Replies

1. 
   whitedogstr8leg | Dec 10, 2012 10:24pm | #1

   too tight won't work.

   You want it just so the cam will snap close.     You still want the lateral lever to move, and the depth adjuster to move.     Tighten the lever cap only IF it can move around, with the cam locked down.  IF it is too tight, back off the bolt a 1/4 turn at a time, until the adjusters can just start to move. 

2. 
   michiganjack | Dec 13, 2012 01:06am | #2

   adjusting the big screw on the plane

   Thanks! I tried this on one of my better planes, and it helped a lot.

   On some of the other planes, I still have some tuning to do, but this is helping. Thanks!

3. 
   hammer1 | Dec 17, 2012 09:02am | #3

   That screw can be critical. If it's too tight, when you snap the cap cam, the screw can break out the threads in the casting. Have the blade adjusted so it's about where it will be. Place the cap on with the screw loose and the cam locked down. Then tighten the screw just firm to the cap, not tight. An additional half turn on the screw should be plenty. If the cam takes a lot of pressure, it's too tight.  When making the final blade depth adjustment, do it on the down stroke so the pin will be against the notch and planing won't push the blade back. There is always a little slop at this point.

1. 
   michiganjack | Dec 21, 2012 07:18pm | #4

   That screw can be critical

   Thanks. I think I understand. Just tight enough that the blade and chip breaker don't move when planing, but you can still adjust the blade.

4. 
   michiganjack | Dec 21, 2012 07:40pm | #5

   Throat width versus blade depth

   So now that I have the cap screw set right, I read that you adjust the gap of the throat to affect the depth of cut. I would have thought the amount the blade extends below the plane would be the way to adjust the depth of cut.

   How do you determine how wide to set the throat gap?

   Thanks!

1. 
   gdblake | Dec 22, 2012 08:49am | #6

   You thought right

   Adjusting the frog forward or back has nothing to do with the depth of cut.  On a Bailey style plane the big wheel behind the frog is the depth adjuster.  With it, you always want to back the blade out and then slowly advance it down until you are taking the thickness of shaving you want. 

   In terms of adjusting the frog forward or back to open or close up the mouth I believe the Groz plane requires you to remove the blade and slightly loosen the two screws that hold the frog to the main casting.  Then you can turn a small screw beneath the depth adjuster wheel with a screw driver to move the frog forward to close up the mouth or backward to open it.  I recommend adjusting the frog so that the bed aligns with the back edge of the mouth so as to form a single continuous ramp down the bed and through the mouth.  This allows the blade to be fully supported.  Never adjust the frog further back than this because it will force the blade to bend in the plane.  You can adjust the frog so that it is forward of the rear of the mouth making for a smaller mouth opening.  It just means the blade with not have the rear of the mouth there to help support it.  Usually that's okay if you have a truly sharp iron and are taking a very light cut.

   gdblake