I need a straight edge, and have looked at Lee Valley and Woodcraft. My first question: should I go with steel or aluminum? Also, any experience with any of these straight edges, or can you recommend another brand?
Thanks
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Replies
What do you plane to use it for? If machine set up, that aluminum one would work. If more for marking (or marking as well as set up) steel might be a better choice as it can tolerate a marking knife.
>> What do you plane to use it for?A good question. I use a 48" Stanley aluminum level. I checked it against a known standard and it was within 0.001" over it's whole length. More than good enough for machine alignment and drawing straight lines. Plus, it a good level for it's intended purpose.Howie.........
I have the Lee Valley 38" aluminum straight edge. It is easy to grip because of it's shape and is accurate enough for use in setting up woodworking machines. I keep it in the cardboard tube it came in when not in use as an aluminum straight edge is more easily damaged than a steel straight edge.
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steel or aluminum?
I have some old aluminum thing I use to cut sheet Plywood. Years old and still stright enough for my old 'skill' saw so the parts still come out Ok on the Table Saw...
Be sure to search straight edges here in the knot posts.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Check these out. http://eagleamerica.com/precision-steel-straight-edges/p/424-2012/ I was impressed with the quality.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Thank you for the webpage.
I will be using it for general stuff, like checking the flatness of my bench, the soles of planes, the flatness of my float glass. I don't have any electrical machines that I need to use it on.I just saw an old Starrett on eBay. I might try to get a used one.
One thing about the Lee Valley straight edges I really like is the wide bottom edge that enables you to stand it up. Even the aluminum ones have some weight to them too. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have some 6' and 8' pieces of aluminum, 1", square tube and 1.5" angle stock that I use for alignment work. I got them from the hardware store for ~$8 each. I'm sure that they wouldn't meet machine shop standards, but they work just fine for setting up my planer, joiner, and saw tables. I've also used them for making torsion boxes.
To keep them straight, I hang them from finish nails in a stud bay when they aren't being used.
I've got the woodcraft steel 24" that I've had for a long time. I've been happy with it. I've checked it against other straits and It's good. I guess you only know if your sure the edge your checking it with is good. Take care of it avoid dropping it and you should be fine. I had a funny episode with my strait over the weekend. I was checking my TS extension table and noticed my TS top had suddenly developed a noticable dip. Happened to run my hand down the edge of the steel and felt a bump. Upon close check, I had a spot of shellac on the edge somehow. Carefully removed with a razor blade and bam the top suddenly was flat again. Too funny. Wood Peckers sells some real nice ones, but more expensive that the woodcraft one I got.
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And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I have a 12" and 36" LV Steel straight edges. For WW, the aluminum is fine. However, aluminum is only accurate to .003". This can cause headaches for machine setup.
If I were to buy only one, I would get a 36" steel one.
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