a glued lap joint. You might then fasten the leg pairs to the table apron/frame using bed bolts as the corner brackets will no longer work.
There are other ways to do this as well. Just be sure to accommodate the differential movement between the top and apron/frame. Hope this helps.
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