Hello, this is my first time at this so thanks in advance for any help!
I recently came across a great deal on some american beech so I picked some up for toolbox I have been planning on bulding. I read the wood has good workability however I’m in the dark on finishing techniques? The box is going to be a gift so I want it to be attractive as well as durable. Appreciate any advice.
Cutnwood
Replies
cutnwood, (boy, you really have to be careful when you type that name)
If this is going to be a working toolbox and not just a decoration, you don't want a film finish on it. I would use either straight BLO or a BLO and varnish mixture. Both will be applied liberally and allowed to soak in for 15 minutes or so before all of the excess is wiped off. Repeat this 2 or 3 times. This finish will allow you to refresh the finish anytime it starts to look a little beat up.
Rob
Thanks Rob, I'm not quite sure of the function but it will probably be some of both. I'll try the BLO and varnish mixture (50/50 ?) on some scrap. One other question I had was what would be the best way to darken or add a little tint? Thanks again.
John
cutnwood, (man I hope I don't mistype that)
Oil/varnish mixtures are usually made with equal parts BLO/oil-base varnish/mineral spirits. That finish will darken the wood and pop the grain. I've never used beechwood, but I bet you will like what you see. Let me know how the sample turns out, maybe some pics?
Rob
Well, your doing good on the typo's! I'll give it a whirl and get you some pic's as well (it maybe a few days).
Take care and thanks again,
John
If you want to darken it a little, I suggest Waterlox, which is a fairly dark wiping varnish.
Keep in mind that the wood will darken by itself over time. Beech starts out sort of pinkish/orangeish but turns golden brown as it ages.
-Steve
I saw your post on finish for beach wood. What is BLO?
Thanks,
Jim
Boiled Linseed Oil
Hey Rob, I just wanted to thank you for being one of the few people who have made me laugh recently on this board. Some may not pick up on the humor, I loved it. Now I'm heading to my shop to start cutnmaple.Peace!
j,
Glad you enjoyed the humor. I was beginning to wonder if anyone got it. You payed me back with this line from your post in the topic on drying sycamore....
"He swears by it, but he is one of those weird left-handed artsy types. Probably smokes a lot of pot."
That made me laugh out loud. My wife thinks I'm wierd. Oh well.
Rob
My wife thinks I'm wierd.
Well then, were kindred -- my wife thinks I'm weird, too. I'm always chuckling to myself or breaking out in a grin over some thought or idea. I have to be careful, though, once or twice I think I caught the neighbors eyeballing me suspiciously while cutting the grass and remembering a good joke or a favorite prank...
I'm incriminating myself, but I'm left-handed too!Jeff
Jeff,
I had a suspicion....
Birds of a feather and all that.
Rob
If you do not want the beechwood to darken, use pure tung oil cut in half with mineral spirits or citrus oil, applied in thin coats.
I'm for the tung oil on beech - - straight from the can- - apply it like blo--- leave it for 15 minutes --- wipe it off-- then come back the next day and repeat - - as many coats as you like.
Or just use BLO and leave the tung oil on the shelf. I bet a weeks pay that in a blind test none of us could tell the difference. BLO is cheaper, easier to find, cures quicker, requires less coats and has a much higher idiot proof rating.
Besides 90% of what people think is tung oil isn't. It sure sounds all oriental and exotic though. I guess you could just say you used tung oil to impress the great unwashed.
Rob
Tung oil smells better (to me, at least). Or, to put it more accurately, tung oil smells less bad to me than BLO.
-Steve
Steve,
True.
OK, we'll add that to the "pros" (kind of) side of the list for TO.
Rob
IMHO there are differences between BLO and pure tung oil. First, tung oil does not darken wood as BLO does, particularly for a piece that is ever exposed to the sun. Second, if you wipe off tung oil within 15 minutes after application, and try to do the same with BLO, you will find that tung oil comes off more cleanly and dries more thoroughly within 24 hours.
I'm currently building several cabinets using beech finished with Watco Gloss Lacquer. Here are a couple of pictures. One shows unfinished ply with a finished sample. The other shows a finished cabinet.
Hi Dave and thanks for the pics. I tried the rub Rob suggested earlier and am pretty satisfied with the results. As far as the pics go, the appearance looks almost identical. Your finished cabinets look great. Thanks for the tip. Have you used the Watco gloss lacquer on other projects?
John
John -
This is my first project using the Watco lacquer and I'm really happy with it. I made up several samples using various finishes for the customer and they immediately picked the lacquer and said it was exactly what they were looking for.
It's always better to be lucky than good, right? - lol
Hi Dave and thanks for the info. I haven't started finishing yet so I think I'll try it out. Where do you find the finish? Never looked for it before so was just wondering if it is pretty available.
John
Watco is a fairly common brand so it should be available at quite a few places. I got mine at the local ACE Hardware.
Good deal, I'll check it out and let you know.
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