Replies

1. 
   DCarr10760 | Sep 21, 2005 11:23pm | #1

   Personally, I'd do it with a sharp block plane and check frequently with a bevel gauge.

   But I'm Nearly Neanderthal...

   David C.

1. 
   vertis | Sep 24, 2005 06:29am | #17

   I guess that makes 2 of us.

2. 
   BG | Sep 22, 2005 02:27am | #2

   generalkael,
   Tennoning jig?...oherwise, I'd plane

3. 
   JohnWW | Sep 22, 2005 02:39am | #3

   Attach the small piece that you want to cut at an angle to a larger block of wood, there are many simple ways to do this, and then run the combination through the saw or jointer.

   John W.

4. 
   generalkael | Sep 22, 2005 02:39am | #4

   Thanks for the ideas, I was wondering if their was maybe someway of doing this with a belt or disk sander, yet remain consistant between peices. Any other ideas would be good also. The tennoning jig led me to the idea of a modified tapered leg jig with toggle clamps.

   Scott
   Slacker Extraordinaire
   Specializing in nothing but knowledge in everything.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/21/2005 7:58 pm ET by generalkael

5. 
   douglas2cats | Sep 22, 2005 05:10am | #5

   For something that small I'd make a shooting board and use a handplane. You could put wedges under the stock to tip the piece so that the desired angle projected past the edge of the shooting board. Then lay the plane on it's side and start making shavings until you're flush with the edge of the shooting board.

   Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?

6. 
   forestgirl | Sep 22, 2005 06:00am | #6

   If I were going the power tool route, I'd use a router (hmmmm, a pun; shame on me).  9 degrees?  Use a 15* router bit, make a carrier board that places the stock 6 degrees "up" -----> 9* edge.  The carrier board will solve the safey problem.  Double-stick tape.  Off you go.

   For one piece of trim, probably not worth all the trouble.  For multiple pieces, easily worth it.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

7. 
   philip | Sep 22, 2005 06:36am | #7

   Slacker, if you haven't got a plane you can't go the easiest way....

   Philip Marcou
8. 
   SawdustSteve | Sep 22, 2005 04:44pm | #8

   For something that small, how about gluing a some sandpaper to a piece of MDF and just sand the excess wood away? I don't think you will have the needed control with a belt sander, and a ROS will round off the edges too much.
   SawdustSteve

9. 
   Dave45 | Sep 22, 2005 05:02pm | #9

   I would do this by using a wider piece of 1/4" stock and ripping the 9* bevel on the table saw.  Then, set the blade to 90* and rip to width with the bevel against the fence.

10. 
    Pascanale | Sep 22, 2005 05:09pm | #10

    Definitely shooting board. Fastest, simplest for such a small piece...you did say just one piece, too, right? Take a piece of scrap stock 18" long but 4" wide and rip it at a 81 degrees. Then, crosscut in half. Mate the two together sandwiching the 1/4" piece in question between them in your vise (you've aligned their bevels all in the same plane) and then use a plane or sanding block.

    Pascanale

1. 
   generalkael | Sep 22, 2005 05:33pm | #11

   Thanks to everyone for the great ideas. I'm going to try a number of them to see what works best. The problem is that I'm going to be cutting hundreds of these boards at different angles. Last night I built a jig for my table saw with 2 toggle clamps that held the piece in place. This sort of worked, but it was difficult making sure that the opposite edge of the piece remained parallel to the blade so the work piece would be the same width on both ends. I did get a working prototype which was nice.Scott
   Slacker Extraordinaire
   Specializing in nothing but knowledge in everything.

11. 
    jimmy | Sep 22, 2005 06:52pm | #12

    Cut the bevel on an oversized piece (in both length and width) of proper thickness on the TS than rip and crosscut normally....

12. 
    johnhardy | Sep 22, 2005 08:05pm | #13

    Personally, I'd put the bevel on a larger pieice usinig the table saw and then cut that piece to size.

    John

1. 
   jimmy | Sep 23, 2005 06:07am | #14

   Looks like we're on the same page...

13. 
    jazzdogg | Sep 23, 2005 06:57am | #15

    This is a "foolproof" method we teach beginning students to obtain a precise chamfer using a hand plane:

    Set your sliding t-bevel for 9-degrees and mark the angle on both ends of your stock.

    Then use a straightedge to extend the layout lines along the length of your workpiece, making several light passes with a layout knife. This will leave you with the chamfer delineated by score lines. If the knife lines are hard to see, darken them with a sharp pencil before proceeding. 

    Secure the work between an end-vise and bench dog, and plane to the layout lines with a sharp plane. If the workpiece is too small to secure easily with a vise (and it's too late to work with a larger piece of stock and rip off the chamfered piece when you're done), a few dabs of hot-melt glue will hold the stock to the bench until you're done; then pop it off with a sharp chisel.

    Good luck,

    -Jazzdogg-

    "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

14. 
    wgsdvm | Sep 23, 2005 10:23pm | #16

    In my view, use a low angle block plane, mark out the angle on the edge of board with a pencil to give you something to follow.

    Make sure your block plane is tuned and blade is sharp first as always!!

15. 
    kesac | Sep 25, 2005 06:33am | #18

    Why notjust make another one at the angle you want?  Or glue that one to another piece, cut your angle and rip it back off.