I just aquired an old 1900,s pine drop leaf table that requires repairs. the first question is in regarding the castors on it. They appear to be cast iron and attached with small square head nails instead of screws. Does turn of the century and this type of castor sound about right.
Second question is that the table top is cracked its entire length. It had been glued ounce before. Would re glueing be the best solution.
Replies
The square headed nails are probably "machine cut nails" which date from about the 1820's to the introduction of wire nails about 1890. It's hard to tell how long ago the split top occurred, but it was probably repaired with hide glue which degrades (loosens it's bond) when exposed to moisture. You may wish to leave the top as it is now or elect to repair the split. It will be necessary to joint both split edges to achieve a good joint. Jointing will reduce the overall original width of the board by the amount of wood removed during jointing. This may have a negative effect on the relationship of the top to the aprons. Check this out first.
You can use hide glue to make the repair, Titebond offers it in small containers, or use their one regular woodworking glues.
Good luck on the project.
Jon
Triming the top for a flush fit will not work as there is not enough extra width to allow for the proper funtion of the drop leafs. Adding a spacer will detract from the value of the piece. I will have to glue along the crack and take it from there. The glues I have on hand are Elmers yellow wood glue and a polyurethane glue I just got and have never used before. I have worked with titebond glues but am just out at the moment. I want a joint that will hold for awhile and not have to worry about it coming apart in a short while.
I wonder if you could rig a doweling jig to put holes square to the axis of the table, for strength a bit, but primarily for alignment as you clamp it up. As to glues, I am not sure of the color of your wood, but some glues, epoxy and urea resin, can be dyed to match a color, and both are gap filling. I mention this because on reairs, I have found that age, nicks, etc sometimes means that the joint willnot close perfectly the full length. I would use the urea resin, Unibond 800, as opposed to the epoxy, were I going this direction. If needed, you could then paint the grain marks on the repair area.
PD,
For the split, I would suggest discussing this with an antiques dealer. You never know! The value of the table may be greater as it is as opposed to "fixed". A lot of antiques are worth appreciably less because the were "fixed".
Don
If it really is from the 20th Century, I'd not worry much at all about the repair of the split lessening the value. Production numbers at that point were high enough that furniture from that era, especially tables and chairs, are not likely to ever fall into the "rare" category. When people are looking for furniture of this era, they generally want something in good shape.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
Generally true I agree. But not always and could be worth a quick appraisal. The Grand Rapids area of Michigan was full of small furniture manufacturers of that time, and some of those manufacturers wares are rare and sought after.
Don
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