My old air compressor finally died and I’m shopping for a new one. Currently have my eye on the Campell Hausfeld 7HP/60 gallon upright cast iron compressor from Grizzley. With a 11.8/10.3 CFM at 40/90PSI and the same price as the Craftsman Prof. which delivers 9.6/9.0 at the same respective pressures the CH seems to be a better value. The CH is oil lubbed while the Craftsman is oil-less. One thing I’m not clear about are the pros & cons between oil-less and oil lubbed. I don’t do a great deal of spray work but do on occasion use a DeVilbiss gun for spraying the cabinets and doors/millwork for the house we’re renovating. Don’t use air tools except for the very infrequent use of an impact wrench.
Provided I deal with the potential of oil in the line from the compressor, are there any concerns about using an oil lubbed compressor for woodworking? I’ve been told that a cast iron oil lubbed compressor has a longer service life than oil-less.
Lastly, would it be of any advantage to put the old compressor tank (15gal capacity) in line with the new one for added air capacity?
Thanks for any comments….
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Replies
Dennis,
You are right that the basic difference is that a oiled compressor will last longer, as long as you change the oil as specified and maintain the proper level. None of that is a big deal. Oiled compressors also run a lot quieter, that is huge for me. As you mentioned with oiled compressors you must deal with the misted oil in the lines; don't skimp here get good filters and cleaners. As far as ganging the two compressors... that seams like trying to get more speed out of a heavy dutry truck by adding a lawnmower engine. You should not need any more air than tat unit can make.
Mike
Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply. I did a little more research on oil-less compressors and I'm certain they will *not* be my choice due to the noise issue.With respect to duty cycle, I suspect on my budget and with the amount of use it will get the lesser C/H system (lesser than a true 'industrial' level piece of equipment) will more than likely suffice. I will definitely take a close look at the warranty issue none the less - since I'm buying (or will most likely buy) from Grizzley, I'll be sure to determine if they or C/H will be standing behind (or is it in front of?? -grin-) the warranty.Understand the plumbing thing - air lines need to be graded not unlike plumbing waste lines to deal with condensation. Here in NW Washington we know from wet! (haha) I'll be running a supply line along and above the trusses of the shop with some drops here and there with condensate traps at the bottom of each one. Thanks for the tip on configuring the outlets pointing up .... a fine point I hadn't considered.All air piping will be black iron............
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Dennis, I'm pretty sure the compressor you're looking at is the same as my husky, just with a different paint job. If it is then don't expect it to be that quite. The way they've managed to pump out more air is by decreasing the size of the pulley on the pump so the pistons move quickly and put out more air, as well as more noise. It is by far the loudest oil lube compressor I've ever heard. Other than the noise I've got no complaints.
Thanks for the reply, Andrew ...Since my initial search/research I've looked at some 'high'-er end compressors, namely Ingersol Rand (IR). Their specs are much more impressive, as well as the price tags! What is hard to understand in all this is that the Grizzley touts a 7hp motor with la-te-da psi and CFM while the IR compressor is only 5hp and higher PSI and CFM. The more one tries to get information to make an educated purchase, the more one gets confused! Maybe I'd be better off just making a nice bellows arrangement! (grin)...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Dennis, it's not a real 7 hp compressor. I calculated the real hp to be about 4.4. Probably a little less due to inefficiencies. I bought this compressor well aware of that fact. Not suprisingly, the guy that sold it to me didn't (HD employee), so he ended up learning a few new things that day.
The selling point for me was that it was rated in SCFM, and claimed a 100% duty cycle. A few more calculations showed that the SCFM rating was fairly accurate, unlike the inflated hp rating. I had thought about a larger two stage compressor, but I was a little cramped for space, and in the end I couldn't justify the extra money and space. The most important thing is to figure out how much compressor you're going to need, and go from there.
Andrew (and Jako) -
Yeah, the "peak" HP rating is usually posted somewhere in the advert. One web site I checked out actually stated the so-called peak HP *and* the 'running' HP, the latter being roughly a little over half the peak HP for each model listed on the site.
My compressor needs aren't that great at the moment. In fact, blowing up a tire on my wife's wheel barrow now and then, the occasional spray job on a cabinet or door, .... somewhat casual for the time being. However once I've found over the years that no sooner do I have a tool of one sort or the other do I find other things I'd like to use it for. And almost without fail if I hadn't considered that prospect, the tool is inadequate.
I also like to do some metal working and have tried sand blasting with the smaller, low CFM compressor I had, that died and that I'm looking to replace. So the higher CFM ratings are what I'm looking at. Thus I'm pleased to learn that you found the rating on this particular model to be within an acceptable range of accurate, Andrew.
Another thing that really surprises me is that on the Air Compressors Direct web site they list the C/H VT6275, the compressor I'm currently considering at $700 retail, discounted $120 as a direct discount for a total of $580. That same model both in the Grizzley catalog and at their on line store lists $429. I certainly won't argue with the Grizzley price but it's amazing that they can sell it at such a deep discount. Must be a super high volume.....
Sales that is. (grin)
...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
FYI -
most of the lower-price big compressors you see for sale are CH units. The Husky line at Home Depot, and the line at Lowe's, are from CH.
I recently got one at Lowe's that's single-stage, but 2 cylinder. Its SCFM rating is high enough to run things like sanders, but it's cheaper than a 2-stage.
I figure for my home shop, CH quality if fine. If I was making a living with it, I could justify something like an Ingersoll-Rand, but I don't use mine all day, every day.
BTW, with an oiled compressor it's important to follow the startup and breakin procedures outlined in the manual.
Dennis:
When I installed our compressor at ChromaColour we used sweated copper for lines (rust was a real concern in a photo lab) -- but we were working at relatively low psi.
All lines had a water trap at each use-point, they were drained on ####daily basis at the start of the day. Oil was a concern, but never had a problem with it.
IIRC, we had a Campbell Hausfield oil unit, it did very well for us.
Regards,
Leon Jester, Roanoke VA
Q: How do you know when a politician is lying?
A: His lips are moving.
Thanks for the reply, Leon
...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
The oil in the airlines from an oil bath compressor is not even worth talking about. It stays in the sump of the compressor and any oil that gets above the piston rings is not measurable. A year of steady running a compressor will not show any noticable change of the oil level in the sump. Been working in shops with heavy air use and your use should not even tax the system. http://www.tptools.com has a pdf file on how to plumb an air system. That's the biggest mistake people make...not learning how to set it up properly. It's nothing like adding a water line for a sink. The rules are different and learn the proper way to run the lines.
I've never seen an oil filter on any system. I've seen oil misters before a crucial machine to keep air pistons lubed. T connections for drops are to be positioned with the drop pointing up and then dropping down. The main pipe is pitched to send any water to the end or begining of the system. On a small sytem I'd pitch the line back to the tank. That way you only drain one thing. If you get fancy and add an auto drain you only need one.
Be sure to check out the decible level on the compressor. Some of them can be real screamers and you have to really dig to find this out.
You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Personally I think that Campell Hausfeld is not a brand that I would prefer to buy. My cousin bought one and it was a POS. The pump seized after a couple of months and Campell Hausfeld wouldn't warranty it.
I bought a C'AIRE air compressor a couple of years ago and couldn't be happier with it. At the time I didn't have a choice about what to buy, I was in the middle of painting a plane. It is industrial duty, the motor is rated at 100% duty. Most of the compressors that you can buy the motors are rated at 20-30% duty.
Going with the oil lube is a good idea if you want a compressor that is going to last. Just remember that you need to change that oil once in a while. I have two sets of hoses that I use. One set gets used for almost everything and the other set only sees filtered, dry air used for finishing.
Look carefully at any compressor that your are considering. What is the operating pressure? 95 or 150 psi? aluminum or copper windings in the motor? pumps come in all types of qualities. Some are cast iron and some are aluminum. Some have bearings and others have sleeve or none. Some have sight windows to check the oil. Check the guards mine has one made of heavy gauge steel some are plastic.
Hi Dennis
Do a search over on breaktime about C-H, Husky and I-R .Sometime ago there was disscussion about them overstating the hp of the motors(a lot of these models are the same but different paint).In fact I believe that they were being sued! Apparently they now have the words peak (in tiny letters )beside hp.This is the power developed at stalling under load which is completly useless to most users.As far as I can remember !hp is about 740w so how come 6.5 draws such low running amps.Similar claims have been made for routers for years!
I want to personally congratulate you on this very positive step to fine woodworking.
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