Replies

1. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Apr 01, 2003 11:47pm | #1

   I put the Mulecab Accusquare fence on my 1953 Sears Craftsman about 4 years ago.  In my opinion, it's the best, most underrated fence on the market.  This fence was easy to mount and has maintained it's squareness without any problems at all.  I've used Unifences, Biesmeyers, etc., and think the Accusquare is a cut (pun) above them.  Even if I were to replace (unlikely)  my old (highly modified) saw, I'd keep the fence.  I would give this fence five stars for both value and performance. 

   Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

1. 
   Dalewood | Apr 02, 2003 02:18pm | #2

   Thanks Alan,   That is interesting because I too have an old Craftsman model 103.  I believe it was built in that era.  I have looked at all 3 after market fences that everyone buys and the Accusquare seems to bit a bit less expensive and you can clamp all kinds of rigs and jigs to that fence with the slots in them.  The thin cut attatchment also looks like it would work well.  Their largest fence with a 50" rip is around $230.00.  I sure appreciate the info.   

1. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Apr 02, 2003 07:26pm | #3

   The T-slots on the sides and top of the fence make this fence more versatile than any other fence on the market.Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

2. 
   mikepwagner | May 09, 2003 05:06am | #27

   Can you tell anything about the date of a Craftsman from the serial number? I am restoring my dad's old Craftsman, and it's a 103.21041. It has an 8 inch blade in it now, and I think that's the biggest it takes.

   Thanks,

   Mike

1. 
   Dalewood | May 09, 2003 03:27pm | #28

   Mike,  The Craftsman model 103 was made for Sears by King Seeley.  Most of these little saws were made anywhere from the late 40's to early 60's. In ten years or so these saws did not change much and they are very efficient when tuned up properly.  My saw will accept up to an 8-1/2" blade but it is close.  I can make  about  a 3" cut with mine.  Does your saw have seperate hand wheels for raise/lower blade and tilt or only one hand wheel?  My saw has one hand wheel that you push in or pull out to raise blade or tilt.  Great little saws.  Best of luck with yours.  They are worth restoring as the metal in these are very good.   

1. 
   mikepwagner | May 09, 2003 05:21pm | #29

   Mine has one wheel that you push in/pull out to do raise/tilt the blade.  The 3" cut sounds about right. I have vague memories of the thickest cut my dad ever made with this being a 45 degree cut of a 2 x 4 laying down. I am not even really sure that I ever saw him cut a 2 x 4 on edge.

   What do you mean by "very efficient when tuned up"? How do I go about tuning it up? 

   I have de-rusted the table, and the blade seems spin freely, and using line of sight against a mark on a board, I can't find any wobble in the saw blade. The arbor bearing seems to have been leaking at some time in the past.  Are those bearings replaceable/repairable?

   I have been looking for zero clearance inserts/splitter for this saw.  I don't currently own a jigsaw (neither a scrollsaw, which I called a "jigsaw" growing up, or a jigsaw, which I called a "sabre saw" growing up). This might be an excuse to go buy a jigsaw, but I wouldn't mind starting with a pre-made zero clearance insert.

   Evil

2. 
   Robbie | May 09, 2003 05:35pm | #30

   You also need to know which way the motor spins:  clockwise or couterclockwise.

3. 
   Dalewood | May 09, 2003 06:39pm | #32

   Mike,  Tune up is just a general term that is used on equipment.  What I would do is probably what you have done already.

   1. Remove any rust from top and clean to a nice shine.

   2. Use a car wax or paste wax on the top and buff until  your wood slides easily across it.

   3. Install a new link/Powertwist belt on your saw and it will reduce vibration up to 35 percent.

   4. If your pulleys look worn replace them with two quality machined pulleys.

   5. Check the run-out on your blade in relation to  the miter slot. Use a dial indicator and check at the front of the blade vs the back of the blade. It should be within a few thousands. (.001-.003). If it is out very much loosen the trunion bolts beneath the saw and adjust until within this range.

   6. If your fence is like mine it will not be much to be desired.  If you can afford it purchase an after market fence that uses the front rail to line up the fence.  The reason I say this is because your saw if like, mine will be 24" front to back unlike most saws today at 27".  If you buy a fence that requires both front and back rails it may not fit your saw. Some will some want.  These are just a few suggestions, not any thing that has to be done.  Hope this helps you.  Enjoy

   7.   Almost forgot. You probably have already done this but purchase on of the high quality blades such as Forrest,  Freud, etc. and you can't go wrong.

   Edited 5/9/2003 12:35:44 PM ET by Dalewood

4. 
   DBishop | May 09, 2003 06:42pm | #33

   2. Use a car wax or paste wax on the top and buff until  your wood slides easily across it. -dalewood

   Will a normal paste finishing wax (minwax for example) prevent rust and allow the peice to be finished properly then?

5. 
   Dalewood | May 09, 2003 07:31pm | #34

   Derek,  IMO, and you know how opinions are,  once the top has been cleaned and all rust removed the car wax would then protect the top from moisture, rust and other elements just as it would on the finish of the car.  I would though be sure and clean the top before I applied the wax.

6. 
   forestgirl | May 09, 2003 10:26pm | #35

   Whoa!!  Where did the car wax come from?!?  I didn't go back and read the other posts, but you do not want to put car wax on a woodworking tool table.  Furniture wax, bowling lane wax, yes. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   Edited 5/10/2003 12:48:27 AM ET by forestgirl

7. 
   AlanTurner | May 10, 2003 09:43pm | #36

   FG -- Hope you don't mind a bit of a divergent opinion from an east coaster who has always, through about 5 houses, managed to find ones with wet or humid basements.  I have used an old can of Simoniz, yellow, prob. from the 70's or maybe earlier, for 30 years on all of my cast surfaces in the shop, and have never had a problem with finishing.  I think it is tougher, and longer lasting, than the furn. waxes that I have.  I know there are stories out there, but an even thin coat, well rubbed out, has never caused me a problem.

8. 
   Robbie | May 12, 2003 05:00pm | #37

   s4s:  There seems to be a specific brand of car wax that very many Forum members have recommended.  Could be mistaken, but I recall that you are in the majority here with Simoniz. 

   Kelly Mehler also recommends a similar wax treatment in his table saw video - not sure that he specifically mentions car wax or not.

2. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Apr 02, 2003 07:33pm | #4

   I use zero clearance inserts in this saw.  I used to make my own, but I've bought 4 from Highland Tool in Atlanta, GA.  A little spendy, but well worth it.  I also have installed a 2 hp, 220V TEFC motor, with magnetic starter, 4' x 4' outfeed table, etc.  Makes for a pretty nice saw.Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

1. 
   Dalewood | Apr 02, 2003 07:46pm | #6

   My saw is a bit unusual as the motor does not mount to the bracket connected to the back of the saw. My motor is mounted independently behind the saw and it slides side to side when the blade is tilted,  whereas most motors tilt with the blade. There is enough slack in the belt that it stays on the pulley when the blade is tilted. I only have the factory insert but I plan to make some zero clearence inserts as those small pieces traped in that wide slot scare me. I am just starting out as I have just built my shop and equipping it with the necessary tools. It is a longtime dream of mine to make nice things for people in my shop.  I sure do thank you for your help  today.  

2. 
   k9s | Apr 12, 2003 07:16am | #21

   Alan--What 2 hp motor did you buy for your saw? I've been wanting to upgrade my 70's era Craftsman (the one horse won't die). Did you need to modify anything when going to 2hp?--Bruce

1. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Apr 14, 2003 05:38am | #23

   I've never added the rear fence and never thought it was necessary.  My fence hasn't moved in five years of heavy use.  I'm not sure about the brand of the motor without going out in the shop to look.  I think it might be a Dayton.  I got it from a local supplier.  All I did was put cast new cast pulleys and a 5/8" link belt on the saw.  The motor is a sealed one.  (TEFC).Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

1. 
   k9s | Apr 14, 2003 03:24pm | #24

   Thanks Alan--To be more specific, the saw calls for a 56 frame. Is that the only specification you needed to get a motor that fits regardless of hp/TEFC or open without modification?--Bruce

2. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Apr 14, 2003 05:43pm | #25

   Yes, the frame style is simply how the motor mounts on the saw.  I think 56 is a very common style.  I'd have to crawl underneath my 4'x4' outfeed table to try to read the motor plate, but I think it's a 56.  P.S.  I just checked and the motor is a Marathon, made in Wausau, Wisconsin and the frame size is a 56.

   Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

   Edited 4/14/2003 10:50:30 AM ET by AlanMikkelsen

3. 
   k9s | Apr 15, 2003 02:51am | #26

   Allan--Thanks again for the info, now if the one hp would only die.--Bruce

3. 
   forestgirl | Apr 11, 2003 07:07pm | #15

   Need feedback from those of you who've used the Accusquare.  Just ran across a post in another forum from a WWer who's not been happy with his, and am wondering if you have an idea of why he's having so much trouble.  His complaints:

   Wobbles when moved on the rails

   Fussy set-up because "you have to organize things so that the front guide clamp engages before the rear one."  Otherwise the alignment between fence and blade will be off

   Seems so different from y'all's experiences.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Rogert11 | Apr 12, 2003 03:43am | #17

   Re-read that other board post, it was referring to an Accufence, not the Accusquare fence. Two different animals.

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 12, 2003 05:24am | #19

   Ahhh, details details.  Sorry folks, screwed up on that one.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   RoyinMD | Apr 12, 2003 05:02am | #18

   Before I read Roger T's reply I was thinking we just had a really fussy user on the other forum. It all makes sense now.

   I have a confession to make, I've been using my Accusquare fence for 5 years with just the front rail installed and that thing is still strong as an ox. Installing the rear "L" rail required the extension table to the extension table to be in place and well, I ain't done that yet. Shop upgrades are in process and thats one of the top five on the list.

   Good place for a question: What do you'all think, Should I add to the existing extension table or replace it with one larger one? The TS is a 20 year old Craftsman with the sheet metal extensions.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   k9s | Apr 12, 2003 07:11am | #20

   Roy--If it ain't broke don't fix it! I have used the Accusquare on my 70's era Craftsman for about a year--love it! Made larger shop built extension tables when adding the fence for the 40 inch rails. Had to remove the spliter/blade guard bracket to clear the rear rail when tilted to 45 degrees. Keep this in mind if you decide to add back rail (I do want my spliter back).--Bruce

1. 
   RoyinMD | Apr 12, 2003 07:25am | #22

   Bruce,

   Thanks, I'll have to check that out, but I want the new range on the right side. Its only caused a few problems over the years. I tried that fence with the front rail only and got lazy.

   Enjoy, Roy

2. 
   RoyinMD | Apr 02, 2003 07:43pm | #5

   I put the Accusquare fence on my 20 year old Craftsman TS about 5 years ago. I love it, that thing is solid as a rock. It fell off my pegboard once and knicked it, but nothing a file couldn't fix.

   Whats the thin cut attachment?

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   Dalewood | Apr 02, 2003 07:50pm | #7

   From what I understand from Mule.com,  it is an accessary that clamps to the fence and allows thin sheet goods such as laminate or formica to slide under it making it efficient in cutting on the table saw.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 04, 2003 02:05am | #10

   Click here to see the "Euro"jig, which has a slot for veneer to ride in.  It also can be used as a short fence/stop, and has a double-channel for melamine that has laminate proud of the substrate.  Glad you guys are goin' on this thread.  The fence looks veeerrrrry interesting (much more interesting than my old Jet boat anchor).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   RoyinMD | Apr 04, 2003 06:30am | #12

   Thanks for the link FG,

   Checking Mule was on list of things to do after the thought/suggestion a couple of days ago. I've been using a filler board or ply against the fence for ripping thin stock because the Accusquare fence rides on the rails above the table about er' 1/8" max.. More toys to think about, hell, more toys to get. That things' neat, adds a nice level of accuracy and comfortableness, I like that.

   So this thread gots you thinking huh! Good! I friend put an Excaliber 50" (I think) on his Craftsman, I just couldn't see the extra cost after seeing the Accusquare. Terrific fence, I have some readjusting to do this spring, standard fine tune tuneup. Installation was a slow challenge and a drill press is suggested.

   I saw your comment in the other thread about the segmented drive belt. I put that and the machined pulleys on my Craftsman about 8 years ago.  Cuts the vib's bigtime. I want my vib's from the stereo's, guitars, amps and bed not the table saw! :o).

   I've been watching and reading the setting/gauge/adjusting thread too. I don't own a dial guage yet. Dang that list never stops, ain't it great.

   Enjoy, Roy

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 04, 2003 07:49pm | #14

   Hi Roy, I thought the price on that Euro jig was pretty darned reasonable!  I like being able to have a "short fence" right at hand too.

   You're right about the list never ending.  For the dial gauge, I think I'm going with one of those inexpensive models.  I've seen the same gauge priced from $49 all the way down to $19.99, magnetic base and all.  It's cheap, granted, but for set-up uses, seems like it might be just fine.  If not, it's only a few lost lattes, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Mackwood | Apr 11, 2003 09:27pm | #16

   F.G.

   You can't go wrong on a $20.00 dial indicator.  I have one, purchased from ENCO.  Seems like a different lifetime but I've had it a while.  It's more than good enough to set up wood working machines.  With that little jewel and lots of patience, it's amazing the accuracy you can achieve!

   Happy day!

   Mack

2. 
   billyg83440 | May 09, 2003 05:51pm | #31

   Hi forestgirl.

   Great recommendation. My new saw fence came with one of these. No instructions on what it was or how to use it, but I figured it out.

   If I hadn't discovered this site I'd have had no idea what a short rip fence was. But, I've used it several times for that, plus for trimming some masonite sheet. In fact, I bought some lousy 1x6's that moved every which way when you cut them. I had to get a project done or I'd have returned them. With the short rip fence I could rip them.

   Absolutely love that thing. Makes the saw much more versatile. I've also use mine for a length guide when crosscutting with the miter gauge. Just need to figure an easier way to attatch/detatch mine.

   Moral, never ever buy wood from HD. Worst wood I've ever bought anywhere.

   Later

   Billy

3. 
   CheekyMonkey | Apr 02, 2003 08:34pm | #8

   I have one on my grizzly contractor's saw. I bought it based on

   price and the 90-day money-back guarantee. It is an excellent

   product - I am more than satisfied.

1. 
   mitch | Apr 03, 2003 03:46pm | #9

   i can't be absolutely sure, but i believe forrest blades uses an accusquare fence on their demo saw at woodworking shows.  they repeatedly shave off unbelievably thin sections with their trademark polished cut face.  if it is this fence, that would say quite a lot.

   m

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 04, 2003 02:24am | #11

   Couldn't see anything on their web site that indicates how the rails attach and what drilling might be required.  What was the installation process for your Grizzly?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   CheekyMonkey | Apr 04, 2003 02:54pm | #13

   You drill holes in the rails, as needed. The rails are aluminum, so it is no big deal.