Replies

1. 
   Pippins | Feb 16, 2006 04:07pm | #1

   Jim, have you tried the double stick tape? I have not used it myself but cabinet makers in this area use it.

   Steve

2. 
   ChipTam | Feb 16, 2006 04:17pm | #2

   Here's what I've done when you will have pulls utilizing screws or bolts.  Align the false front to the drawer box with shims.  Then, drill the screw holes which will later be used for the pulls through the false front into the drawer box and temporarilly attach the false front.  Open the drawer and attach the false front permenantly with screws from inside the drawer.

   ChipTam

1. 
   Mikesp | Feb 16, 2006 04:38pm | #3

   I will drill the front of the drawer box on the rt and lt sides and then screw in a washer head screw ( McFeely's) so that it very slightly protrudes from the front of the drawer box. I then take my drawer front and place it in the opening using formica sample chips as my shims - you can stack them for needed size. I then hit the drawer front with my hand which will leave a small mark on the back of the drawer front. Then remove the screws from the drawer box and drill the hole open to 1/4 inch. Drill a pilot hole on the back of the drawer front and install the screws through the drawer box into the front - leave just tight enough so that you can still adjust the drawer front when closed but it doesn't move out of place. You can then open the drawer and tighten fully. The 1/4 inch hole allows enough play so that you can get a perfect fit. After I'm done with finishing the piece I perfectly align the fronts and then install the handles which are the screws which fully lock the front in place. I've done this hundreds of times and found it only takes a few minutes per drawer to get a perfect fit.

3. 
   Dave45 | Feb 16, 2006 04:58pm | #4

   I use Chiptam's method if I have drawer pulls.

   If not, I either:

   • work thru the top of the cabinet
   • use my micropinner with 1" pins to tack the drawer front to the box then carefully remove the drawer so I can run screws from inside the box.  The remaining pin holes are virtually invisible and I can usually find somewhere on the drawer front that isn't too obvious.

   I've never used double sided tape but that should work too.

4. 
   GaryW | Feb 16, 2006 08:01pm | #5

   Use drawer front adjusters, available from Hafele at http://www.hafeleonline.com/ (see attachment) and others. I prefer the one in the middle. A pair of those is pressed or hammered into the back of the front, and dowel centers are used to locate it's screw holes on the drawer box. Drill the box, insert screws through the box and into the adjuster, and then you can move the front about an eighth inch in all directions to accurately locate it within the face frame. Tighten the screws and then permanently anchor the front to the box with other screws. Don't use nails and you'll be able to remove the front for finiishing.

   Gary

   gwwoodworking.com

   
5. 
   sapwood | Feb 17, 2006 05:18am | #6

   I like all the methods mentioned so far. I usually don't have dust shelves in the pieces I make so by starting at the bottom I can reach in and hold the drawer face tight to the box while opening it. Then a pinch clamp or two to hold, drill and screw. The top one is the tricky one of course. I have usually used hot melt glue. Yes it is thick but holds the face well while drilling. Then before screwing on the face I pare the glue off with a chisel. Pretty easy.

   The screws through the handle holes idea is great, but I never seem to have handles ready at that phase. I'm a get it as I need it person. Not very efficient, but that's life! I also like that screws as center-punch idea. I'll use it! Thanks.

1. 
   Dave45 | Feb 17, 2006 04:49pm | #8

   You don't really have to have the drawer handles/knobs when you mount the drawer fronts.  My customers often drag their feet on hardware selection so I get them to commit to a type so I can do my job.  (Yes, I emphasize that changing their minds can change the price - lol.)

   Even if they change their mind (and that's happened a few times), you can usually find backing plates that hide the old hole(s).  In the worst case, you may have to make new drawer fronts.

6. 
   jim1941 | Feb 17, 2006 03:30pm | #7

   Thanks to all for replying to my post.... I suspect I will try all the suggestions, if not on this project, on the next ones.