I recently purchased a couple of pieces of quilted maple. The figure is beautiful! Knowing highly figured wood is difficult to plane, after resawing the pieces, I used the drum sander to level and smooth the wood.
I noticed some slight burn marks, even though I was taking about 1/128th of an inch per pass. One quarter turn on the height wheel is 1/64″ and I was taking half or even 1/3 of that. But that really wasn’t an issue. It did tell me I was working with something quite different than even the high figure maple I have worked with.
When I went to finish the pieces, I decided the random orbit sander would probably be the best choice. I took it to 220 grit and the wood was smooth but seemed lacking in “pop”. So I took one piece and put a hand scraper to it. I started to see the pop and I gently scraped until the “depth” and figure of the wood was brought out.
Then I ran my hand over it. I felt a roughness. Under magnification, I saw the scraper had created mini tears in the wood grain. I did my best to follow the grain but it’s so complex I couldn’t go more than 1/4″ before I had to make a turn. It would take forever this way!
I have a L-N No.112 scraper and I took that to the wood, hoping a $235 tool would out perform the $5 scraper blade. I do not have the edge burnished on the L-N scraper blade. There was no difference. The surface was still somewhat rough, even though the figure popped nicely.
Is there another method I could use to keep the pop and smooth the wood at the same time? I plan on finishing the piece with BLO and laquer or possibly just laquer alone. Still not sure on that. But either way, I will not be staining or dying the wood.
Replies
Maple is great stuff. Krenov tried 'em all; came back to maple
Nice look ! I like the border !
The BLO will make it yellow. You probably know that. Personally I would stick with the lacquer alone.
Part of the pop you are getting is that you are burnishing the surface with the ( dull ??? scraper plane. You said you had not fully sharpened it I believe ) .
Note my closing signature at the bottom of my posts :
"54 º shaves"
This plane with a 54 º grind otta do it.
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=93
Get the shallower grind blade and put a secondary bevel of 54 on it that way it is easier to grind it back shallower for other projects.
May be best to go with a narrower model of this plane. I have the wide one and LOVE THIS PLANE but Larry has me convinced that for a finish plane on hard stuff the narrower is better. His plane is no doubt just as great of a finisher or better but not the easiest / quickest thing to come by.
You will know if the sharpening is adequate when you can shave curls off a single hair ( using your magnification lens to see this ).
The sharpening is really getting in the ball park though when you bring the blade to your arm hair and they start to pull themselves up and jump off your arm before touching them.
: )
That tool box in the photo is rock maple. Made in 1977 or so and has BLO then varnish. Yellow. I can not capture true color with my limited camera. I would have done it different now. Maybe just some well thinned ultra blond shellac. Not for a table top though.
PS: Sanding before planing may be asking for perpetually prematurely dull blades, scrapers. I WOULD NEVER CONSIDER DOING THIS. Some here say is no big deal. Could be.
Thanks for posting ! Getting pretty slow around here.
For comparison
Same camera on bare rock maple
I know . . .
blue back ground
apples and oranges
What can I do ?
What Can I Do ?
Well post more photos and generally hog the forum and be a nuisance . . .
I took this today so best I can do. I know . . . obsessing on an insignificant detail.
Sandpaper, a wet sponge, sandpaper, and a washcoat of shellac is the way to go.
Avoid scrapers, planes, etc - unless truly fearsomly sharp, all will cause some tearout and roughness when working figured maple for most of us in the craft. Sometimes TFsharp tears it out anyway.
Using a plane after sand paper dulls the blade due to the abrasive that the sandpaper throws off during sanding - which embeds itself in the wood surface. Not really a big deal - you just have to sharpen more often except when working with figured maple, and then your bladed tools just tear out larger chunks at the last smoothing pass.
One of the ways that I tame figured maple is to sand it smooth starting with 150 grit sandpaper and work through the grits to 240.
Then I "de-wisker" the wood. i.e., I dampen the wood's surface by wipeing it lightly with a damp (water) clean spounge and let it dry. This raises the fuzz of small broken wood fibers caused by sanding. When it is dry, I hit it with 340 sandpapeer and de-wisker it again, sanding as before.
Then I give it a 1# wash coat of shellac, at which point the figure starts to pop. Sanding lightly between coats I do this 3 times, by which time it no longer fuzzes and the figure is pretty bold.
Then I varnish it with a good oil based varnish such as P&L #38 (order from Canada) or a good wiping varnish (any oil based varnish thinned by an equal amount of paint thinner/mineral spirits). Now the wood reaches it's real beauty.
BLO does make un sealed figured maple pop with a beautiful early warm finish, but it turns decidedly yellow with time.
Water based varnishes make the wood look dead.
Thank you Mike!
Please forgive my ignorance, but could you explain the whole washcoat thing? While I love working with wood, I'm a bit deficient when it comes to finishing. My grandfather taught me the process of sand, tach cloth, stain, sanding sealer, sand and varnish. He also preferred P&L products. And everything I have made has been finished that way.
I bought Taunton's book Finishing by Jeff Jewitt. WOW! I had no idea. But the whole thing about a shellac washcoat is still unclear to me. Do you have to take shellac flakes, mix them, dilute that with ?????, let it dry and sand it? wipe it before it dries? I'm kinda lost.
Thanks, Julie
Wash coat is pretty easy
Hi Juli,
You can certainly start with shellac flakes, but for a washcoat it is much easier to use Zinsser Bullseye dewaxed shellac.
On the can it will proclaim itself to be "Universal Seal Coat". Don't buy the clear shellac that is not so marked as it will contain wax and will defeat your follow-on coats of varnish. Zinsser seems to have stopped putting the date of manufacture on the can so you want to purchase it from a paint store where the owner can tell you that he just got it in. Zinsser has a preservative in it that keeps it fresh for a year - after that it spoils in the can and will not harden properly.
The purpose of the wash coat is to seal the pores of the wood just a bit so that if you are staining the wood, the wood will not be so prone to blotch, and if you are going directly to finish, your finish will go down more smoothly.
The shellac in the can is a 2lb cut. You want approximatily a 1lb cut to do a wash coat. Approximate is the key here - I get it by pouring 4 ounces of shellac into a clean bell canning jar followed by 2 ounces of Bekhol. Bekhol is grain alcohol carried by Woodcraft. I use it rather than the cheaper can of wood alcohol from Home Depot because wood alcohol is poison, fumes and all, and can injure if you breath the fumes or absorb it through your skin. You could use Everclear from the local wiskey store, but that's pretty expensive as you pay a liquor tax on that.
What you want to accomplish with your wash coat is to just coat your surface evenly with the 1lb cut of shellac. There are lots of ways to accomplish this, but I've found that the easiest way is to use 1/2 of a white "miracle cloth" folded into a ball and doused liberally with the 1 lb shellac. Moving quickly, wet the surface evenly with the mix and wait 5 minutes then do it again.
Then sand lightly and do it again and sand and you are done.
Hope this helps.
Mike
careful - dewaxed shellac is addictive
Addictive - not medically, but procedurally, since it is such wonderful stuff. It goes on top of almost everything, and under almost everything, making it extremely versatile. It is also one of the most moisture-resistant finishes available.
I recommend buying dewaxed flakes, and then mixing small quantities, as needed. The flakes last indefinitely, if stored properly, but mixed has a shelf life of about a year. A small propeller-style coffee grinder is handy, too. A couple of seconds in the grinder will crush the flakes, making mixing much faster. An inexpensive kitchen scale is all that is needed to weigh the flakes. I like the stubby, wide-mouth Ball brand glass canning jars, in pint and quart sizes.
Also look for advice on "the burl" at delphiforums
Hi Juli,
You might like the crowd over at http://www.theburlforum.com
the next time you have a woodworking or finishing questions. Lots of old Knot heads over there.
Mike D
I'll be heading out to the store to stock up on washcoat supplies. But NOT on black Friday!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Careful of that new junk shellac thinner
You may want to look through this discussion.
http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/finishing/filling-pores-4f-pumice
Mostly the posts there about the variations on recent shellac thinners. I can no longer get the pure alc stuff I used to use and the last stuff I bought is full of stuff I am not liking to breath.
That product is H. Behlen, Behkol, B650-2816
Nah dude nah
It seems to dry slower which may have some small advantages but the fumes in a shop in the winter are not good. The plane old Pure Anhydrous Denatured ( one ingredient ) by HOCK was perfect. I am not convinced the low water content is all that big a deal but it sure dissolved shellac and the fumes were so little it was no problem at all. They don't make it any more of course.
May be best to buy the drinking stuff and pay the tax. That is what I am going to try next.
When you go to the link above page way down to post called : "Regarding which alcohol to use" for more posts. Here is a copy of a very informative post by Mike D :
Regarding which alcohol to use, I recently read an article that pointed out that wood alcohol (a poison) is much cheaper than grain alcohol (good for you). Therefore, wood alcohol is taking up more and more of the mix in denatured alcohol than in the even recent past - so much so, it was claimed, that you are in danger of wood alcohol poisoning from the fumes when you work with it in inclosed places - such as my basement workshop with no windows to speak of. So, I changed to pure grain alcohol. I noticed no difference in my finish, but my family noticed that I no longer emerged from my workshop after working with shellac looking like the wrath of God - i.e., flushed red skin, slight redning of the eyes. So I looked up the symptoms of mild wood alcohol poisoning - flushed (red) skin, redning of the eyes, blindness, liver failure. Perhaps the $10 a quart is worth it? Hardly a scientifically valid experiment, but I'm now convinced.
I hear you Roc, but here's the data sheet...
I would say that I never argue with myself, but then my wife and children (and grand children) would all have a big laugh!
I agree that pure grain is the cat's meow, and I prefer it, but having tried Behkol recently I find that it is pretty good stuff. It has no where near the wood alcohol (methanol) content found in the handy gallon size "denatured alcohol" found at the big box and paint stores. Plus, it DOES take longer to dry (counted in seconds, not minutes or hours), greatly helping someone new to the joys of shellac achieve an even coating.
Here's the sheet on Behkol http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD20000087AB.pdf
The part I like is that it's 70% or greater grain alcohol and less than 0.1% of methanol. I grant you that it's not as good as pure grain, but it's close at 70%, and the other two ingredients don't seem to get to me like the mostly methonol does.
But you are right, pure grain IS best. Think I'll go have some :)
Mike D
The part I like
In the data sheet that is :
Inhalation can cause : heartdamage,blindness,bleedingand/ordeath
That's not so bad, I thought it was going to be kind of hard on me.
A fine cabinet maker has got to do what a fine cabinet maker has got to do.
: )
I know, worst case scenario.
Too True
In my own defense, after appearing upstaris red faced, etc,during finishing sessions, SWIMBO "suggested" that I put in a dedicated exhaust fan and USE IT! when applying finish in my basement shop. So, of course, I did and I do. The proper use thereof is occasionally reinforced by individual counseling sessions should an errant fume whiff upstairs.
In addition to the excellent advise I've gotten here, I've gotten in the habit of asking Lie Nielsen when dealing with cranky wood. My unscientific opinion is that a planed/scraped surface shows more of the figure and character of the wood than a sanded one, at least when sanding stops at 240 or so. Could you make a side by side comparison on some scrap to form your own opinion?
In Theory . . .
Well according to a side by side test done in the last year or two, I think in FWW, they demonstrated that with finish on the wood one couldn't tell which was used to prepare the surface , sand paper or hand plane.
However
I still think the planed surface is superior. Especially if a minimal finish is put on. In addition the surface is flatter using a hand plane and lastly if all that is just blown out of the water and proven to be wrong and an illusion on my part . . .
I can do without all the dust and defuzz sanding etc.
OK . . . the real reason is I like sharpening and I can't sharpen sand paper. There, it is out.
: )
I have close to 300bf of curly maple in my barn. As long as your tools and tool blades are sharp you shouldn't have a problem. Typically, I dampen the board slightly with water and run it askew thru my planer and it comes out very smooth. You aren't going to get the board extremely smooth due to the nature of the quilted grain but you shoud be able to remove knife and sanding marks with a very sharp scraper...
All this discussion about finish reminds me why I don't like finishing.
I have already read all the links posted up to the last time I posted here. I'll check out the new ones later today.
Since the last post I've tried practically every suggestion (outside of finishing related ones because I'm not at that point yet) and NOTHING works! I own a number of L-N planes and I've taken their blades and sharpened them to scary sparp. On my #4 smooth plane I have both the standard and high angle frogs. I've tried both but no luck. I've increased the angle on the blade but that didn't matter. I've set the cut so thin it's almost sawdust. Every attempt results in gouging. I've never worked with a wood so difficult.
I'm now at the point I can't take any more off the wood so I'll have to accept whatever the look the finish gives me. But next time I have a project where I'm going to use quilted maple, I at least have all the knowledge everyone provided here. Thank you!
Julie
You have tried PRACTICALLY every thing
As they say : "You've tried the rest, now try the best "
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=93
54°
and meticulous sharpening. None O' that stroppin" and rullerin"
>I own a number of L-N planes . . . [including] . . . #4 smooth plane <
Yep, me too that is why I ended up with the Varitas bevel up smoother ( I have a LN bevel up jack but it is not nearly as controllable. There is no comparison between the LN thumb wheelie in the groove thing and the Varitas blade adjusting mechanism. The LN jack is a coarser tool and the Varitas smoother is a precision tool.
I was able to make the LN #4 smoother perform adequately on the extreme problem woods, after the fact, by using a back bevel but it is not worth the hassle and the blade advancement is still not as good.
Wetting the wood is good. Makes it too easy though. Kind of like cheating on the test. Mostly I wet it , during hand plaining, when I have a very large surface. The blades wear less quickly and when needed I can get a deeper cut with a blade radiused for finishing that way.
Post pics when all finished.
I never expected to hear something like that. I have a number of Veritas tools I just love but I was under the impression, when it comes to planes, L-N was the best.
I have a L-N bevel up smoother in my collection. I never even gave it a thought in this case because it was my understanding, when it comes to difficult woods, the higher the angel, the better. With the bevel up I max out at around 43 degrees.
What I really need to do is just get some scrap wood and work the planes until I really know them well. I've only been using them as I need them in a project.
I'm hoping to have the fixture done so I can deliver and install it before Christmas. I will post pics when it's complete.
Not the tools
Hello Juli,
Its not your tools, (unless they are not sharp) its the nature of the wood you are working with. In addition, card scrapers, even when perfectly sharpened, still need to be followed by a light sanding, especially on highly figured woods like curly maple. Use your planes and scrapers to get the surface as flat as possible then switch to hand sanding with good sanding blocks and sandpaper. It's a little work but the payoff is spectacular. I usually follow up my planing and scraping with sanding through the grits 220 to 400 then apply the finish of choice. In the photos attached the light table is finished with a wiping varnish, the stand is finished with a very light coat of BLO topped with dewaxed shellac. I added a better pic of the light er table top, it shows the figure better.
The planes all gouge the wood.
After the last post I took a scrap piece of high figure maple and went through a series of attempts to plane the piece smooth. I used a #4 L-N smooth plane with a high angle frog, a L-N bevel up smooth plane with a 33 degree secondary bevel and a small bevel up plane. On the BU plane I set the blade to paper thin cuts and closed the mouth so you could barely see light through it. No luck. With the #4 HAF I had the most luck but it still gouged the wood.
I've examined the blades under high magnification and there is no sign of rough edges. The edges were all sharpened to 8000 grit. They have a mirror finish and are square with the length of the blade. They cut paper like a razor blade. On other woods I can get a ribbon as long as the piece of wood.
I skewed the planes, I tried them in one direction then another. I ran them almost 90 degrees to the grain. I tried to follow the figure. Nothing mattered. Tomorrow I'm going to try wetting the wood. If that doesn't work, I give up. Maybe I need professional instructions or maybe this particular wood is impossible.
I'm now playing around with different finishes on sanded surfaces. I'm trying sanding sealer, BLO, dewaxed shellac and laquer in various combinations. Tomorrow I'll see how they look after curing overnight.
Thank you all for your input. I may not have tackled this particular problem but I learned a lot.
oh boy . . .
PS: aaaahhh another note turned into a novella.
I haven't lost my touch. Mel would be proud of me.
>What I really need to do is just get some scrap wood and work the planes until I really know them well. I've only been using them as I need them in a project.<
Yep ! But it is critical that the "scrap" is the exotic wood you tend to work or will work in the future.
I spent years doing what I call "playing scales". It was fun in its self. I would attempt something I could not do and do it over and over until it was no problem. I made tools from wood but not furniture. What that period was involved fettling the tools that didn't work from the maker, exploring the sharpening as a science and end in its self and working the woods that I intended to use in my future projects until I could get perfect results and . . . REPEATABLE perfect results.
But then I used to like to run or ride a bicycle on a deserted highway or mountain trail for eight or ten hours by my self.
I am not saying it is sane. Makes me happy though.
Always working on my style and technique like an olympic athlete imagining the coach was watching the whole time. No I am not very talented when compared to the world class competitors but I was proud of how much improvement I had made.
Same with woodworking . . . obsessive attention to detail and technique pays off big time. Serious time dues to be paid though.
>under the impression, when it comes to planes, L-N was the best.<
There are many better. Here is what is considered the best ; see photo
that is a Holty . . . last I heard this plane went for ten thousand dollars. New , not an old collector tool. He stopped making this plane a year or two ago to focus on newer designs.
PPS: THE BLADE ADJUST MECHANISIM IN THE HOLTY IS NEARLY IDENTICAL TO THE BLADE ADJUST MECHANISIM IN THE VARITAS BEVEL UP SMOOTHER. LN BU IS LEFT IN THE DUST ! ! !
I couldn't pass up posting Bill Clark and Larry Williams plane as well, it too should be considerably better than the LN or Vs.
LN and Varitas . . . nah there are "Wilder Skys Than These " !
I would , personally say a LN or Varitas is the bare minimum to get into REAL cabinet making and be able to do it without a bunch of fettling and farting around with old garage sale finds.
>bevel up smoother in my collection. I never even gave it a thought in this case because it was my understanding, when it comes to difficult woods, the higher the angel, the better<
Well as far as angle the lower the angle the better BUT you must use the lowest angle that still can produce the desired results.
Since you insist on using this funny, fun filled , flooppy, flappy, flakey wood then honey yoooou gonna have to do sumpin' extreme in the angle department.
YES ! and the BU plane allows you to sharpen the blade angle MUCH steeper than the bed angle of a standard bevel down or a high angle bevel down.
MUUUUUUUUCH better blade support at the edge than the #4 etc bevel down.
If you will steepen that sharpening angle to 50° or more and open the throat up some you may have found your plane.
>With the bevel up I max out at around 43 degrees.<
Why ? just sharpen it steeper.
LN vs Varitas
LN uses more bronze and more visual contrast so they look more beautiful. Yes I am totally willing to pay for that.
However
Varitas soles are flatter and more finely ground
Varitas blades are flatter and more finely ground
Varitas blade guides and controls are more precise and better thought out.
AND Varitas tools are less expensive.
Varitas doesn't take a back seat to LN except in the pretty department.
Even the Varitas plane handles are more comfortable.
I have had some minor problem with the handles loosening and maybe the bolts on the handles need to be beefed up.
Other than that Varitas be gooooood !
>Paper thin shavings<
Paper is thick .003 inch the shavings you want are half that thick or less.
How many times do I have to say 54° ?
Maybe I should say the sharpening angle is 54 °.
PLUS the plane bed angle of 12° to 20° = up in the sixties and seventies planing angle.
You can not compare this to a 54° high angle frog
! ! ! !
!
Skewing the plane is counter productive in this case; it effectively lowers the cutting angle.
Closing up the mouth is not as useful as many think and any extreme here is just going to cause the shaving to jam in the throat.
Razor blades are not nearly as sharp as the plane blades we are discussing will be when properly sharpened. Microscopically they are closer to fine saws. Yes they are extremely sharp but they are not mirror polished. They cut hair very well because the sharpening angle is so small.
To have a wide sharpening angle and shave curls off a hair is a whole 'nother ball game.
>Blade edge square to length of blade. <
Yes but more importantly do you have some small amount of camber to the edge ?
Don't give up on the plane.
Sand if you must . . . sand if you must . . .
. . . the heck with that . . . to sand is to admit defeat . . .
NEVEAAAAAAAHHHHH !
: )
This should make everything clear
Seems to me there are some terms or ideas that are getting muddled or miss understood.
This article should clear things up nicely. This is a very important "basic principles of wood working " article.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2091
Late to the party but none the less I agree with Bob 100 % . I do as Maloof did, power sand and then by hand working your way through the grits up to 400.... as you get into the final grits you will See areas you need to go back and re-sand with the prior grits to achieve a uniform sheen.
When you are happy with the final sanding take a cotton rag and burnish the surface (polish it) .The maple as well as cherry and most hardwoods will develop a nice sheen . IMO the finishing work is in the sanding process and burnishing .... applying the finish is the fun part as the figured grain will pop.
No dislike here of sharp planes , I use them every day the trick is to know when not to.
tom
I'm not finished but...
I have most of the fixture assembled and I've applied BLO to that. I have to assemble and finish it in stages because I have to install the LED strips and wire them together before I complete the assembly. Since some of the parts will be difficult to access once fully assembled and there will be LED strips that I don't want to get finish on, I chose to assemble/finish/assemble/finish until done.
Anyway, here's some pictures I took of the thus-far-assembled project:
3204 is the underside of the light fixture. The slats that the LED strips will sit in are not installed.
3214 is the top side of the fixture with the ornamental padauk slats (unfinished) on top. The two center pieces I like but the two outside pieces I'm not sold on yet. I'm thinking of shortening them and creating a different end on them. All the slats are positioned directly above the opening in the maple reflectors. The design intent is the upfacing LED strips will light them up.
3217 is taken from the end and shows the LED slats (bottom 4 padauk slats) inserted in place but not permanently affixed.
Thanks for the photos
Julie,
That IS NICE ! I enjoy looking at your work. The corner pieces are particularly elegant and full of energy.
sanding works
There are certainly woods out there that are harder to master with a plane than curly maple - but not by much
So sand it and be happy.
Things that help prevent teadout in cm using both power and hand tools.
- sharp tools (including your power joiner and power planner
- wet the surface of the wood just before. I do that with good results - although at last years WWIA conference I confessed to doing this and a guru that I respect actually sneered at the suggestion.
- camber your plane blades slightly and round off the corners - eliminates corner tracks
SAND IT! USE YOUR POWER PALM SANDER. If they'd had powered palm sanders in Old Williamsburg you can bet your bippy they would of used them.
sanding works
There are certainly woods out there that are harder to master with a plane than curly maple - but not by much
So sand it and be happy.
Things that help prevent teadout in cm using both power and hand tools.
- sharp tools (including your power joiner and power planner
- wet the surface of the wood just before. I do that with good results - although at last years WWIA conference I confessed to doing this and a guru that I respect actually sneered at the suggestion.
- camber your plane blades slightly and round off the corners - eliminates corner tracks
SAND IT! USE YOUR POWER PALM SANDER. If they'd had powered palm sanders in Old Williamsburg you can bet your bippy they would of used them.
Fun With Planes
Some photos I just came across from a year ago . . . some about the Varitas finish plane
Julimor:
Roc is right on the money. I recently purchased a nice low angle bevel-up smoother and put it to work on a box top of curly maple. The results were stunning!
Cheers,
-Ed
At the risk of sounding like a big O' fan boy
Hi Ed,
It is true when I say I owe most of what I know about the fine points of woodworking to Fine Woodworking Magazine. Not knowing hardly any fine woodworkers out here in the Wild Wild West ( and no internet while I was learning most of it ) I would have been in sorry shape without the magazine.
Keep up the good work.
Hey roc:
Well, that's how I learned to build furniture initially. Gave me an awesome foundation to begin with when I started here as a web producer a while back.
My father was reading since issue one, I grew up going through each issue after he finished up with it:)
Cheers to you!
-Ed
I am jealous. I wish I had some woodworkers in my family tree
They could have taught me a lot. It is some times hard for me to separate the BS from the chaff. Wait. Well you know what I mean. Hammer1 will tell you I ain't done learning.
>My father was reading since issue one, I grew up going through each issue after he finished up with it:)<
I started reading the magazine when I had no real intention to do any Fine woodworking. I simply found the articles so interesting I couldn't put them down. I would see the magazine and especially the hard bound books of the best articles ( do you remember those very nicely bound large thin books ) in the local book store and stand and page through them when ever I went to the book store. I even bought a couple of those.
Do you remember the one with the article about the guy who built his own huge bowl turning lathe out of steel and used a three speed army jeep transmission for the speed changer ?
I bought the hard bound book with that article I can tell you.
My surfer girl took it with her when she left.
To her credit she left me another of those hard bound books of hers in trade.
I wish I had the lathe one back.
Maybe one day I will try to buy up and collect all of those. There must be eight or twelve of those. I have almost every issue of the magazine and have read them, even the issues I don't own thanks to FWW on line but it would be fun to have those nice old "best of" hard bound books.
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