Replies

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Mar 11, 2003 02:27pm | #1

   I just use whatever spray contact cement Grizzly sells.  Spray it on the paper only, let dry, then place on the surface.  If I get any adhesive or paper left behind after removal, I just scrape it off with a razor blade.

   Jeff

1. 
   MarkRoderick | Mar 11, 2003 02:32pm | #2

   And the paper peels right off that way?

1. 
   ChasStanford | Mar 11, 2003 02:35pm | #3

   I use Elmer's spray and Jeff is right.  The directions for the stuff I use are on the can - for a temporary bond spray and let dry or until just tacky to the touch and then press it down.  I've had the edges curl a bit, but I don't hone out near the edges of the paper anyway.

1. 
   MarkRoderick | Mar 11, 2003 03:00pm | #6

   Now Charles, I wouldn't have thought a purist like yourself would be using sandpaper. Thanks for your response.

1. 
   BG | Mar 11, 2003 04:02pm | #7

   Mark,

   The 3M is too strong..but it is what I bought also..and at a hefty price and will continue to be used.  I know this is gonna be jumped on, but I bought several sheets of glass..8x12" picture frame stuff...and use that.  I just soak the old paper off in water while I'm suing the new stuff.  I use about 3 sheets of glass for each setup..100grit-2000grit....and a total of six sheets in the system.

2. 
   MarkRoderick | Mar 11, 2003 04:07pm | #8

   Soaking it in water takes off the adhesive? I hate to admit, I never thought of that. I've been ruining the edge of a chisel taking the old stuff off, which was what promted the post. Thanks for the advice.

3. 
   AlanTurner | Mar 11, 2003 07:42pm | #9

   I got some sandpaper for sharpening, but didn't like it at all.  It was waterproof, so I just got it wet, and put in on the glass, which worked fine.  No adhesive at all.  It was based on a tip on this forum, I think.

4. 
   ChasStanford | Mar 12, 2003 02:50am | #11

   To sharpen only, of course.

2. 
   NCguy | Mar 11, 2003 02:52pm | #4

   I just spent the last week sharpening various and sundry tools, in preparation for a Michael Dunbar chair class, with the sandpaper system. He describes all in his video on “Sandpaper Sharpening” available through FW at:

    http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/014020.asp .

    I followed his suggestion an purchased a piece of 3/8 glass about 10 inches by 36 inches and attached three different grits (80, 120 and 320) adhesive backed PSA aluminum oxide in 12 inch strips. Once you get beyond the 320 grit use plain silicon carbide wet/dry sheets ( 9 X 11 cut into thirds) placed upon the 320 paper. The surface friction holds it in place nicely no adhesive needed. Hope this helps.    

1. 
   MarkRoderick | Mar 11, 2003 02:58pm | #5

   And Mike Dunbar won't let you use a honing guide, will he? I've read his pieces in FWW where he pooh-poohs honing guides. Do it by hand like a man!

   I'm joking, of course. Thanks for your suggestion. That actually makes a lot of sense.

3. 
   Wil | Mar 11, 2003 11:09pm | #10

   I use "3m Super 77" adhesive for all my sandpaper bonding (to sharpening plates, discs, blocks, etc.)  The dried/set adhesive cleans up readily with mineral spirits. 

   Another hint: To clean adhesive spray nozzles, soak the nozzle in mineral spirits, then place it (the nozzle) on a WD-40 spray can and blow it out with WD-40.

4. 
   oakgrove | Mar 12, 2003 04:25am | #12

   Mark,

   I use A product called GOO-GONE a citris based product (I think). Can be found at hardware or grocery stores. Scrape what paper you can ,apply GOO-GONE,scrape remaining adhesive with razor blade. Follow with glass cleaner your good to go!

   GOO-GONE is made to remove stickers etc from glass.

5. 
   jackiechan | Mar 12, 2003 05:21am | #13

   Mark,

   I use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive in my paper & glass sharpening set up.  To remove the paper, I just zip it off with a utility razor blade scraper - any one sided blade will do.  Skew the blade slightly, and move it quickly through the cut.  When you have the paper removed, a few fast passes on the glass will remove any adhesive that's left behind.  If you're having trouble removing the glue, it means that too much was added initially; a light misting is all that's needed.  Spray or wipe a little window cleaner with ammonia, or mineral spirits with a clean rag - this will get any tenacious residue that was left behind.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

6. 
   forestgirl | Mar 12, 2003 06:15am | #14

   The trick with the spray-on adhesives, as Jeff's alludes, is to vary the time you let it "set" before applying the sandpaper to the glass.  The less adhesion you want, the longer you wait after spraying.  If you spray it and slap it right onto the glass, it will stick very, very well, as you know.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   erich | Mar 12, 2003 09:04pm | #15

   Hey all,

        I had a thought here which by no means is original, in fact it was in a recent FWW.  I've been using wet/dry paper starting at about 220, wetting it pretty good, then it just stays on the glass by itself through surface tension.  The added benefit is that I don't get all that powdery build-up on the paper and tool as I did when I tried the paper dry.  Of course there's a down-side, that's the water that invariably gets other places than where I put it.  I think it's better than the dry way though.  I saw a cool thing on some "Scary Sharp" web page which you could probably search for on google, which used a jig and vacum attachment to suck the paper down.  Very easy.  This doesn't really adress your actual question, but maybe it'll give you another thing to try sometime. 

        I do have a side question maybe I could bring up, not to hi-jack your post or anything.  That is in regards to the Veritas jig, I seem to have trouble getting my blades and chisels to line up at a good right angle to the jig, then when I sharpen I get this skewed edge.  Anyone have any hints?

                                                     Good luck with your "sticky"situation and thanks!

                       

1. 
   Elcoholic | Mar 12, 2003 11:16pm | #16

   I use the 3M '77'.  A very light coat on the paper is all it takes.  A once over with the shop hair dryer and it'll peel right off.  The slight amount of reside left on the glass comes off easily with a single edge razor blade.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   BG | Mar 12, 2003 11:30pm | #17

   "A once over with the shop hair dryer "..does LN make one?

   PS. Don't leave yourself that open when smarty pants are lurking..lol

1. 
   Elcoholic | Mar 13, 2003 11:30pm | #20

   Nope.  It's a conair.  If L&N made one I'm sure it's be good one.  It works really well to get 3M Stikit paper to release from my pad sander too.  In all seriousness I use it a lot where a heat gun would be over kill.  Maybe I'll start a new thread.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

2. 
   plinthe | Mar 13, 2003 07:55am | #18

   I have the same problem with my Veritas honing guide. I just sharpen with my starrett handy. Check the angle of the blade before you start, put it in the angle finder and set it a little off-sqaure if necessary. Lean the blade a little toward the side with the protruding edge when you tighten the guide. Take a few strokes on the stone, and double-check the new line. It's kind of a pain, but I still use my veritas as opposed to my other guides.

   FWIW all, I lap planes with sandpaper, and the 3M stuff comes off in about 10 seconds with varsol and a paper towel (I let it dry half a minute or so and peel off the paper when finished, but I use marble, not glass)

1. 
   bill_1010 | Mar 13, 2003 06:38pm | #19

   acetone is a good adhesive remover.

1. 
   NormInFujino | Mar 14, 2003 12:17am | #21

   WD-40 and the razor blade scraper removes remainders of sandpaper and adhesive without the acetone smell.

   ". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."

   Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

2. 
   ClancysBro | Mar 14, 2003 12:23am | #22

   This sounds a little silly but it worked for me in the past -  use rubber cement.  A shop I worked at a long time ago used it all the time on disc and block sanders . Never tried it on glass but it should work ok. The rubber cement will rub off easily when changing or replacing your sandpaper.- Good luck!

7. 
   PelhamPete | Mar 14, 2003 09:33am | #23

   Hi all,

   I use 3M 77 for adhesive and a good acetone soaking along with a paint-scraper/razor and in no time at all I am good to go ... BUT, since I have taken a slightly different approach, I am finding that I don't need to change my sheets very often (I am on my 5th blade with all of the same sheets and still going strong).  What am I doing differently?  One thing- I am not skipping any grits.  With this approach all I need to do is about 40 to 60 swipes and I am onto my next grit (so I don't use up the paper in so few uses ... of course when it comes time to change them, I am looking at changing a lot more of them).  The wet-or-dry paper I use wet and, up to 220 grit, I have discovered the miracles of zirconia (and/or ceramic) abrasive sheets (definitely use it dry).  WOW!!!  The stuff just stays sharp period!  5 blades and it is still cutting as though it was brand new!!!!  Heck- I even lapped the sole of my new Stanley low angle block dead flat in probably less than 15 minutes (started at 80 grit, and stopped at 220)!  What an enormous difference the zirconia (or ceramic) makes!  Unbelievable.

   FWIW. Peter T.

8. 
   TonyBarr | Mar 15, 2003 04:03am | #24

   I just use a solid glue stick (swiped from my kid's art table).  A few strokes on the backside of the paper, stick it to the glass, press it down with a laminate roller, let it dry for about 5 minutes and your ready to go.  When it's time to replace the paper, I pull it off and scrape the glue residue with a razor.  I find this approach works well for sharpening, honing and sole flattening.  The key is to wait 5 minutes for it to dry, if you are impatient, the paper will slide on the glass.

1. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 15, 2003 04:28am | #25

   Thank you, Tony. That's the tip I've been waiting for. The first time I tried spray adhesive it came out lumpy. And the first time I tried water the sandpaper curled up. I've sharpened several tools with my right hand while holding the sandpaper down with my left hand, but that's not a very productive technique. Thanks.

9. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 15, 2003 04:36am | #26

   One problem using spray adhesive on a flat surface is that you lose the flat surface!  When I did that, I could always see places where the adhesive was a little thicker than at other places.  This becomes noticable after making a few sharpening passes.

   I found silicon w/d paper with commercially applied adhesive that was evenly applied.  I bought 100 sheets and figure that will last me till I no longer can, or want to, sharpen stuff!  I go up to 1200 grit then use rouge on belly leather for the last.

   I don't use glass either.  I use 1/4" precision aluminum plate.  I soak it in paint thinner overnight to get the old paper off.  You can buy all the precision aluminum plate you want on Ebay.  It also makes great router table inserts.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

1. 
   MarkRoderick | Mar 19, 2003 02:50pm | #27

   Thanks to all who responded. Great answers.

1. 
   dmt | Mar 19, 2003 10:59pm | #28

   Why use glue? You might try using wet-or-dry sandpaper. After it is wet, surface tension will hold it to an 8-1/2" 11" piece of 1/4" plate glassDan T.

1. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 19, 2003 11:08pm | #29

   >> After it is wet, surface tension will hold it ...

   Sometimes.

   When I tried it, my sandpaper curled up and would not stick.