Replies

1. 
   silver | Oct 03, 2005 05:24am | #1

   Just my opinion but the proper blade will give you a flawless cut on melamine

   without the attachment. Probably don't want to hear that now... 

   best of luck,

   silver

1. 
   Ralfk | Oct 04, 2005 06:04pm | #4

   So what blades have you had good luck with on cutting melamine or veneered panels? I do have a whole set of Forrest sawblades, and they work great, but I still do get tearout with their Duraline Hi At blade, which is supposed to be for that. I should probably make a new throat plate. I've got a good one on the saw, but it is a little worn now.

1. 
   RickL | Oct 04, 2005 06:23pm | #5

   I'd have the Duraline blade checked out. In one shop I worked at we had great luck with it. It was the only blade out like it at the time. We could get one kitchen of melamine out of a sharpening. I took out the zero clearance throat plate for the heck of it and still no chip out.

   Have you called Modulus? Used to work for a dealer and it does work as it's supposed to. We had a demo model and we actually had the inventor in our store. In the 8 years I worked there don't recall selling any of the units. I've used scoring blades on different saws but the best results were on a Giben beam saw where the work was held in place with the beam. Typically scoring blades are conical (tapered) or split (straight).  The split are the best on most saws as you can leave the scoring blade up higher. If the panel isn't flat it tends to ride up higher than the tapered blade and you get chip out.

2. 
   Segil | Oct 03, 2005 01:38pm | #2

   Ralfk,

        If you have a large plywood job to produce on the saw now,  Take the darn thing off the saw.  Get the correct type of blade, and make several new hardwood throat plates for the TS.  Even a good scoring saw set-up isn't a cure-all for tearout.  This will get you thru the upcoming job, and you can always fiddle with the thing afterwards.  Good Luck.

1. 
   Ralfk | Oct 04, 2005 05:59pm | #3

   Thanks for the advice. I do have a whole assortment of Forrest sawblades, which by the way are incredible. But even with the Duraline Hi At blade I get some minimal tear out intermitently. And I do have a good aftermarket throat plate. But it is a bit worn, a little wider than the blade. I've been meaning to make a new set. I did manage to get the blade in the scoring unit cranked up high enough, but the scoring saw blade is still below the table top.

3. 
   mudman | Oct 04, 2005 07:16pm | #6

   It is very rare that I have a plywood part that will the edges showing on both sides. Are these door panels going to be set in a frame? or is it just a piece of plywood mounted on hinges? Obviously if the ply is to be inset into a frame the tearout is not a concern.

   If you are using a good blade and a decient throat plate than I would blame the cheep plywood. I have bought crap plywood from home depot that would splinter no matter what. However premium quality ply has thicker veneers and better glue (I guess). If you really want  perfection you have to score cut with a knife then cut right up to it. It is a Major PITA.

   I have also been interested that scoring attatchment, your experiences are enlightening. Check on Woodnet http://www.forums.woodnet.net there are a lot of "gadget guys" there I bet someone there has used it.

   Good luck,

   Mike