Replies

1. 
   rslatm | Jan 15, 2004 03:38pm | #1

   We have a 20" jointer with  a 9' bed and have attached a table to the end of each cast table and use two legs with screw levelers on each table. If you add an out feed table you must add an infeed table. A jointed piece of wood about 7' long will suffice as a straight edge. Make sure your add on tables are falt first. Place the straight edge half on the extension and outfeed table and repeat the process on the infeed table and it's extension.
2. 
   jako17 | Jan 15, 2004 03:46pm | #2

   Try a water level.Basic but it works

3. 
   DJK | Jan 15, 2004 07:18pm | #3

   Rip a long straight board on the table saw to use as a straight edg. Use winding sticks to remove the " twist " from the outfeed table.

4. 
   djcolorado | Jan 20, 2004 09:46am | #4

   A few months ago in one of the forums, there was a pointer to do this (as well as setting up the jointer outfeed table height) using a digital level that I am now a believer in.  A digital level is a little pricey ($80+) but the one I have resolves down to .1 degrees.  You first calibrate it to zero while it is sitting on the table only.  You then bridge it between the table and the extension and adjust the extension hieght until it reads zero.  This process works really well for a thickness planer as well

1. 
   redrock | Jan 21, 2004 04:00am | #5

   dj---that sounds good, what make is it? where did you get it?

   len

1. 
   djcolorado | Jan 21, 2004 07:41am | #8

   This is the link to Amazon.com for the Mecklanberg-Duncan Smart tool model. I bought mine at a local hardware store, but that store didn't have enough demand and had them on a fire sale.  If I were to do it again, it can be bought with a regular metal level that it attaches to and I would by the whole assembly.  I currently bridge an angel iron between the table and the extension and place the level on the angle iron when I adjust the extension.  Though the original post regarded the outfeed table extension, I also use it to set up the infeed table extension to eliminate snipe. 

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000225AL/qid=1074659630/br=2-3/ref=br_ts_slwth_th_3/103-9033699-4467059?v=glance&s=hi&n=553256

5. 
   Norse | Jan 21, 2004 04:54am | #6

   I'm thinking offset string line in combination with your best straight edge over any type of level. If your floor is out of level, you're going to be fighting it all the way. Use the thin nylon twine (drop ceiling installers us it), not the thick construction stuff and pull it tight, tight, tight. Some type of screw instead of shims will give you the ability to pull it down if its warpped.

   Norse

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 21, 2004 06:34am | #7

   Norse -

   I think the kind of level these guys are talking about is a digital level - one that you can set on a surface, zero out the reading and use that for a reference. Something like a declevity level used in ship building. My shop floor is pretty level but not without 'industry standard' deviations. So I think I might be able to rig a regular 4' level with a shim to 'zero out' the bubble and achieve the same results if I always orient the level in the same direction.

   The string line (we call it jet line here) might work as well. I'm pretty preoccupied with some other projects at the moment and won't be back using the jointer for a spell, but when I do I think I'll take the time to re-adjust that big outfeed table correctly.

   Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I have a clearer picture of how to proceed now.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis