Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 05, 2009 04:20am | #1

   There are a couple of ways to get the "look". Traditionally, it would not have a faceframe, such as kitchen cabinets. Instead, the face would be a structural frame, The Lumber would be oriented on edge and the bead would be formed on the pieces. They are fitted together with bridle joints. The intersection of the beads would be mitered, almost in a cope type situation.

   You could built it faceframe style, with the face on the flat, backed up by webbing. In this case, you could just apply the bead to the frame after assembly. In other cases, the bead is attached to the doors and drawers.

   Here's a couple of pictures that will, hopefully, explain it better. Excuse the dust and drawer wax. I think you can see the notch behind the small vertical drawer separator. The horizontal rail connection is the same and they connect in bridle style. To save some money, you can glue the expensive face wood to some less expensive lumber. The joint is challenging.

   I'm just starting to apply some edge bead to some drawers on another project. These are plywood faces so I decided to rabbet the bead. It could also be placed on just as a straight molding, especially on solid wood.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 05, 2009 04:31am | #2

   I'm out of picture space. See if I can clean some out.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   dperfe | Jun 05, 2009 11:36pm | #4

   hammer, I'm a little confused. What exactly is being bridled together? Are you saying that the horizontal beaded edge piece is bridled into the vertical beaded edge piece, with miters on the beads. I'm uncertain what that little notch behind the vertical drawer separator is supposed to do, or what the significance of it is. Thanks.

1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 06, 2009 04:14am | #5

   I ran out of my allotted photo space on this forum. Furniture construction can be a bit different than something like kitchen cabinets. It doesn't have to be, though. It might be easier to just use a standard faceframe and add a bead to that.If you are interested in what I was trying to show, A frame is built on edge. That is, the edge is towards the face of the cabinet. Typically it's 1"-1 1/4" thick. The beads are formed on this edge. The rails and stiles intersect and a joint is cut that allows the bead to miter in the corners. It's very similar to the way window muntins are constructed. Cutting the joints for a good fit is a bit challenging.Since I can't post anymore pictures, I can give you a link that will explain the joint better than I can in words. Look on page 158 at illustration 9. This is a window muntin. The next page 159, illustration 1 shows the type of bridle joint I'm referring to. The beaded frame edge is a combination of the muntin joint and the bridle joint. Instead of an ogee profile, as on the muntin, you have a double bead. It's edge lapped, dadoed and half mitered.This makes for a pretty strong cabinet face and things like dust panels can be incorporated into the frame. This is normally how it would be done on a piece of nice furniture. I don't know if there is a router bit available to cut the beaded profile. A shaper is often used for this with a specialized knife. Sorry if the link runs on.http://books.google.com/books?id=AHjdVVTZ9cMC&pg=PA150lpg=PA150&dq=illustration+of+furniture+joints&source=bl&ots=WLiNJsgzFe&sig=wp8DPFVs4jstqcQ07uC6daZBRis&hl=enei=PbEpSursFY2-MpPRyNgJ&sa=Xoi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9#PPA159,M1
   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   dperfe | Jun 06, 2009 05:04am | #6

   Great hammer, that helps a lot. Now i have clearer picture of the joint. And thank you floss as well.

3. 
   dperfe | Aug 28, 2009 07:50pm | #7

   Hammer, I have a question regarding the pictures you posted a couple months ago. What width for the fame rails and radius of bead do you recommend? I'm guessing in the piece shown, you used 1" with an 1/8" radius bead?thanks

   Edited 8/28/2009 12:53 pm ET by dperfe

1. 
   hammer1 | Aug 29, 2009 03:12am | #8

   The vertical frame members on that chest are 1" x 1 1/8". The horizontal are 1" x 2 1/4". The beads are 3/16" and cut with a shaper cutter. The coped miters at the junction are done on a tenon machine with a specialized cutter. They can be done with router bits but relieving the space between the beads is a challenge to get smooth and keep the junction crisp. It certainly could be scratch beaded without a relief. I've recently done some drawers with plywood fronts. I made an applied bead for those. The same could be done on a frame. I rabbetted the bead piece but it could be done as a straight piece. On these, I used 1/4" bead. I think 1/8" beads are a little fragile and more suited to smaller work, unless you are reproducing a piece where they are appropriate.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   dperfe | Aug 29, 2009 03:26am | #9

   Thanks hammer

2. 
   dperfe | Aug 30, 2009 11:20pm | #10

   Hammer, i just have a few more questions. When you said 3/16" for the bead in your previous post, you were stating radius and not diameter, correct? Also, in your picture, "Beaded frame 2.jpg" from your original post, if i'm understanding correctly, you made the bead separate, cut a rabbet on the back of the beaded piece and then attached it to the frame? If so, did you put a slight bevel on the back of the bead so that the edge of the bead would be nice and tight up against the frame piece? Lastly, in that same picture, what is the gap between the two beads? Since you said the frame piece was 1", I assume the gap is about 5/8": 1" - 3/16" - 3/16" = 5/8". This assumes that the rabbet is equal in depth to the radius of the bead.Thanks again!

1. 
   hammer1 | Aug 31, 2009 04:05pm | #11

   I made a mistake, it's the diameter, not the radius, overall width of the beads are 3/16", space in between 5/8". Bead frame 2 is a pic of one solid piece of wood. It's not built up and the beads are not separate and applied. The beads and the relief between are cut with a four sider or shaper with a special cutter. In the days before power tools, this likely would have been done by scratching. The picture in a later post was just one example of applied beads, as a possible option. There are other ways to do it. This would be a way to apply beads to faceframe style construction since it covers 3/4" easily. It's also a good way to cover and protect the veneer edge of plywood or a veneered panel. Whether you bead the drawers/doors or bead the frame, it pretty much looks the same with things closed.If I were to use applied beading on the bridle joint type construction that is shown in bead frame 2, a rabbet would have to be cut to allow the bead to sit in flush, since those pieces are 1 1/8" and 2 1/4" deep, respectively. Hope this clarifies your question.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   dperfe | Aug 31, 2009 04:20pm | #12

   Yes it does, thanks again!

2. 
   Floss | Jun 05, 2009 03:41pm | #3

   Depending on the tradition you follow the beads may be integral to the frame or added later.

   On period pieces beads were usually carved from the solid or beaded onto the parts and then mitered during assembly or a small rebate was made on the frame and the beads were glued and nailed in. Doors were usually moulded with a plane and drawer fronts had beads added, especially if they were veneered.

   Either way works.

   I have attached a few photos from a period desk that illustrates both techniques. The drawer dividers are carved from the solid since it is a block front desk, and the sides have the bead applied.

   F.