Advice regarding a homebrew tung oil sealer/finish similar to Waterlox Original Finish
nickelplate767
| Posted in Finishing on
I would like to try making my own tung oil based varnish. My favorite over-the-counter finish is Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. I have used it for many years on all kinds of woodworking projects and just like the appearance and durability. Before I jump in and try this homebrew recipe I thought I’d see if this looks reasonable:
1/3 Mineral Spirits (something like Klean Strip Odorless Mineral Spirits).
1/3 Rust-Oleum Varathane 242186H Oil Based Urethane Spar Varnish.
1/3 Pure Tung Oil (something like Hope’s Pure Tung Oil).
Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you can give me on this.
Replies
Sounds like a great plan. However, you might want to add a small quantity of "tongue of bird" and "eye of newt". Or, you could go for broke and reinvent the wheel instead...
I thought there would be others here who make their own finishes & they could comment on that particular formula. I'm new to this forum so if I asked a dumb question I apologize. I just enjoy making things from scratch. Even my hand tools. I'd like to tinker around a bit and tailor a woodworking finish to best fit my needs - but I wanted a viable starting recipe that had characteristics similar to Waterlox Original.
All joking aside, as others have noted, your formula is typical. Like you I have found Waterlox hard to beat. I guess I subscribe to the adage " If it isn't broke then there is no need to fix it".
However, if you want to play, here is a good source for pure tung oil:
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/pure-tung-chinawood/
They also sell a citrus solvent which works as a thinner, and it smells good which is a nice plus. I have used it to thin the oil for a pure tung oil finish and it works nicely. Not sure how it would work in an oil/varnish blend but would be worth a try.
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/citrus-solvent/
Thanks, I'll definitely look into those two products. I realize I'm a nut about this stuff. My kids tease me because my saying has been "we could make that" ourselves. They just roll their eyes when I say it. We don't even buy our computers. For at least 25 years I've made ours. Our furniture, even the tools I work with to make stuff I sometimes make myself. It's a sickness :-)
Lol. I was thinking the exact same thing.
Not an expert. But my understanding is that, despite what they imply, Waterlox is not a mix of tung oil and varnish, it is a wiping varnish made with tung oil. That is, varnish is made when you heat a resin with an oil. What you're describing is more akin to danish oil, a mix of BLO and varnish. Someone correct me if wrong.
It is a penetrating wiping varnish. It penetrates deep into the wood fibers to create a water barrier. It is a durable finish but remains flexible. I used it on the White Oak kitchen table in our home and it has stood up to the inevitable liquids that get on it and the wear and tear of daily family use. I've used it for many years on all kinds of woodworking projects. Even my entire hanger of handmade wood hand planes were finished with it.
As to "why" I would want to make my own version of finish - well, I like to make things. My own woodworking tools (I make the tools I use to make things), work benches (I have 3), furniture, a number of guitars over the years... even our own electronics (including our family computers the past 25 years or so). I like making stuff. In this particular case I thought I might enjoy playing around with the homebrew recipe a bit to tailor it to what I most like in a finish.
Is making stuff harder than buying stuff? Sure. But I have always enjoyed making things anyway. LOL, don't you folks enjoy making things from scratch? I'm new to this forum (this is my first post here). Sorry if I asked a dumb question.
As I understand it, you are right in that it is a wiping varnish type finish. And I like that. It is easy to apply. It is difficult for me to get Waterlox here in my town. I can order it, and I have many times. But it would be convenient to make something similar from components that I can get in town here, anytime I need it.
Is ther a target...more durable, longer working time, better leveling, or just making life harder?
Probably the latter, making life harder. I'm looking for a starting recipe that I can experiment with a bit to tailor it's characteristics to what I like best. The best off-the-shelf finish that I like is Waterlox Original - so I'm hoping to get as close to that for my initial homebrew and work from there.
I like a penetrating wiping finish that is protective of the wood and resists water damage. Our White Oak kitchen table has a Waterlox Original finish and it is durable and holds up well to liquid spills. I like a finish that I can re-coat after simply a light sanding of the original finish like the Waterlox.
I thought the oil spar varnish in that recipe might make an even more durable finish. Oh, and one thing I forgot to mention is that I can't buy Waterlox in my area. It takes awhile to get it shipped to where I live. I can get those recipe ingredients here in town - anytime - and that would be very convenient.
This is exactly my recipie for Danish oil, except I use linseed oil but tung oil is going to be as good if not better.
Thanks, that is pretty much the "look" that I like. I think I'll give it a go then, but with the pure tung oil. Here's a picture of the finish look I like. I just finished using Waterlox Original on a matched set of four wood hand planes that I built using old Stanley parts I had. You can see here how it looks on White Oak and Walnut. LOL, I do use this finish on everything. It will be mighty nice to not have to order my finish but just mix ingredients I can get here in my town. Hey thanks for taking the time to help me. I appreciate it a lot.
One third thinner, one third oil, one third varnish is one of the most common variations out there. Some use different kinds of oils, or different kinds of varnish, or different thinners.
If you like to experiment, have fun. I would absolutely practice on scrap before you try something new on a project.
I wouldn't worry about trying to replicate Waterlox. Waterloo Original is not even Original. They've changed the formula at least a couple of times over the years to comply with changing VOC regulations.
Myself, I dislike experimenting with finish. I found something I like, and I find no need to deviate. But this is a hobby, and you should do whatever gives you the most satisfaction.
Nice looking planes, Hock irons?
Any issues with the beds staying flat on the longer ones?
You are right, those are all Hock irons and chip breakers. The beds so far have stayed flat but I figure I can easily check them for flatness and re-flatten them if ever needed (and they probably will from time to time). But I remind myself that woodworkers have used wood bodied hand planes for many centuries - and produced some of the finest furniture ever made... far better than I will ever make.
I was fanatical making sure every part of the construction was square and true. It took me several weeks to complete all 4 planes... building a tool like a hand plane was more challenging for me than the furniture I've built over the past several years. There were days I had to just "get away" from the project for a day or two. I wanted a set of planes that were as good as my Lie-Nielsens and vintage Stanleys. Also, regarding the wood, I was extremely careful choosing the sole wood, in hopes that it would be more stable. It's tight grain quartersawn White Oak with the grain oriented vertically to the sole base. I do believe it will have some movement, but I can easily and quickly true them up anytime that's needed.
These planes are pure joy to use. They are not as heavy as my iron planes (about half the weight). The set of 4 planes are: a 9.5" scrub plane, a 17.25" fore plane, a 24.5" jointer and a 9.75" smoother. The totes are tailored to my hand and are so much more comfortable than my vintage Stanleys and my Lie-Nielsens (although I like 'em all). I do like Hock's irons/breakers. He custom made one of the irons for me. The other 3 are stock Hocks. He seems like a really nice guy. Making this set of planes was a lot more work than I thought it would be, but the end result is worth it. There is tremendous satisfaction using tools you made yourself. Maybe some day my son, or even grandchildren, will use these tools. It's worth making stuff like this... at least I think so. I think making my own wood finish will feel just as good. Yes, I'm weird, but that's how I'm wired :-)
What you're suggesting might make a decent wiping varnish, but it won't be Waterlox. Waterlox is a phenolic resin varnish. They don't advertise that fact, but Flexner said he spoke to their chemists and they confirmed it.
I think you should give your formula a shot and see if you like it. Let us know how it turns out.
This 1:1:1 mixture of oil, varnish, and thinner is as old as time (even older than me). Many years ago, the mixture was 1 part linseed oil, 1 part varnish, and one part thinner (probably turpentine). This was before polyurethane was even dreamed of. Today I don't think you can't even find varnish made of natural resins. But, mixtures of linseed oil, polyurethane, and paint thinner work just fine. If you want a lighter color you can substitute pure tung oil for the linseed oil. You can also add some japan drier if you want to shorten the drying time of your mix. You can also use turpentine instead of paint thinner. I think it smells better. Also, I have read uncomplimentary things about "odorless" paint thinner (no personal experience). So, you might want to do some experimenting with that.
I have used this mix several times of furniture pieces that I've made and I like it. It won't be quite as durable as polyurethane or maybe Waterlox. So, for tops that may require it, you may consider using just poly on the top.
I have found that application is best in very thin coats applied with a small square of folded blue shop towel.
That is VERY helpful information. i will use turpentine then, for my first attempt at this. Also that is good info about the tung oil giving a bit lighter color... I definitely like that.
I'm curious. The Waterlox Original can be re-coated easily if the finish does wear over time needing a refresh. You just clean the surface and put a new coat on to refresh the finish. Do you think this homebrew recipe will be like that too? Thanks a ton for your helpful info. I deeply appreciate it. This is why I posted the recipe here. I was hoping to get input like this.
If you use poly, you will need to sand it evenly before applying a refresher coat. That's why proponents of this kind of finish recommend using a spar varnish that doesn't have poly. There are still some out there but you need to look at the ingredients on the can.
That is excellent info too. One non-poly possibility would be Epifanes Clear Spar Varnish. It is a bit pricey but when you consider it's only 1/3 of the end-product, I guess that's not too bad. The product itself sounds incredibly good. I would pair this with the Real Milk Paint, Pure Tung Oil & also Jasco Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine. The actual cost would come out to $30/quart, but you'd end up with 3-quarts of product. That's not bad at all if the finish is truly top quality. And I'll bet it could be. It's worth trying anyway.
I have had some unpleasant experiences with "odorless" paint thinner. Simply written, I have zero intentions to use it in the future. I have used 1:1:1 mixture. It took many "coats" to even begin building a finish.
After hearing the comments about "odorless" paint thinner, I'm thinking I may try the turpentine instead.
Regarding the multiple coats, I know it's not for everyone, but I'm okay with that if the end product is satisfactory.
If "build" is a concern, you can change the ratio of the mix to have more poly or varnish in it. This will build the finish more rapidly. There is nothing critical about the 1:1:1 ratio. 2:1:1 or other works as well.
While the “odorless” paint thinner is adequate for cleaning out brushes, it has a milky opacity that muddies the color of stains and clear finishes. I plan on trying some form of this home brew for Waterlox as the oil based formula is unavailable in California due to the VOC regulations. I used a combo of pure tung oil and citrus solvent from the Real Milk Paint Co. for sealing a walnut butcher block counter. Took multiple coats and wet sanding the final finish, but has been a durable and easily renewed finish for over 10 years.
I will, as usual, differ a little from the rest.
The 1:1:1 ratio is what most people use but it has far too much oil in it than necessary. After the first coat, the varnish portion of the formula effectively seals the wood, not allowing any further penetration in subsequent coats. This is why most "danish oil' directions instruct you to saturate fully until the wood can absorb no more, Or use a wet-on-wet application method.
More often than not, any second coat, being nothing more than a thinned oil/varnish blend, where the oil can't penetrate, becomes a simple wiping varnish where the majority of it remains on the rag,
The oil portion doesn't need to be more an 10% to get proper results.
Many think, that by mixing their own that they'll save money and it will be better than store bought, this is seldom true.
Generally speaking, most store bought Danish Oil finishes have somewhere in the neighborhood of 60-75% solvent (or more), leaving very little room for oil and varnish/resins, Yet somehow they still work just fine. Adding more oil than necessary makes the mixture thicker, which increases the drying time and does not increase the amount of oil absorbed by the wood. Adding too much varnish and you've almost eliminated the ability for a second coat to penetrate if the first coat has dried.
Face it, the 1:1:1 mixture is easy to remember and hard to screw up, this is why it's lasted so long. It may provide satisfactory results but uses too much oil and too much varnish, making it just as expensive, if not more than store bought with no better results. Remember, the wood will only absorb what it can, when it can absorb no more, anything after that is by definition a top coat. Then your just wiping on oily varnish with no penetration.
Don't believe me, that's fine Ask the experts like Bob Flexner, Jeff Jewitt, or Michael Dresdner. I think they'll give you a similar answer.
I agree that you won't save money doing a homebrew.
1/3 Epifanes Clear (non-poly) Spar Varnish
1/3 Real Milk Paint, Pure Tung Oil
1/3 Jasco Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine
The cost was $89.00 for these three (each was one quart).
Three quarts of Waterlox costs me $86.00. So I'm paying a few dollars more than if I just bought three quarts of Waterlox Original.
I'll have to start with a base recipe and adjust as needed from there. So I'll begin with the 1:1:1 but if I want to get different results then I can try adjusting the recipe in future batches. I'm just going to have fun with this. I'm not expecting to make some holy grail finish that's better than the Waterlox recipe that has been manufactured for well over a century now (and I do like it a lot). I just like tinkering with stuff like this. I think that's one reason why I enjoy woodworking so much. I can buy a nice furniture piece, but I enjoy making my own.
Thanks for the information. It was helpful.
Today I came across an article that pointed out (I think) what you are telling me in your post. It recommends using more solvent in the first two coats... just a wiping varnish that penetrates and seals the wood. Then in the additional coats it uses less solvent because the wood is already sealed at this point and these coats are topcoats of thicker finish (more varnish). You are building the finish at this point but it is not penetrating the wood.
I may try doing something like this. Use a higher percentage of solvent in the first two coats, and then use less solvent in subsequent coats. Here's the article... it is talking about a wiping varnish made with only varnish and solvent. But I wouldn't this also have some application to a three part finish (solvent, varnish and tung oil). What do you think?
https://myoldmasters.com/tutorial/shop-made-wiping-varnish
Okay, after absorbing all of this input, here's what I'm thinking may be best for the 1:1:1 recipe. I priced this out and it would end up costing ~$30/quart for a batch of 3 quarts.
1/3 Epifanes Clear (non-poly) Spar Varnish
1/3 Real Milk Paint, Pure Tung Oil
1/3 Jasco Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine
EDIT 8/10/21
I just bought these three ingredients. I'll report back when I've used them to let you know how it went. LOL, now I have to build something to use it on... and I have an idea for an old school turning saw... can't wait to get started :-)
The Nickle Plate Road used 4-8-4s, among others. Who made the 7-6-7s?
“[Deleted]”
Okay, here's what worked best for me:
1/4 Epifanes Clear (non-poly) Spar Varnish
1/4 Real Milk Paint, Pure Tung Oil
1/2 Jasco Pure Gum Spirits Turpentine
This has some similarities and some differences than Waterlox Original but I like it a lot. I like it better than Waterlox. It is similar in application. I use a brush for both and let the wood soak in as much as it will take. Both provide an even finish - even on soft pine as a sealer. Both really soak into the wood to seal it. Both seem about the same viscosity and not too thick or thin. You could use either of them as a wiping varnish type finish. It provides a low-gloss finish that I love, but you can build it up to a higher gloss finish. I knock off the gloss on Waterlox Original because I prefer the low-sheen look. But that's just me.
Here are a few things about the homebrew that I like it better than the Waterlox. The pure gum turpentine gives a much more pleasant odor than Waterlox. I really like the fresh pine tree scent once it dries (obviously it's way strong when applying, just like Waterlox is). The recipe yields 4 quarts, a full gallon. The cost to make this was $99 a gallon, which comes to ~$25 a quart. It's not cheap but my last quart of Waterlox Original cost me $38.48 for a quart. So it's actually a bit cheaper to make... I wasn't expecting that because it is made with excellent quality ingredients. Also the homebrew is not as yellowing as the Waterlox can be. It does darken the wood like Waterlox but it is not as dark.
I'll post a photo of a handmade wood plane I finished with Waterlox Original, and a scrap piece of the same White Oak that was used to make the plane - but finished with the homebrew finish. You can see that the Waterlox is a darker finish. On some light woods the Waterlox is more yellow while the homebrew is lighter color.
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