Replies

1. 
   jako17 | Jan 25, 2010 07:13pm | #1

   water

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 25, 2010 09:56pm | #2

   Why? Please go through the chemistry of this.

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 26, 2010 07:22am | #3

   Don't mean to confuse things
   Don't mean to confuse things -

   just looking for an inexpensive alternative to cure the glue instead of purchasing the solvent made for the glue.

   SA

1. 
   kentmich | Jan 26, 2010 07:45am | #4

   You don't really NEED the
   You don't really NEED the activator - it isn't like a two-part epoxy. I've used CA for years without the activator - it just takes a little longer for it to set. The advantage is that it is neater and more controlled - you get less of that white powder on your wood.

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 26, 2010 07:54am | #5

   agreed - you don't really
   agreed - you don't really need it -

   but is there a solvent that does the same thing as the activator ?

   Thanks,

   SA

2. 
   bones | Jan 26, 2010 08:34am | #6

   As others have said you really don't have to have it. It is very nice though. Also, the can I bought was not that expensive and its like bril creme (for you old timers like me), a little dab will do ya! So the can lasts a very long time.

3. 
   daddyman105 | Jan 26, 2010 01:09pm | #7

   Baking soda. Sets CA in no time flat.

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 26, 2010 01:39pm | #8

   Thanks Daddy -

   Sometimes you run out of the activator and you still need that quick set up - I'll try it out - someone also said water - don't know - ??? I'll try both -

   Regards,

   SA

4. 
   JohnWW | Jan 26, 2010 06:14pm | #9

   You aren't looking for a
   You aren't looking for a solvent. Some of the activators were based on saccharin, the artificial sweetener.

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 27, 2010 11:43am | #10

   Hello John,
   I'm not thinking
   Hello John,

   I'm not thinking - it's not a solvent -

   I see clear material and automatically think solvent -

   Thanks for the tip -

   SA

5. 
   BOBABEUI | Jan 27, 2010 03:18pm | #11

   Well not a solvent, but you can use baking soda..It really makes the thin or 'hot' CA's kickoff pretty violently, so be careful..

6. 
   BrentD | Jan 27, 2010 03:23pm | #12

   How do you apply the soda? A water solution?

   Before or after applying the glue?

1. 
   BOBABEUI | Jan 27, 2010 05:44pm | #13

   Back when I was really heavy into large scale R/C airplanes, we used to use baking soda, ah when we had a less than perfect joint. So you sprinkled the baking soda in the joint assembled the two pieces and then applied the glue the capillary action was great enough to draw in the glue, but I suppose that if the joint was open enough the reverse could work.

   I guess it is the PH change from the baking soda that is activating as a catalyst..

7. 
   floormeister | Jan 28, 2010 01:08pm | #14

   How does it cure?

   In most cases, the moisture found on any surface will initiate the curing mechanism of the cyanoacrylate. This moisture, combined with the elements of the surface creates a possible activating pH level. The higher the acid level of the surface, which equates to a pH level below 4, the slower the cure. This is due to the fact that organic acids are used as stabilizers in the manufacturing of cyanoacrylates. These acidic stabilizers are a major facilitator in keeping the cyanoacrylate in its liquid form. Cyanoacrylates are surface-insensitive formulated for bonding a wide range of similar and dissimilar materials.

   ACTIVATOR will accelerate the cure faster than moisture alone and may be the only way to create a cure on some highly acidic surfaces. Using too much ACTIVATOR will cause an exothermic reaction that will cause foaming and reduce bond strength. Using AEROSOL ACTIVATOR allows for a lighter, more even application that reduces the foaming tendency.

   Saw this article on Klingspors website,and am just finding out that water can be used as an activator.Also the reason that baking soda reacts so violently is probably because it is a base and not an acid,also certain woods will react diff. due to regions they were grown[soil+water]+ specific ph levels of that species. rob

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 28, 2010 01:29pm | #15

   Great information thankful to all - Rob great detail -

   I have a glue repair to do and was wondering what glue is best. I have to glue a metal disc onto the bottom of a sand blasted or etched surface - glass table. The metal disc has a threaded shaft that accepts a chrome leg. I'm sure 5 min epoxy would work - but when this disc fell off - it left no evidence of a prior gluing ?

   Should I use cyanoacrylate - or maybe that glue made to chemically bond acrylics to each other ?

   Thanks for any comments,

   SA

8. 
   jako17 | Jan 28, 2010 08:16pm | #16

   Epoxy will work well. I would suggest slower curing types.Make sure that you clean all surfaces with alcohol,scratch up the metal .Above all don't handle the washed surfaces before applying adhesive.I think you will get a tougher, more shock resistant bond with epoxy.lastly after all that verbage one gets back to my previous post i.e. water!!!

1. 
   floormeister | Jan 29, 2010 12:34am | #17

   I agree. you have to have some kind of mechanical bond, and the scratches will do that.alcohol will clean,but depending on the metal i would look for something that mildly reacts with that metal. the same principle that painters use to paint galv.gutters.in their case vinegar or lacquer thinner.I also agree with the slower epoxy. rob