Replies

1. 
   Samson | Jan 17, 2006 06:31am | #1

   brass wire brushes for threads and corroded areas

   scotch brite type pads for the body

   400 and 600 grit sandpaper on a woo block fo the sides and sole - make sure to go in straight lines along the long axis of the plane for a neat job

   steel wool can be useful for nooks and crannies on the frog and inside bed

   Needle and flat files are useful for any work that need to be done ong the bed, the frog, ot the mouth.

   As for as lubricants - odorless mineral spirits, light oil, and evn WD40 all can help, but elbow grease is what cleans it in the end.

   I like to sand the laquer off the rosewood - allows to reshaping of the tote a bit too if yours happens to be one of the squarer types that doesn't sit int he hand as nicely as the more oval cross-section totes - and once sanded, a few coats of boiled lindsed oil.

   I'm curious why you think the latest may not be salvageable?

    

1. 
   Cheatah | Jan 17, 2006 08:39pm | #3

   Thanks for the info.

   I think this one may not be salvagable because the the sole is pitted and the opening on the sole is chipped up pretty badly. I appreciate the info. I will let everyone know how it works out.

   Thanks--

   CheatahThank you,

   Cheatah

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 17, 2006 08:52pm | #4

   What model is this plane? Pitting shouldn't matter if it's not over a huge area, like right ahead of or behind the mouth. If the mouth is dinged up and it would be open too much for fine shavings, you could grind a bit of curve into the iron and use it for rough planing. If it's a #4, #5, or #7 you might consider keeping this one for spare parts and grab another one. There are plenty out there and I have seen some beauties for not a lot of money. There are also some plane soles and other parts available on ebay.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   Cheatah | Jan 18, 2006 12:28am | #5

   Highfish--

   Your commentsare re-assuring. I am not overly experienced in tuning / restoring hand plans. It is good to hear that the pitting should not be too big of a deal. This Plan is a Stanley #5.

   I need to replace the handle and tote and I want to put in a new blade. Based on your comments I think I can get this one sing again.

   It has been fun and almost an obsession with me to re-hab this plane.  I am so anxious to get it tuned up to turn out shavings.

   Thanks again..

    

   CheatahThank you,

   Cheatah

1. 
   Samson | Jan 18, 2006 12:42am | #6

   As for pitting, think of all the "C" models that work well with grooves down the sole.  Pitting would ojnly be problematic if it was really pervasive or all the pits where localized so as to effectively make the sole incapable of registering flat.  It could also be a problem is thater was lots of it right at the mouth of the plane.

   My first restoration project was a Stanley 5 I got on eBay.  It looked okay in the dark pictures .... but when it arrived it turned out someone had rather indiscriminitely spray painted most of the plane flat black.  Turned out to be a kind of good thing, because the paint acted as a rust preventive and came off pretty easily with mineral spirits.  Under that paint was a nice old sweetheart vintage (30's) 5.  Jappaning was only about 60%, so I picked the rest of it off, and after carful masking repainted it with some industrial strength Rustoleum dark green enamel spray paint.  It came out looking very pretty.  Knob and tote were in good shape - indeed, the tote's rosewood had a really pretty grain.  I sprung for a Lie-Nielsen replacement blade.  I learned a ton about hand planes in cleaning and fettling that first one.  There's nothing like restoring a tool to working condition that gives it life and makes it a little part of your woodworking soul.    It's till one of my favorite planes to use and does a terrific job on most everything I ask of it.

2. 
   highfigh | Jan 18, 2006 03:12am | #7

   As I posted last night, look up the Planewood site if you need parts. His totes and knobs are really nice and he has some other parts. I haven't rehabbed very many planes myself, but I have cleaned up metal parts, sharpened various edged tools and maintain my own machines unless there's welding or milling involved. For those, I go to a machine shop nearby. The sole on my #4 was relatively flat but not exactly and it needed some TLC and sharpening. I didn't expect it to cut quite as well as it does, though. My #7 had a pretty deep worn area down the middle and with the emery cloth, it didn't take much time. That one has a laminated iron and should hold an edge longer than the #4, but the smoother did really well last week when I cleaned up the edges on my kitchen cabinet door stiles and rails. I also bought an old #80 scraper (Sweetheart with quite a bit of wear) and a couple of little #75 rabbet planes, but I suspect that a #90, 92, 93 or 94 will be more useful since they all have a removable nose piece. That makes them into small chisel planes and for cleaning up glue squeezeout and corners, they'll be very nice. I just cleaned the #75's up as soon an I got them (today) and they turned out pretty nice. I haven't gotten the scrub plane yet, but that's going to need some work, too.OK, OK, I'm an addict!
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   JohnWW | Jan 19, 2006 01:57am | #8

   There are so many of the common planes out there that are in good condition, needing just some light restoration, that restoring a plane with a pitted sole, chipped mouth, needing a blade, tote, and front handle is really a waste of time, especially since the mouth will never be fully repairable. 

   You would be better off saving this plane for parts and waiting for a better one to come along.  Any weekend spent searching tag sales, or going to flea markets and antique/junk stores would turn up a several planes in better shape at reasonable prices.

   John W.

2. 
   highfigh | Jan 17, 2006 07:16am | #2

   I started with soap water and an old toothbrush, after taking it apart. Dry it off, then go after it with mineral spirits. If it isn't water soluable, it'll be either disolved by petrochemicals or alcohol. I wouldn't use anything too abrasive on the japanning, since it is just paint. Brass brushes definitely clean without removing steel or iron. Lemon juice can clean the brass parts. Once it's clean, you can get into the setup phase. I have a 12"x12" granite floor tile as a flattening surface, and for the initial work, I bought some emery cloth sheets, made by 3M. Once the sole is flat, I change to 220 grit silicon carbide. I do the emery cloth on the sole and the top of the frog, where the iron lays. If the chip breaker needs work, I'll start with 220 grit and go to 600. The iron is usually started with 220 grit unless it's really bad and needs to be straightened and squared up. Then, I start with emery cloth to save time, going to 220, 600, 1200 and finally 1500 or 2000 grit. I got the $13.95 honing guide from Woodcraft and it works for plane irons, scrapers (like my #80) and chisels. It squares the ends and if you want to add a slight curve to the iron, you can, by rocking it on the paper.

   If there is heavy rust, it can be removed successfully. There is also someone here who refurbs handplanes. His business is called Planewood and if you do a search here and type Mike and Katy, it'll take you to the threads with his info and link.

   MIKE- ARE YOU THERE?

   There are some good books about planes- how to maintain/set them up, use and improve them. Look for them on the Taunton, Lee Valley, Lie- Nielsen or Woodcraft sites and stores.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   
   

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   Edited 1/16/2006 11:19 pm by highfigh