Hi Folks
How do I go about adding 100 mm to the 4 legs of a Morris chair The legs are about 50 mm square and I need to add 100 mm to each leg to enable my wife to get in and out of the chair without help.
I have thought about dovetails or straight keys.The chairs are made of Burmese Teak
Your help will be appreciated
Rob In Mozambique
Replies
Not exactly the perfect solution but I would probably just add a piece of matching even strong contrasting specie to extend the leg using dowel joinery and maybe a big lag bolt through the bottom.
I would also use some kind of banding or detail to hide the joint.
Just thinking along the lines of "no mistakes, just added features".
Not that it was a mistake but your problem is similar to having to stretch wood due to bad stop setting.
Edited 5/8/2005 1:31 am ET by adastra
Thanks
This was a first for me will give it some more thought _ practise on some scrap first !
Cheers
Just want to make sure I did understand your question. You want to raise the height of the chair, yes? Not make the 50x50 be 150x150.If your just raising the chair then the answer I gave applies. Making "cuffs" or some type of foot would essentially make it look like a design feature. If you use the same species and a groove or banding at the joint then it is just a little detail you've added.Check out Federal style furniture, I think that sort of thing was incorporated into the table leg designs of that style.Surprised no one else has jumped in, my method is not that elegant.
Rob, Use 'riser blocks'
I'm 6'1" tall and close to 300 lbs.
Recently had to raise up my favorite chair the same way.
(A little matching stain and glides added) Now my knees don't poke me in the chest. Stein.
Pardon my ignorance what is a "riser block" ?
Rob W
Rob, They, (Riser blocks) are usually used to raise the top wheel of a bandsaw to allow cutting thicker wood with the substitution of a longer bandsaw blade.
In your case, you would remove the legs and install a block
in each of the leg's location's, then attach the legs to the bottom of the block. Not being able to see how your chair legs are attached, I can only suggest the blocks, but not which fasteners to use. Could be: brackets/threaded rod/ dowels and glue etc etc? Stein.
Edited 5/9/2005 1:58 pm ET by steinmetz
dear Rob,
I agree with adastra's simple idea. But if you want a slightly different idea, you could make the extension out of metal like brass or copper or zinc. I often make legs for tables or cabinets that are planned from the start with a metal cap on the bottom, both for protection and the added touch of a different material. Any tinsmith can make up a hollow sleeve 50 x 50 x 100 mm (outside dimensions) . Make a wooden extension the size of the inside of the sleeve that you can dowel/screw into the existing leg. A few drops of silicone will hold the sleeve in place over the wooden extension. If the sleeve is made with a bottom, then it will be waterproof as well. (You might not need this but it is a great solution for pieces that stand in bathrooms, etc.)
DR
Edited 5/9/2005 2:09 pm ET by ring
All good ideas, but the real question here is what are you doing in Mozambique (and did you bring your own Morris chair with you)?
Hi
Why did I come to Mozambique ?
Promotion - better package - desire to see another part of Africa -( it has enabled me to visit the USA with my family and now we are planning another trip at the end of the year to New England to visit my daughter who has recently started working there ) and one hell of a challenge.
When in the USA I would like to meet with other Woodworkers and LEARN more
My Morris chairs and bench was made by my late Dad in about 1920 and I have recently decided to restore them.
Ever been to Africa ?
Regards
[email protected]
Never been there, yet...
If this chair were mine, and especially where it is part of a set, and taking into account the family history, this would be my approach (which, I think, has already been suggested).
I would NOT do anything of a permanent nature, I'd make a "platform" on the idea of an HTC or other mobile base. The casters could be an option... Made of wood it would not stand out, and the chair could be returned to its designed height easily. Obviously there would need to be a "skirt" to ensure that the chair did not drop off of the raised platform. The first thought would be that the skirt would need to be on the outside of the legs, but it could just as easily be on the inside.
Whoa! Made by your Dad in the 20's?!I would maybe just make some riser blocks that looked appropriate and lag bolt them (counterbored) into the bottom of the leg. No glue and I would do whatever I could to not alter the original appearance so that they could be removed and the lag bolt holes plugged if you wanted them back in original condition. You might have to tighten them from time to time due to humidity loosening them but thats about it.Good luck.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled