Help!
In a discussion on another site I realized that I really need to find a way to sharpen my gouges, both in-cannel and out-cannel. As a hobbyist I don’t need to sharpen even my chisels and plane irons often enough to keep my freehand skills sharp (it isn’t like riding a bicycle) so I’ve been using a jig for chisles and plane irons.
I use chisels and planes much more than I use gouges, so I’ve not really developed any great skill to do my gouges. What I usually do is to lightly clamp them with the end sticking out beyond the edge of the bench. I set a sliding bevel to the right angle, and use it to give me a visual reference of the angle I want. I set my sliding bevel beside the gouge and tip it this way and that as I ply the stone. This works only to get me just a good-enough edge. As I described all this on that other board, it hit me that I’m not getting the results I would like.
I would dearly love to be able to get my gouges as sharp as my chisels. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is there a jig available that actually works for gouges? In a couple catalogs I’ve seen a jig that’s supposed to work on gouges. Has anyone tried it? Does it work?
It’s getting to be that time of year when we get all fuzzy-hearted and get an urge to share our goodwill and good fortune with others. So does anyone have a sure-fire to share? Please. (Actually, sharing a “good fortune” would be just about right; I could hire someone to sharpen my tools.)
Alan
Edited 11/22/2004 6:47 pm ET by Alan
Replies
Alan
Have you seen the Mike Dunbar Video on Sandpaper sharpening? It is excellent, and in it he deals specifically with sharpening curved surfaces, such as on gouges, adzes, scorps, etc. For the inside, beveled edge, he uses PSA sand paper attached to a wooden dowel. The video makes it clear. You can get a copy from Taunton, or Amazon, or Klingspoors sells a sandpaper sharpening kit with the video--it's a good value. Hope this helps. Tom
No such thing as Truth, particularly in sharpening.
Two alternative approaches are an artificial stone that contains a range of lumps and grooves to suit different sweeps.
Another is to move the gouge at 90* to the shaft, rolling it as you go. Angle is established by lifting the handle until flat on the bevel (indicated by a little of your lubricant expelled from the under the edge. This was shown to me at a demonstation at a tool show when I questioned my troubles with small gouges, and has worked for me. It hasnt worked for longer tools such as turning gouges because I cant support the weight of the handle at that degree of moment.
Hi Alan ,
For gouges sharpened on the outside I use a flat oil stone and work the tool in a sort of figure 8 at the correct bevel . For inside edges I use slip stones of different grits.
I hope this helps a bit dusty
I like to finish with a buffing wheel to a mirror finish. I work with a leathe strope dressed with a polishing abrasive handy and touch up the edge frequently. Sometimes it is remarkable what a few seconds stropping will do to an apparently well sharpened tool.
BJGardening, cooking and woodworking in Southern Maryland
Thanks everyone,
I should have mentioned that I have a full array of slip stones, round stones, conical stones, square, oval, triangular...stones and other sharpening implements of every description. The problem is that I don't get enough practice to use them well enough.
Oh well. I had hoped.
Perhaps I will invent the perfect jig for sharpening keener than razor everything from Boy Scout knives, to axes, to gouges, to lawn mowers, to chisels and planes, to can openers, to awls, to grass edgers. I will license my patent for many millions of dollars, and then hire someone to sharpen my gouges for me.
Alan
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