Replies

1. 
   patternmaker | Jan 11, 2005 12:42am | #1

   Jam:
   If I understand you correctly,there are two easy ways to do this.
   Make a jig for the drill press with the 5 degrees per side to hold the leg. With the top cut surface parallel to the press table,drill whatever size hole necessary for the dowel that you use as a tenon.
   Make a similar jig to go on the top end of the leg to locate a template for routing the hole for the pin. This would be my choice simply because the leg can now be held in the vise.
   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

   Thank you,Mr.Croney,where ever you may be.
   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
1. 
   takajo | Jan 11, 2005 12:47am | #2

   Thanks Pat for your response.  I was actually interested in cutting a tenon from the leg stock itself as oppose to inserting a dowel.  I may have been unclear when I mentioned that I had already cut the shoulder at a 5 degree angle in which case it is clear your drill press solution would save my leg.  Fortunately, I am now starting from scratch with the legs and have yet to make a single cut.  Any suggestions on how to cut the tenon and angled shoulder on the table saw?  Thanks!

1. 
   KyleZ | Jan 11, 2005 01:29am | #3

   Not to go CStanford on you, but for one stool why don't you just lay them out and cut them with a handsaw?

   Cheers

   Kyle

1. 
   Peter36 | Jan 11, 2005 10:31pm | #7

   CStanford, that's good. Very good.

2. 
   patternmaker | Jan 11, 2005 01:58am | #4

   With the proper set ups and a little care,there is almost nothing that cannot be accomplished with to-days equipment.
   However,for one stool,Kyle has the right idea. I could do the work with hand tools before I could make the jigs for a production run.
   Thank you,Mr. Croney,Wherever you might be.
   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬Thank you,Mr.Croney,where ever you may be.
   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

2. 
   joinerswork | Jan 11, 2005 05:10pm | #5

   jam,

   I am assuming that the legs are only angling towards the ends of the bench.  That is, if you look at the thing from the long side, the legs are farther apart at the floor; looked at from the end, the legs are parallel.

   If you want to make the cuts on a table saw, what I'd recommend you do is to cut a slender (tapered from maybe 1-1/2" wide X12" long) wedge of 3/4plywood or other scrap at the 5*angle.  Lay this against the saw's crosscut fence, the leg against the wedge,and using a dado head, cut the cheeks of the tenons.   You will have a "left" and "right" cut to make on each leg.  Make all the left cuts, then flip the tapered wedge end for end, and cut the cheek on the other side of the legs. 

   I'd lay out the joint carefully on one leg with a bevel square and marking guage, marking the lines with a knife.  Use this to make your set up on the saw, using a stop block on the end of the leg away from the tenon.  The block will be clamped to the crosscut fence, and it needs to be wide enough to reach beyond the wedge.

   Be aware that the mortises will need to have their ends angled to match the splay of the legs.  Alternatively, you could cut the mortises square to the face of the top, and put an angled haunch on the edges of the tenons to accomodate the mortise.  Just square a line up from the shoulder of the tenon (or down from the end, which is at the splay angle) on each edge.

   Compound angles, where the legs splay in both directions, endwise and sideways need a whole different set up.  Let me know if that's what you are planning.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   scooter1 | Jan 11, 2005 10:22pm | #6

   Let me tell you how I do it:I am still unclear if the mortise (the hole) has been drilled or not, of whether you have square or round stock. Round stock will be hard to work with on the table saw, except using a shop made jig. Let me tell you how I do with square stock.I make straight mortises and angled tenons. It simplifies construction; You can make angled mortise and straight tenons, but as you note the shoulders will have to be angled. This doesn't save me much time, so I do my way.After the mortise or hole has been drilled at 90 degrees, I put the leg into a shop made tenoning jig for the router. This is essentially a "T" looking affair, that holds the leg upright and straight and a guide bushing follows the outline fo the tenon. Pat Warner has one for sale for $100 or buy his book for $25 and the plans are in it. Mine is a tad different than his, in that I have an adjustable top plate for various size tenons, like one for a quarter, one for three eighths etc.Once I have determined the master angle, yours is 5 degrees, I put in a wedge of 5 degrees into the jig which cants the leg at 5 degrees and then I rout away. My method cuts the tenon and the shoulders at the same time and angles the shoulders perfectly.If you have round stock and an angled hole (somehow I suspect that is the case), you will need to make a shop made jig to hold your work in front of a miter guage, like a tight fitting box with a stop. Run it through the miter guage at 5 degrees, then flip it over and run it through the miter guage on the other side of the blade. Then use a hand saw to connect the two kerfs.Hope this helps.Regards,
   Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934