In response to a request from Rich14 in another thread at this forum there is a link to the description of an alternative table saw ripping technique at the end of this post. I remembered tonight that I jointly authored an article on this topic which is out on the internet and linking to it seems an easy means of getting the information to you.
This was a piece that Barb Siddiqui started to write. Barb is lovely lady that lives in the NW of the US and an amateur woodworker and author on woodworking topics. She wrote the first part of the article and asked me to comment on the modifications she’d made to her US style saw and her ripping technique using those modifications.
I hope you find it of interest and worth at least a ponder. As I said in the other thread in response to something JohnWW said, I find US style ripping with a long rip fence, no riving knife and no crown guard gives me the heebie-jeebies just to watch. It always looks like an amputation or kickback waiting to happen and it’s a technique I abhor.
If I ever see someone use such a technique here in the UK in a workshop I’m in charge of they’ll certainly receive at least the full hair drier treatment, and probably worse. You have to understand British (specifically English) professional football to get the last reference, but Alex Ferguson is the passionate manager of Manchester United reputed to have a wee bit of a temper. It’s said he tends to lose the plot a bit if players are somewhat less than committed, or are inept during a game, ha, ha. Slainte.
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=powertools&file=articles_108.shtml
Replies
As I have stated in another post...
both infeed and outfeed support are important. As important as ANY saw setup.. Just me..
Thanks Richard. The explanations were crystal clear.
I do most of my ripping on the bandsaw.
My question was principally concerning how, on the table saw with a short fence, to guide the work in a straight line as the length of fence contacting the work becomes shorter and shorter as the back end of the work is finally pushed through. I had pictured the short fence to end at about the "front" of the blade.
Now that I know a short fence ends at about mid-blade, I realize there is more fence guiding the piece than I had pictured. Still, because I've never used a short fence, it's hard for me to "feel" myself confidently guiding the work with only 5 inches, or so, of fence to help.
Because you say it works, I must accept that, and I'll practice the technique. I like to use the "shoe" type push blocks.
Rich
Scary? Naw. Try ripping on a radial arm saw....
Richard,
Well written and articulate. I have no experience with the approach you describe. I do have thousands of hours logged over my nearly 20 yr. woodworking career using long fences and no guards for ripping. It was just the way I was taught and feel most comfortable. I find now when using a saw with any sort of guard in place, very uncomfortable. Probably because I'm used to having everything in front of me in plain view.
I have never had any accidents with a tablesaw, a few near misses due to inattention. Of the accidents I've seen, none were from ripping solid stock, and all because of inexperience. I'm in no way advocating throwing aside all safety devices, only stating my experience. Perhaps I'll give your methods a whirl, I'm always up for something new.
Just curious, what is the preffered method for sizing sheet stock in the UK.? What equipment?
- Paul
Paul,These argumen . . . er, discussions, have raged here for a long time. And probably always will. On a typical saw available in the US, no guard also means no splitter. On a saw fitted with a riving knife (far superior to most simple "splitters"), the guard could be absent with the knife still in place (although I have no idea why one would do that).Ripping without a splitter is an invitation to disaster. It's that simple. I cannot imagine objecting to the presence of the single, simple device which can almost (repeat, almost) eliminate the most frequent cause for kickback - the rising rear teeth of the blade grabbing the wood, from all the many reasons that the work can get into that position.I would never allow a worker in my shop to carry out ripping on a tablesaw without a splitter, of some sort, in place. There are alternate designs than the "standard" US type.Since the presence of debris coming off the blade is not only a nuisance, but a safety factor also, in that, it distracts the operator from paying attention, I also would not allow operation without a guard, and ideally, a means of dust colletion on the guard.Rich
Rich,
I stated that I feel uncomfortable using a saw with a guard. Perhaps the reason is that guards that I've had the displeasure of using have been poorly designed, clumsy, and in the way. Not, in my opinion, a safe scenario either. If I find one that meets my criteria I may use it, until then I have to work with what I'm comfortable.
Also I mentioned not ever recalling an accident ripping solid stock. I know they happen, what we do is inherently dangerous. I will always believe the best safety equipment is a clear head, and knowledge of what is in front of you.
Opinions are like belly buttons.......
- Paul
I will always believe the best safety equipment is a clear head, and knowledge of what is in front of you. And THEN I saw that Brunette I dated!
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