Replies

1. 
   KeithNewton | Mar 21, 2006 02:36pm | #1

   If you are not going into a kiln with the wood, you can probably get by with just using a white primer. That is what I do for my turning logs. The chainsawn end-grain leaves a pretty rough surface that will hold a pretty heavy coat.

2. 
   h12721 | Mar 21, 2006 06:54pm | #2

   I heard some Folks use  Latex Paint.

   Hilmar

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 21, 2006 07:02pm | #3

   Jaime,

   The objective of sealing the end of the log/board is to prevent watervapor from escaping.  It will escape much faster from end wood than surface wood resulting in faster shrinkage of the wood in the end of the log.  This leads to checking and splitting.  You want to force the watervapor to escape through the surface of the log in the whole log.

   So, what you have been doing is just fine.  Anchorseal is just a water emulsion of a wax that can be applied heavily.  There is nothing short of encapsulation in plastic that prevents water vapor transmission better than a thick coating of wax.  All normal finishes provide rather short term (days rather than weeks) barriers to watervapor.

   One thing you could try is to use multiple coats of a polyurethane finish.  Something on the order of ten coats might give you a pretty good barrier for a month.  Of course, that much poly may cost as much as a container of Anchorseal.

   Howie.........
1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2006 12:26am | #8

   "So, what you have been doing is just fine."  Well, yeah, on smaller (and many fewer) pieces.  Have to keep heating up the wax though, and I suspect wax would get reallllll expensive.  The Anchoseal's looking better and better.  I probably have some old buckets of oil-based paint around too......forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   terryb | Mar 22, 2006 07:19am | #9

   Oil based paints typically won't work with green(ish) logs because it won't stick too well to wet wood. Latex paint is porous by nature so doesn't seal too well. I've painted anchorseal on green, wet wood with no problems. No good if it's raining though - it'll get washed off.

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2006 08:56am | #10

   "No good if it's raining though - it'll get washed off."  Boy, you're just no help at all!  ROFL!!  this cedar has been dead for over a year.  I don't know what to expect when we get inside.  It was trying to grow a few new needles up toward the top of its 75' trunks (of which it has 5 or 6, can't remember). 

   Hubby is now thinking about ordering the new chain saw on-line, so I may have a week respite to order the Anchoseal.  Talking him into spending $50 or so for a "facial peel" for the logs might be a trick. <g>  Will keep you posted.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   migraine | Mar 23, 2006 08:12pm | #13

   The chain saw carving guy out by Ocean Shores recommends log sealer that is sold through your local Ace store.  Might want to try that.

    

   As a a side note, I haven't heard back from you on the stove.  So, what was the out come?  I hope it wasn't "bad news..."

4. 
   tms | Mar 21, 2006 10:46pm | #4

   Hey Jamie,

   Woodcraft sells a product, similar to Anchor Seal, by the gallon. I used it on the black locust, and cherry that Dennis gave me, and it seems to work well enough.

   Tom

5. 
   terryb | Mar 21, 2006 10:52pm | #5

   Anchorseal is only expensive if you buy it from the designer woodworking stores. I've been using it for about 10 years and get it directly from UC Coatings. The last time I bought some, it was about $50 for 5 gallons - delivered. It works better than latex paint and is cheaper. I'm pretty sure they'll ship 1 gallon pots too. Give 'em a call.
   https://www.uccoatings.com/prod_anchorseal.php

1. 
   Ron01960 | Mar 21, 2006 11:46pm | #6

   You might find some pertinent information here.http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/search/search.cgiGood luckRon

2. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2006 12:24am | #7

   Thanks for the link, Terry, that helps!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

6. 
   Garry | Mar 22, 2006 10:21pm | #11

   I have been using Green Wood Sealer from Woodcraft. I can use it in cold weather which it seems to be where I live most of the time. So far I have had good luck. It works much better than latex paint and is just about the same consistancy.

   http://www.superwoodworks.com

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 22, 2006 11:38pm | #12

   Thanks, Garry, I'll check it out!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   stantheman | Mar 24, 2006 01:15am | #15

   F-G

   being basically cheap and resourceful, I've used (1) broken wax toilet rings and (2) leftover-about-to-throw-out shellac, succesfully. 

7. 
   bugeye | Mar 24, 2006 01:04am | #14

   hi,
   cedar isn't prone to checking, in fact, it's probably as good in that regard as anything I can think of. Just use any old paint you have left over. Shellac is as good as anything else, and cheaper than anchorseal.Gotta go, crying baby.