Hi all!
I’ve been a woodworker all my life, taught by my Swedish carpenter grandfather who built everything from houses to cabinets and trim of all kinds. My father who learned at his dad’s knee took over my woodworking training when grandfather died. My first notable solo project was a solid body electric guitar (including the neck) made while I was in 8th grade wood shop class.
Anyhow, believe or not, I’m about to be a first time user of MDF which will serve as 2 extension table tops for both my table saw & router table.
My question is what adhesive is recommended to laminate two 3/4″ MDF sheets together to make a 1 1/2″ top for these extension tables?
In previous laminations (formica, etc) I used contact cement, except for butcherblock glues ups where I used Titebond II.
I moved to Tiebond III, but am unsure if this OK for MDF. I do not have a press or vacuum rig so clamping the laminated top will be with strongbacks.
Ken
Replies
Titebond II or III ought to work just fine for adhesion of MDF. I've used both on that material many times with quite satisfactory results. If the surfaces you're attaching are large or if the weather is hot, you'll have to scamper right along to get the adhesive spread around so you still have some open time. MDF can be thirsty.
MDF laminations
When I helped my neighbor build his general-purpose workbench top out of MDF, we used contact cement. Glopped it on from the can, and spread quickly with a short-knap paint roller.
Just be sure the bottom panel is well supported such that it is perfectly flat when you flip the top panel over and carefully lower it onto the bottom one with assistance from a helper. Then, laminate both sides with Formica (also using contace cement), and you'll be good to go.
Another good (and perhaps lighter) option would be torsion boxes with Formica surfaces. But, they are considerably more work.
Laminate
You can use construction adhesive and screws - it's going to last -
SA
Thanks for the replies!
Just goes to show how many ways to accomplish the task are acceptable.
I've never been a great fan of contact cement unless the size of the top sheet is larger than the bottom. I like to have wiggle room (just in case alignment isn't perfect) & I feel contact cement doesn't give me that. Call me fussy.
Construction adhesive has a very large number of products and I'm sure one of them would be just right for the job. I just don't know which one. I'm not crazy about putting screws into tops for the singular reason of ruining a good blade IF I felt I had to cut into the top to accomplish something. For example, when I made my traditional woodworkers workbench, the only metal in the top is the vise screws, both of which are not imbedded in the working part of the top.
Ken
Screws
you'd put the screws in from the bottom and if you had to cut away any section you still have the sight view of the counter sunk screws.
SA
>I'm not crazy <
That's what I tell everybody to.
: )
>alignment . . . perfect<
You could put two or three dowels through the two halves before dropping them in place. Point the ends for easy starting into the holes. That would pretty much align the halves. Large dowel, around half inch would be easiest to line up if the ends are pointed.
Just a thought. I haven't done this with large sheets only wooden hand plane layers.
Maybe keep the contact cement from any where near the dowels. Drill and stack the sheets so the dowels don't show or protrude through the top side of the lamination.
PS: this is how they align violin fronts and backs for various operations and final glue up.
Wiggle room
Having a bit of wiggle room is often good.
One approach to getting around the no-wiggle aspect oc contact cement is to lay several dowels across the surface once the contact cement is dry to the touch. Align the pieces, and then start removing the dowels from one end, allowing the corners at one end to make contact. That will establish a tack line at one end that will guide the rest of the surface joining as you remove the remaining dowels. Clamping guide blocks to the support surface to form corners helps, too.
Another approach is to make both pieces over-sized, and cut to final dimensions after the lamination is complete. This gets around the problem of having one piece 1/64th out of position - just enough to feel it. A Festool track saw is perfect for the trimming part.
I have also tried the dowel guide-pin approach, but found the guide pins moved just enough to thwart the desired accuracy. Your "mileage" might vary.
Questionable dowels
Oh well.
Best for small stuff.
Contact *and* Titebond
When I was coming up I worked in a shop where we used a technique using both contact and white glue for large areas that needed to be laminated but weren't going into the press.
Start by taping off the edges of faces that are being glued together with 2" masking tape (do this all around). Apply contact to the field (area in the middle/not taped off). After the contact is dried remove the masking tape and apply your woodworking glue (Titebond) to the freshly exposed edges. Flip the one piece over onto the other and press (push down/roll) the area with the contact. Then clamp around the perimeter. I'd use strongbacks (cauls) so you're not having to clamp every two/three inches.
The advantage of this is you won't get any creep along the edges (white glue/Titebond is a more permanent adhesive).
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