Replies

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Jan 24, 2007 01:26am | #1

   The way I would do it is to get two thicknesses of foam. Cut all the way through the top one with an electric knife (with serrated blade). Then get some upholsterer's foam adhesive and spray the bottom side and apply carefully to a solid layer of foam. Then you have a "french fitted" foam insert. If you have ever seen a "band sawn box" this is the same technique.

   I'm sure there are ways to make patterns and cast the foam to this shape, but that's a lot of work.

1. 
   Yogi | Jan 24, 2007 02:21am | #3

   Thanks!  Good thinking-  What do you tink of John's reply below?  Any similar experience?  I expect I could easily use your method with, not foam, but with thin sheets of that white, rigid insulation type, stuff they use for shipping-  Thanks for your reply- 

2. 
   Patto | Jan 24, 2007 05:33am | #5

   If you want odd shapes and arenot too fussed about the look of the bottom of the cutout, there is a way I used for making a box to protect wargaming figues for the kids - some of these run at $40 each plus time and care to assemble and paint.

   Take apiece of foam and mark the outline of the hole on the surface (laundry or whiteboard marker works fine). Take a sharp knife - I used one of my pfiel carving knives but that was just what was at hand) and cut your outline to depth, Knife held pretty vertically and gentle sawing action. score the waste are into approx 3/8 squares and reasonably close to the right depth. Pluck the squares out 1-2 at a time, bing carful not to go right through the foam.

   This is sort of a home made approach to how they do camera cases etc when you never know what lenses they are trying to put in.

   Dave

1. 
   sapwood | Jan 24, 2007 10:08am | #6

   Foam used in museums and by art handlers does not off-gas. The foam I'm used to is called Ethafoam. It comes in a variety of densities. I've never had to purchase the stuff I've used but I believe it's a bit spendy.

2. 
   JohnWW | Jan 24, 2007 01:32am | #2

   You can get a toothless razor edged blade for a bandsaw that will cut through the foam very smoothly, this is how it is often done in industry. 

   Be aware that many foams will, over time, off gas chemicals that can severely corrode metal.  I've had several nice precision tools damaged in this way, they were in the foam lined boxes from the manufacturer, so I no longer store any tools on foam.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   Yogi | Jan 24, 2007 02:23am | #4

   John-  Thanks for the caveat-  Much appreciated-  So what DO you use for cushioned support for tools?  Thanks-

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 24, 2007 06:30pm | #8

   One method is to cut out the pocket in an upper layer of wood and then place felt on a panel that covers the entire bottom of the upper piece.  The sides of the pocket are wood but the tool doesn't bear hard against the sides, but the bottom is cushioned.  Traditional machinists cabinets have wool felt in the drawer bottoms, I don't know if a synthetic felt will work as well.

   Unless you know for sure that the foam you are using is safe I wouldn't use it.  Packing foams are meant for temporary use, the problems I had with foam damaging the metal took a couple of years to develop.

   John W.

3. 
   cowtown | Jan 24, 2007 10:29am | #7

   Yogi.. it's referred to I believe as french fitting, and I find myself in that particular perdiciment as well- fitting drawers to effectively and safely store measuring and layout tools.

   I'm about to the point where I'm gonna cobble up a whack of 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4" thick stips , about 1/2" thick (that should be enuf to keep tools from sliding around, and just start cutting and fitting pieces around the tools step by ste- pinning them in place with a 23 gauge pin - easy enuf to pull out if the block doesn't allw you to pull the tool out of it's slot.

   With drafting tools, the felt seemed to "wrap" around the wooden blocks, maybe done with wet felt and a vacuum- gotta try that sometime.But these folks has done a good job of the french fitting so maybe there's something to be learned by sacrificing a drafting tool storage box.

   My conundrum is also related to machinists tools.... many of which have wierd angular pieces attached to them.

   Foam, well I use the high density stuff to hold router bits in a case, but never thought of using it to hold machinists tools, although come to think of it, it is used in a lot of the micrometer, planimeter, and other precision tool cases. I gotta revisit that possibility of solution. High density foam is not exactly cheap, and most wood butchers have lots of wood scrap tucked away though.

   From my experience with the router bits, a sharp chisel or an olfa knife would cut the outlines cleanly, maybe not vertically (due to compression of the foam), but if it's only 1/2" thick, it might work out well. For the router bits, I just use 1/4 or 1/2" round leather punches with a rotary twist as I push down with mere hand pressure , and it works out well. (for the 1/4" stuff I sometimes just cheat and poke a hole with an awl or a drill bit....)

   Thanks for the post. It helps me with my roundtu-it list priority assingnment.

   After all, there ain't nothing more worse than a whacked-out-of-square square, unless it's and unlevel level vial.

   Eric

4. 
   [email protected] | Jan 24, 2007 06:48pm | #9

   You soak the foam with water, and freeze it.  Then cut the shape with an air powered die grinder.  Filthy nasty mess, but it works.