Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 08, 2005 11:19pm | #1

   Ya forgot about the outhouse!

2. 
   mapleman | Jul 09, 2005 04:42am | #2

   Brian,

   I'm sure you mentioned this before, but how big is your shop? I have a 30X40 insulated metal building and am looking at putting in the same type of air conditioner.

   Thanks,

   Lee

1. 
   brianmexico | Jul 09, 2005 09:24pm | #3

   Birdseye,

   My shop is 18' wide by 24' long and has a 9' - 10' ceiling. The 12,000 btu unit worked very well for my smaller shop. If you Google "air conditioning calculator" you'll get some great hits to figure out the btu's for your specific shop. I was going to buy the 15,000 btu unit but after looking over several different calculators all said about 12,000, so I saved myself a few bucks and I've got a nice cool shop.

   Word of advice, if your metal shop has metal doors that receive any direct sunlight they turn into a hot plate real fast. I have one large metal sliding door and I'm going to have to do something to insulate a little better.

   Good Luck,

   Brian

1. 
   CJH | Jul 11, 2005 11:29pm | #4

   "I have one large metal sliding door and I'm going to have to do something to insulate a little better."Brian,Does this door need to be insulated to maintain winter heat or just block summer heat? From your previous post I gather it's the latter, so...Buy some of that insulation that looks like bubble-wrap covered with aluminum foil. The most common brand in my area is Reflectix. It has a low R value but is a potent radiant heat blocker - the type of heat you are dealing with from the metal door.Use some of the foil-tape to attach this loosely to the inside of the metal door. Cover it as best you can without interfering with how the door slides.I have not used these products in the exact application as you describe but I'm confident it will work. Also, unlike foil-covered insulation board, this stuff does not need to be covered with a fire-rated product.If your door has several recessed areas you should not press the insulation down so that it's flush with the door. In fact a bit of an air space between the door and the foil will increase its efficiency. I've gone as far to add furring strips to create this air-space. I'm not sure if that's practical for your situation or not.If you need insulation to maintain winter heat you might need to take a slightly different approach. What part of the country are you in and what sort of exposure does this sliding door have? East, north, etc...

   Edited 7/11/2005 4:41 pm ET by Chris

1. 
   brianmexico | Jul 13, 2005 08:07pm | #6

   Chris,

   My shop is close to Cabo San Lucas in Mexico so it's reeeaaally hot here. My door is a slider that slides very close to the wall and it has no room between the two surfaces to put in insulation so I'm going to build an interior door and use the steel door as a security door only.

   Thanks for the ideas with the insulation, I can use this technique on a different door that I have in the shop.

   Brian

1. 
   CJH | Jul 13, 2005 10:21pm | #10

   When you build the secondary door be sure to include an insulation with a foil-face and be sure to have a 1/2" air space between the front of the door and the foil face.Since this will likely be an enclosed door you might just as well use the foil-covered poly-iso. Depends on what's readily available in Mexico.

3. 
   bones | Jul 13, 2005 05:40pm | #5

   I have a small window unit in my two car garage that works pretty well. My wife refers to my shop as my "pout house" I have cable a fridge and music. If I could just get a bathroom, I might not go back in the house.

1. 
   brianmexico | Jul 13, 2005 08:08pm | #7

   Bones,

   I hear ya man. But don't pout, enjoy it.

   Brian

1. 
   bones | Jul 13, 2005 08:51pm | #9

   Hey, she called it the pout house. I just look pitiful close the shop door and grin.  Take care.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 13, 2005 08:44pm | #8

   I have air conditioning in my shop if I open the doors and it's windy out!

   AND in winter...