Replies

1. 
   MarkRD | Aug 13, 2005 09:37pm | #1

   You may want to post this over at Breaktime. However, here's my two cents.
   Look at some of these post anchors used for holding deck posts to footings. http://doityourself.com/store/postanchorsandcaps.htm

   They are either bolted to the concrete (all kinds of different bolts at Home Depot) Or powernailed to the concrete (22 caliber charge drives the nails into the concrete - frankly I prefer the bolting technique)

   Good luck.
   Mark

   Visit my woodworking blog Dust Maker
1. 
   jjmagoo | Aug 14, 2005 10:25am | #6

   Thanks for your help, Mark.

2. 
   mudman | Aug 13, 2005 09:55pm | #2

   You should post this on Breaktime as this is more their kind of thing. However I am a remodeler so here is my approach to your situation. First of all, the most common reason for a half wall like you describe is a kitchen bar type thing. If there is to be cabinerty butted against one side that will be enough to stabilize it. When I remove such walls I find that the builders always used Hilti type concerte nails to secure the wall (which meets code here) and there was no problem. However I use anchor bolts, the swage type or "redheads". If the wall will have no cabinetry to help stabilize it frame it with either 2x6 or double 2x4 lumber. The added width of the sill plate, combined with "redheads" inbetween each stud bay will make a wall that is obsenely tenatious. Once on comercial archaitechial job we had to make several free standing walls (no wall to tie into on either end). For that we framed with 2x6 lumber (the designer would not go for anything wider), anchored every 16" with 1/2" swage bolts as described before, then glued and screwed 1/4" ply on both sides of the wall. This better secured the bottom and top plates to the studs and created a VERY ridgid torsion assembly. These walls were used to hold hundreds of pounds of retail merchandise on one side so there was a tremendous about of cantileverd stress on the wall. Those walls are rock solid! Two weeks later the designer called upset that one of the walls was not placed correctly. I sent out my main guy to knock it out. He is a big guy and said the ONLY way he could get it out was by attacking it with a recip saw.

   Hope that helps,

   Mike

1. 
   jjmagoo | Aug 14, 2005 10:21am | #5

   That helps a lot, Mike. Thanks

3. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 14, 2005 02:56am | #3

   JJ,at your drywall material dealer, ask for metal floor channel wide enough to accept the sill you are using. Example 2x3 or 2x4
   This 'track' can be shot directly to the floor with either a Hilti or Ram Set gun.
   After the track is secured to the floor, place your sill inside the track and fasten with drywall screws.
   Finish building the upright studding and cap, then, brace the open wall plumb before attaching the dry wall material
   Don't remove the braces until most of the 'rock' is secured to both sides. Strong as a Sherman tank .Steinmetz.

   Before they had metal studs,(Pre 1970) I always pre drilled the sill and 'slab' for lag screws and lead shields. (1/2'lags 3/4" shields) Stein.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/14/2005 9:22 am ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   jjmagoo | Aug 14, 2005 10:17am | #4

   Thanks for the help Stein!

4. 
   8quarter | Aug 15, 2005 03:25am | #7

   If you want to anchor that think and not go chasing for all kinds of stuff heres how. Your last stud on the wall goes by the bottom plate and through a hole, cut to size to the joist below. then you anchor the bottom by going under and blocking between the joist and attaching the stud to the blocking.

   ..

1. 
   mudman | Aug 15, 2005 06:50am | #8

   assuming it is a pier and beam, or a second story that is the best way to do it. If it is a slab....... your going to have a hard time finding the joists. ;-)

   Mike

1. 
   8quarter | Aug 15, 2005 06:18pm | #9

   point noted :) I forget about those slab houses. Don't see many around here.

5. 
   papanick | Aug 15, 2005 07:29pm | #10

   I'd think twice about using a Ramset or other powder charge through ceramic tile.

   A good masonry bit should go through without any/much cracking, but the ramset will make you cry.

   The older I get, the better I was....

1. 
   ohcomeon | Aug 15, 2005 07:35pm | #11

   That was one of my questions; addressing the ceramic tile as substrate and the potential for cracking.  Would it be better to cut/cold chisel out the tiles down to a stable substrate (slab)?

1. 
   mudman | Aug 15, 2005 07:40pm | #12

   I would definately remove the necessary tiles and clean the adhesive (thinset whatever) untill you get to soung concrete. If you ever replace the floor you will be glad you did it.

   Mike

2. 
   papanick | Aug 15, 2005 07:51pm | #13

   Its a question of side load on the wall, and how exposed your finished wall needs to be.

   Using the redhead sleeve anchors will suck the sill plate down really tight, and the tile would probably be fine, since it's sandwiched in there. But, you never really know. There might be uneven mastic under the tile, or a badly buttered tile with voids, anything.

   Ideally, you'd score and cut out the tiles to the size of the wall plate, so it sits below the tiles, and drywall, tile or panel down against the top of the tile (j-bead or whatever). It gives you 1/2" or so to work with so that the cuts don't have to be PERFECT. 

   Give the concrete a quick scrape, and then use PL (construction adhesive) under the sill plate. Drill and Lag that puppy down. Good luck moving that wall after it cures.

    The older I get, the better I was....

6. 
   mike4244 | Aug 16, 2005 12:22am | #14

   Make the wall framing from 2x6's. Anchor the plate down with expansion bolts in the concrete, not the tile. I use a rotohammer for this. Drill thru the wood and concrete at the free end for another expansion bolt and allthread. The allthread goes from the top plate, thru the bottom plate and into the concrete. Tighten this up and the wall will have less than 1/16" of play before you rock it. When the rock is on the wall it won't budge.

   mike