I am working on a set of chess pieces and am looking for suggestions on ways to add weight to them. The pieces range from 1″ to 1.5″ in diameter, so we aren’t talking about a lot of wood movement, but there will be some, so I’m concerned about 1.) the pieces cracking in winter if the weight plug is too rigid, or 2.) the weight breaking free from the piece and rattling around during summer.
The basic idea was to use epoxy or some kind of glue mixed with lead birdshot or BBs. Do others think the epoxy will be too rigid? The walls of the chess men will be about 1/8″ thick at the thinnest point. I’ve heard the phrase “flexible epoxy” but can’t seem to find any retail product that fits that description. What about something like rubber cement? Or just yellow glue as it is more flexible?
The holes are drilled (dia. range from 3/8″ to 3/4″) and I was going to take a dremel tool and just grind into the side wall in a couple places to give a “key’d” shape so the weight plug can’t fall out.
The game pieces are made from hard maple and walnut.
Any suggestions? Am I fretting over wood movement too much here? There is a lot of carving on my design, so I’ve got a lot of hours in them and would hate to see them crack next winter when it gets really dry again.
Thanks, D.
Replies
Movement on something that small is going to be quite limited, however I see your concern.
Ever get involved with a Pinewood Derby? My grandson comes to me every year wanting to cut his new model wooden block down to shape and size. To maximize the weight (they are limited), we forstner (underneath side) some holes and glue in washers or quarters with a dab of epoxy.
"Ever get involved with a Pinewood Derby? My grandson comes to me every year wanting to cut his new model wooden block down to shape and size. To maximize the weight (they are limited), we forstner (underneath side) some holes and glue in washers or quarters with a dab of epoxy. "
My dad reloaded his own ammunition as a hobby, so I used lead bullets for ballast in my Pinewood Derby cars. I drilled holes in the sides of the car's bodies, smeared some epoxy on the bullets and pressed them in. I left the bullets sticking out to simulate exhaust pipes, I thought they looked pretty racy. :-)
That was 40 years ago; those cars are sitting on the shelf above my computer right now, and the bullets are still held firmly in place.
Probably looked pretty good, too.
dbailey,
Caulk, construction adhesive, or shoe goo all would keep the shot in place, and be flexible.
Ray
Be careful if you use a glue with a solvent, like those just mentioned, the solvent will be slow to evaporate because of it being trapped deep inside of the piece. It might, as it migrates through the wood or the exposed bottom of the pieces, damage the finish on the chess board or even the finish on the pieces themselves. Perhaps a bit of melted paraffin wax melted and poured over the shot would work.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
How about shot and hot melt (low temp.) glue?
Silicone, often used to seal aquariums. Avalible in black, white, or clear(ish). squeeze a bit into the hole, drop in shot, add shot until you like the weight, then cover with some more silicone. Trim flush, then maybe cover with a piece of felt or such.
I also thought about silicone, but it has a few disadvantages, it cures slowly when it doesn't have a lot of surface area in relation to its volume and often won't cure at all if more than 3/8" thick, and it will make finishing or refinishing the pieces very difficult. I think the idea of using a hot melt glue is a good one, but I would experiment to get the technique worked out.
John W.
"I also thought about silicone, but it has a few disadvantages, it cures slowly when it doesn't have a lot of surface area in relation to its volume and often won't cure at all if more than 3/8" thick, and it will make finishing or refinishing the pieces very difficult."With shot in it not much silicone is left in the hole. You could actually fill with shot, then just seal the opening with a little silicone. Yes, silicone can screw with a wood finish so I suggest finishing the wood before letting it anywhere near the silicone. Then only reasonable care would be needed to keep the silicone off the finished sides of each piece. Don't be spreading it with your fingers. Make a little rack to drop or slide the pieces in upside down while the adhesives cures. You'll get similar grief from any adhesive that gets on your finished or raw wood surfaces.Or screw in a stack of brass washers slightly smaller in diameter than the hole.
Forsake the shot idea. Use solid lead, available in plumbing and gutter departments and firearms dealers. Make forms for pouring molten lead into cylinders slightly smaller in diameter than your holes. That solves the shrinkage problem. Bore a hole through the center of each weight then secure the weight in place with a small gauge screw in each piece. If every microgram is important, use brass screws as they are heavier than steel. If melting and pouring sounds intimidating, you could beat the material into the shapes needed. It is extremely malleable. You could refer to your weights as "forged lead." A chisel will cut it.
If you had not already bored holes, I would have suggested backing up your chess board with a steel sheet or putting magnets beneath it. Magnets could be fastened into your chessmen also. Neodymium magnets could have a new and interesting application while making a spill a near impossibility.
Cadiddlehopper
Go to a plumbing supply store and get lead wool. Tear some off and stuff into the cavity with what ever tool works,awl, punch ect.The wool won't fall out.When you are done, cut squares of felt, either plain felt or adhesive backed and attach to bottom.
An exacto knife to trim the excess.I have turned quite a few chess sets, I use sheet lead cut with a 1/4" punch. This works well also.I use sheet lead only because I have enough laying around for another 100 chess sets.The lead wool is easier to use and faster.
mike
Thanks to all for the great suggestions....I'm leaning towards trying to work with either the lead wool or lead sheets and screw it in. I'm probably also going to experiment a little with silicon and shot in a scrap of test wood so I'll know if that really hardens up properly. I'll try to get back here with my final solution and some pictures when I'm done.
Thanks again all...D. Bailey
Bore a hole, wiggle the bit to 'flare' the upper inner area , then melt a few lead sinkers into the holes.
Quench with a damp rag. Concentrate the weight toward the bottom for a low center of gravity. Another way is to use foam double sided tape and suitable washers as noted in previous posts Steinmetz.
dbailey, Use lead bird shot mixed with silicone caulk. drill a hole in the bottom and fill with mixture. It also keeps the pieces from sliding to easy.
-lmc
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