Replies

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 17, 2005 11:12pm | #1

   "I am going to try to dye a figured maple cabinet. I bought a oil base dye that i mixed with tung oil. My question is do i put on one coat of dye and then use clear tung oil for more protection or use a ploy? Do I sand between coats? I just don't know really what to do after the dye goes on."

   MT330,

   Please don't be insulted if I ask whether the product you intend to use is a dye, a stain, or a combination of dye and stain. I've run into a number of prominent and successful furniture makers who use the terms dye and stain interchangeably, although they have different properties.

   In my experience, maple can be challenging to dye or stain and achieve conistent results if you want to avoid a surface finish that obscures the woodgrain; if that's the case, there are several suface appearances you can achieve using gel stains, tinted varnish, lacquer or shellac, or even paints.

   If you are trying to enhance the natural beauty of the maple without obscuring it, I'd strongly recommend you experiment dying, staining and finishing several pieces of maple, documenting the process, products, and formulas, as you go.

   Unfortunately, I've seen some remarkable pieces lovingly crafted in maple, and ruined during the finishing process because the craftsman failed to perfect their finishing routine using test pieces before tackling their completed project.
   The results you acheive can be consistently repeated in subsequent applications, and repairs made far more easily, by referring to your notes to ascertain the ingredients used to achieve particular color, or the processes used to achieve a certain surface texture, or the stpes taken to overcome a particular finishing obstacle - like sealing padauk to prevent contamination of adjacent surfaces with a telltale orange glow.
   Check out a book like Jeff Jewitt's "Great Wood Finishes" or "Adventures in Wood Finishing" by George Frank and start experimenting! With a little of the recipes and facts from a good book, and a willingness to experiment - learning more and more with each successive experiment - you'll become comfortable with the finishing process because much of the risk is removed, and with it, the trepidation.

   When you're experimenting with maple test pieces, dies will provide less blotching than stains - with stains, a pre-stain conditioner, wash coat of shellac, or sanding sealer can provide a margin of safety, but they don't always work. You might also want to experiment with mordants, which can make an observable difference in the appearance of subsequent applications of stains - I've had some very interesting results using only a modant of acetic acid and iron oxide on maple.

   Have fun!

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   mt330 | Jan 18, 2005 12:19am | #2

   The dye I used is J.E Mosers red maple that I mixed with tong oil. I have put on one coat allready and am thinking about another coat. I am wondering do I use steel wool between coats or just reapply the dye. Then do I apply clear tung oil rubbing with steel wool? Can I use a poly? I am using test boards as I go but I would like to know that I am going in the right direction.

   thanks 

   Edited 1/17/2005 4:24 pm ET by mt330

1. 
   mt330 | Jan 18, 2005 06:07pm | #3

   Will more than one coat of dye make a difference or will I have to darken the mix?

    

2. 
   wgsdvm | Jan 18, 2005 11:50pm | #4

   Say, where do you buy that J.E.Mosers red maple dye, I am preparing two curly maple end tables and would like to try it.

   Thanks

    

1. 
   mt330 | Jan 19, 2005 12:53am | #5

   I got it from woodworkers supply.

1. 
   wgsdvm | Jan 19, 2005 04:11pm | #7

   thank you.

3. 
   lwj2 | Jan 19, 2005 05:12am | #6

   The dye I used is J.E Mosers red maple that I mixed with tong oil. I have put on one coat allready and am thinking about another coat. I am wondering do I use steel wool between coats or just reapply the dye. Then do I apply clear tung oil rubbing with steel wool? Can I use a poly? I am using test boards as I go but I would like to know that I am going in the right direction.

   With any coating like tung oil, you should sand lightly (steel wool will do) between coats, finishes like tung oil need a "toothed" surface to adhere to.

   Regards,

   Leon Jester

1. 
   mt330 | Jan 20, 2005 12:50am | #8

   Hey thanks. Can I put a clear tung oil over the dye?

1. 
   lwj2 | Jan 20, 2005 06:00am | #9

   Sure, works fine. Just remember that any finish that's not it's own solvent (shellac, lacquer) needs to be scuff-sanded lightly before adding another layer.If you want to do a double-tint and you're worried about mixing between tint layers, put down a layer of shellac first, then do the second tint.If it's screwed up some how, you can get rid of the top layer without disturbing the first colour layer.Regards,Leon Jester

2. 
   mt330 | Jan 20, 2005 11:56pm | #10

   Thanks for the help. After 3 coats of the dye oil the cabinet looks great. Thats why I don't want to ruin it now. I am thinking about putting a coat or two of clear tung oil. I don't know if it would do any good or not.

3. 
   lwj2 | Jan 21, 2005 05:33am | #11

   It will probably give the finish a bit more depth.I usually coat with about four to six coats of a mixture of tung and raw linseed oil*, wiping it on thin with a pad, lightly scuff sanding between coats. In my shop I allow three or four days -- depending on humidity -- before re-coating.I don't care to use three or so thick coats, from my (limited) experience, the effect appears rather plastic like.I usually seal first with blonde shellac, sometimes with orange depending on the effect I'm going for.*Formulated as follows:1 ounce raw linseed oil
   4 ounces tung oil
   1 tbs (½ ounce) japan drier
   Gum turpentine to make 16 ouncesRegards,Leon Jester

4. 
   mt330 | Jan 22, 2005 01:23am | #12

   Thanks allot. Going to put on a 5th coat and that will probably do it.