I have an air compressor and have been considering buying an air nailer. I would like a good general purpose nailer.
Any suggestions as to what gauge fasteners I need to be able to shoot?
Thanks
Chris
I have an air compressor and have been considering buying an air nailer. I would like a good general purpose nailer.
Any suggestions as to what gauge fasteners I need to be able to shoot?
Thanks
Chris
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Replies
Making furniture, I use a brad nailer a lot to attach glue blocks, plywood backs, etc. That is 18 gauge. But the nails are not strong enough to hold anything heavy, even a big piece of trim - the nails themselves bend into a z shape as heavier wood slides.
A finish nailer is 15 or 16 gauge, which is too large for use making furniture, but is great for trim work. I use it sometimes for prototypes out of MDF, but it never has been useful on the furniture itself.
A framing nailer is for 2x4s.
A roofing nailer.... well you know.
A pin nailer is far smaller than a brad nailer - I think 23 gauge. The idea is that the holes are so small that they don't have to be filled, but it is so light that it is rarely used. I think Porter Cable is the only manufacturer.
Side note - most of the 16 gauge finish nailers are straight feed. Most of the 15 gauge nailers feed at an angle (different nails) to allow you to shoot from more directions.
Be sure you can use multiple length nails in whatever nailer you buy.
ok?
If you aren't sure, and you make furniture, buy the brad nailer. I use my Porter Cable nailer a lot. Far more than I expected. The big advantage is that what you are fastening stays aligned while you nail, not vibrating out of alignment like it does with ordinary hammering.
________________________
Charlie Plesums Austin, Texas
http://www.plesums.com/wood
Charlie, Duofast and Senco also make pin nailers.Duofast makes the best of the pin nailers that I have used.
mike
I agree that the 18ga brad nailer is the place to start. Mine stays on my workbench continuously, armed with 1 1/4" brads. Yesterday I was putting 7/8" poplar edging on some [plywood carcasses and wondered whether the 1 1/4" brads would do the job, so I started looking at 16ga finish nailers. Since it seemed like a one-time need (normally I apply 3/4" edging), I decided to try the brad nailer...it worked fine. Obviously I was using glue as the primary binder, but the 1 1/4" brads held the edging flat and aligned. I guess the 16 ga can stay at the store for now.
On a lark I recently bought a narrow crown stapler to tack down carpet...now I'm not sure what else to do with the sucker. I've used ot to attach plywood backs to cabinets, which works well, but I don't like the splintering I get where the crown sets into the ply. This is another item that probably could have stayed at the store...
"I've used ot to attach plywood backs to cabinets, which works well, but I don't like the splintering I get where the crown sets into the ply."
Couldn't this be remedied by adjusting the air pressure sent to the stapler?
Regards,
Ron
Hi, Ron,
I did play with the pressure control but found that when the staples were flush with the plywood some splinters popped up. I'll fiddle around with it some more. Fact is, the splintering I'm referring to does not matter since the backs go against a wall..
My 'workhorse' is a Bostich 18 ga brad nailer that uses brads from 5/8" - 2". For fine work, I use a Senco micropinner (23 ga). The Senco is fantastic since it leaves a tiny 'pinhole' that's almost invisible. It's only good for thinner pieces, however, since the longest pins it shoots are only 1".
One caution about the Senco is that it doesn't have a 'safety' so don't be squeezing the trigger at random. Every squeeze fires a pin.
Interesting to hear you don't like the stapler. Since a brad will pull through a 1/4 inch plywood back, I was thinking of getting a stapler. A little bit of crushed grain around the stapler shouldn't hurt, though, and would probably still be stronger than the brad. What do you think?________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
I have the PC narrow crown stapler, and I love it. It is not something you will use every day, but in certain applications it can't be beat. Back panels, simple shelving, even some upholstery work. Picked mine up for $79.00. In the right situation you need the additional holding power of the staple.
I guess it comes down to how I use the brad nailer...never do I use a brad as the primary fastener: I use glue, with brads to help secure the item until the glue sets.
In terms of the stapler, I probably need to give more thought to when this is an appropriate fastener. My post was an attempt to get a better handle on the best uses for staples versus brads.
Friend,
Staples when put with the crown parallel to the wood-grain, do not break grain much.
They have much more holding power than brad and much of their use precludes use of glue.
For cabinet backs, they are not the best thing. Brads would be better, and they can hold well 1/4" p.w., specially as there are bads with a little more head available, precisely for this type of use.
Another type of stapler is the fine-wire stapler. It is mainly used for upholstery, but here it is used for a lot more things. It can, for instance, substitute for those newere firne-wire nailers. The staple is shot for temporary use in such a way that it can be usually pulled out after glue sets in a molding, for instance. Because it is a staple, it's easy to pull out.
-mbl-
Dear JagMan,
Have 4 different Senco air fastener tools. Two are staplers, one is a brad nailer, and the other is a finish nailer.
The one used the most is the brad nailer, and will give you its specs on what it shoots, so you can compare with what you might want to do:
It's an old Senco SLP20, it shoots brads (thin nails) of either 18 gauge or 16 gauge. It shoots them in lengths from 5/8" to 1.25". Brads for this unit come in two versions: "almost-no head" and 'some-head'. Most of the times this does not matter. What matters most is the lenght.
This range of brads come in straight-line row packs and can use Porter Cable or Senco. Also, this ranges of brads are much cheaper than other type of fasteners, compared to say finis-nails which come at an angle and are of larger diameter, as said in the other response.
The ranges and cost may be important, as you may want to have several lenghts, as that factor is quite important depending on what you are going to fasten.
For other uses, of course, you might need more than one tool.
Good luck.
-mbl-
A 18 gauge nailer is an excellant starting point..
I purchased a Bostich after seeing the hassles others have had with the Porter Cable. A friend of mine calls his Porter cable a nail starter..
Senco, Hitachi, Bostich all seem superior to the Porter Cable
I don't want to start a fight over brands of brad nailers, or suggest that you are wrong, but I do want to share my good experience with the Porter Cable BN200A brad nailer, which I have used for the last 3-4 years. It has never given me an instant's problem - I have never had a partially driven brad, even 2 inches into oak, and have never had a jam. I find it well balanced and easy to use. I am sure there are good units and bad units in every product, but my experience has been very good.
By comparison, I have had countless jams in my Bostich 15 gauge finish nailer, find it far more awkward to load, and very difficult to unload if I am changing nail sizes, and other petty irritations. I have made far less use of the finish nailer, since they are for very different uses, but based on my experience, if I were doing it again, I am biased towards Porter Cable nailers and against Bostich.
Guess that is why multiple brands and models can succeed in all sorts of products. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
I can't say about the Bostich 15 gauge. I bought Hitachi based on the experiance of local pros.
However based on the recommendations of those with other than Porter Cable I choose Bostich.. I too have never had a moments worth of trouble or failure to fully seat a nail.
I have seen too many Portor cable users rely on their nail set to finish the job..
(by the way, I use Porter cable nails for everything except the ones going into oak or black walnut. there because of reaction to the tannins I use stainless steel nails.)
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