Replies

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Oct 28, 2005 04:29am | #1

   Hi Kelly,

   Building your own bench, in my opinion, is an excellent choice.  I chose to biuld my workbench to be built against a wall, as opposed to freestanding.  What you plan on making, your height and the tools that you plan to use are all influences that will help to determine the workbench that's best for you.

   My first workbench was made from an unfinished  1 5/8" birch solid core door.  I chose birch because of its stability, and its forgiveness to all other woods that I thought I might be working with, in terms of hardness.   My total benchtop measures 29 3/4" x 87 5/8".  I then attached 1/2" birch plywood underneath, extending it beyond the original door, about 8" on the long end, to allow for a rear tool tray.

   Next, I made a table out of 2 layers of lamininated (glewed and screwed) 3/4"Fir plywood that measures 36"  x 60", both top and end risers.  Don't use drywall screws, use galvanized deck screws.  The table has a section of 3/4" fir plywood (2' x 5') on its backside that I lag bolted into 3 wall studs.

   The benchtop is surrounded on the front and ends with 1 3/8" solid birch planks, planed, and left 1/8" proud of the door top.  I planed these down flush and square later, after adding a Veritas front vise and their awesome Twin Screw vise at the right end.  I then added an assortment of their 3/4" round Bench Dogs and Pups.  Just drill some 3/4" rounds holes!

   I know, I have probably left out many details in this but the point is that you want to eliminate any possible racking, both horizontally and vertically in whatever bench you decide is best for you.

   Good luck with your bench, and feel free to keep us all posted on your progress!

    

   BoB @ Kidderville Acres

    

    

2. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 28, 2005 06:40am | #2

   Hemlock or Fir are really nice woods.. If you can get straight grained... WONDERFUL!

   Hell, you can make a Good bench out of pine! Just the top should be a bit 'HARD'!

   
   

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   Edited 10/27/2005 11:41 pm by WillGeorge

3. 
   Turbo | Oct 28, 2005 07:04am | #3

   Kelly,

   In commercial cabinetmaking and fine custom design for new or remodeled home cabinets, we use 1 1/2" MDF, occasionally particle board for workbench surfaces. When enough cuts, drill holes, stains, adhesive spills, etc., make it difficult to use, we turn it over, and use the other side for another 10 years or so, then replace them.
   If you'd prefer a showroom shop, nicer qualities of hardwoods are appropriate. Cover it with plastic when staining, gluing, paint, etc.

   Turbo

1. 
   John_D | Oct 28, 2005 09:35am | #4

   I have an MDF top on my old workbench, and clamping for planing etc. is a constant pain.  I have just bought a Sjoberg (not yet assembled) for $180, and I think it's going to be very useful.

   So do you cut in dog holes in your MDF tops?  How do you hold for planing etc?

   BTW this isn't intended as combative, I'm just trying to learn different techniques...

1. 
   Turbo | Oct 29, 2005 04:05am | #5

   Vulcan666, The boards are planed (electric) by the time they get to the bench. In cases where a hand plane needs to be used, I've driven nails into the bench top at the ends to hold the board, opened up drawer(s) and closed them to the board's width, used z-vises, clamps, jigs, etc. Good luck with your new purchase. Sounds nice! Turbo

2. 
   milanuk | Oct 29, 2005 04:28am | #6

   I'm kind of a bench neophyte myself, working w/ bench 1.1 so, built before I decided to try 'woodworking' (and I do use that term loosely in relation to what I do in the shop ;p )... but from what I'd worked with so far, one of those portable drill presses clamped in place, or a suitable jig for a plunge router, either one should make nice round 3/4" dog holes, and then chuck a small roundover bit in the router to chamfer the holes... if you don't want to drill/route holes in the bench top, then clamping batten boards in place seems like it'd serve to hold the workpiece from skating around too much. Or just use nails/screws like already mentioned. Piece of 1/4" hardboard as a sacrificial top that can be held down w/ carpet tape and pulled up and replaced when it gets too ugly seems to work fine for a lot of people. I've done similar w/ 3/4" ply, don't see why MDF would be significantly different in this respect.HTH,MonteEdited 10/28/2005 9:31 pm by milanuk

   Edited 10/28/2005 9:34 pm by milanuk