Replies

1. 
   Samson | Dec 26, 2006 07:06am | #1

   Which way are you mounting them with the narrow side to the wall or the wide?  If the wide, masonry nails and along with construction adhesive should do fine; if the narrow, 31/2" before even reaching the wall is a tough order for masonry nails.  Why not run a plate of pressure treated on the floor and a runner on the joists at the top and attach your studs to them?  If you need to attach the 2x4's to the cinder blocks directly, I'd use bolts with expanding lead sleeves and add some liquid nails as I was bolting them in.  That will be one strong wall in case you want to hand a lumber rack or other heavy cabinets, etc.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Dec 27, 2006 04:10am | #5

   To Samson, Tinkerer, John, and Steinmetz. You folks are great and mind readers. Yes there will be very heavy tool wall cases and ready to use hardwood supply racks. It's 7'10" to the bottom of the ceiling joist. There will be 4 awning windows high up on one long wall . I now see tyvek and blue foam board on the block, a pressure treated 2x4 plate shot to the slab and a 2x4 nailer plumbed and frame nailed to the bottom of the joists. Rock 8' horizontal along  the floor plate and a 3' section on top leaving 10" clear to the ceiling to run the power, compressor air and 4" DC pipe long runs. Studs will be conventional framing (I was going to surface mount all services but now think that it would look too shabby at the bench level and screw up the use of the tool cases hanging on french cleats).

   I will however (being a belt and suspenders guy) bolt angle brackets to the wall  in the top 2/3 d's(say at 4' and 6' AFF) of those studs that will see tool cases and lumber racks.

   Many thanks, ya made me think, Paddy

1. 
   JMartinsky | Dec 27, 2006 06:46am | #6

   Dear Paddy,
   One last suggestion:7' 10"? You could run the drywall vertically. It is not my favorite way, but its done with 5/8" commercially all of the time. No butt or horizontal joints, just vertical "factory joints which are easier to tape. 1/2" will show some waves I imagine, so, if you do choose this method, I would opt for the 5/8", but that's your call.Best,John

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Dec 27, 2006 09:02am | #7

   JOHN, I don't dance so fast any more at my age so I will lay the rock down 8' horizontal and drop a 3' cut on top. This isn't a NYC art gallery just my wood shop and no lady designer in site (unfortunately). I truly appreciate the intrest and the concern.Peace, Paddy

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

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1. 
   JMartinsky | Dec 27, 2006 03:01pm | #8

   Dear Paddy,
   Sounds good to me! Peace to you as well.Best,John

2. 
   tinkerer2 | Dec 26, 2006 07:14am | #2

   Are you insulating the wall?  I have run continuous foam insulating board against the block wall and then shot furring strips through the foam board and into the blocks.  Do you necessarily need to use a 2X4?  Furring strips would be cheaper.  If not insulating, they can be shot directly to the blocks.

3. 
   JMartinsky | Dec 26, 2006 05:49pm | #3

   Dear Paddy,
   From the old sod? I like it! I make all connections to masonry, in this application, of shooting in with construction adhesive. The tyvek is a good idea. Let me offer an alternative:

   Drape the cinder walls with tyvek. Shoot a full 2x4 plate into the floor all along the perimeter. (PT, white oak etc.) Plumbing up off of the new plate, install a 2x4 "top plate" and then stick frame the wall, conventionally.

   The advantages are:
   1) This makes for a nice, solid wall. Hang whatever you want.
   2) It will allow you to insulate with fiberglass, up to R-15
   3) The depth necessary for standard electrical boxes. No fighting with "pancakes".
   4) It will also minimize the use of the "shotgun" (powder actuated) which is tedious at best.
   5) Full 2x4s means no drywall screws burying out in the concrete through furring strips.
   6) Block walls typically are not all that flat. They don't look too bad until you start trying to drywall them.

   Further suggestions:
   1) Don't skimp on the adhesive.
   2) Don't go wild with the "shotgun". A nail every 24" is plenty.
   3) You have a large area, so shooting furring strips, or 2x4s' on the flat will only buy you a minimum of space.
   4) You mention no water problems. I would use water resistant drywall for at least the bottom course, if not the entire area. I would also be considering a de-humidifier as well.

   That's it. I hope that it works well.

   Best,

   John

4. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 27, 2006 12:32am | #4

   I've seen this done plenty of times.. Butter the wall with a thick splotchs of tape compound (Or,to the backs of the rock)
   Tap with a flat board and hammer and work the sheet into place and temporarily brace to the floor 'till it dries. Definitely a two man job. Steinmetz

5. 
   kenshep | Jan 10, 2007 01:12am | #9

   I wouldn't use dry wall. I think I would put up 3/4 inch plywood. Might be pricier, but you can then mount anything on it and trust it will stay in place. No mudding, taping, sanding...and when you bump the wall it won't leave a hole. You can paint it white if you want the lighting to be amplified. Pegboard, goes up easier wherever you want it on plywood too. If you are industrious painting you wall you can paint the stud locations (1.5 inches stripes) with a different color or a different gloss paint to make it easier to attach heavy weight items too.

    

   Regards,

   Ken

   "Do as you would be done by." C.S. Lewis

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jan 10, 2007 04:29am | #10

   Ken, thanks for the reply, with 48 x 24  thus 120' of 3/4 " ply(one short wall is two garage doors) . Too much bucks so I will stud from floor joist to new treated sill plate and bridge 2 x 10 where I need it for tool cases etc. Paddy

6. 
   wyo | Jan 10, 2007 07:04am | #11

   Do a google search for "concrete fasteners". As you know, the correct choice has to do with the intended load.

   I've used tapcon screws for medium duty apps. For heavy stuff, I've used lag shields, but there are many other solutions out there.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jan 11, 2007 06:43am | #12

   WVO, I bit the bullit and decided to avoid tying to the block wall when I could stud out from shot down  treated plate to the joists above and save the tap cons for special needs. Thanks for the info . Paddy

1. 
   [email protected] | Jan 11, 2007 11:23pm | #13

   I'd add 2x6 nailers at about 35 to 40, and 69 to 84-inches up from the floor, so you have a known place to attach heavy cabinets.  Also, I'd have a couple of places where the sheetrock "fill peice" went on the bottom, with full sheets of 3/4 ply as the top sheet, to have a good place to hang heavy objects. 

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jan 12, 2007 02:08am | #14

   J-n-F, I figured 2 x 10 in the same places for tool cases. Thanks, Paddy