Replies

1. 
   Jay_Tran | Nov 22, 2001 05:13am | #1

   *
   Hey Scott, imagine my surprise when I read your post because I am making this exact same medicine chest as we speak. The design is from Rejuvenation lighting and fixture Co.
   I was able to get some specs from their website (rejuvenation.com) and will guess on some of the construction methods.
   I am going to attach the casing to the carcass edge and then install the whole unit into the rough opening. The door will then be attached to the casing edge with readily available ball-tip hinges(Rockler).
   Its sure a small world, I figure I can make this alot cheaper than the $330 asking price.
   Good luck with it!
   --Jay

1. 
   Scott_Cudrnak | Nov 25, 2001 09:52pm | #2

   *Whoa! $330? I never bothered to check. How do you intend to joint the face frame (what you call casing?) to the carcass edge? Isn't this better done after the carcass has been installed in the wall? That way you can shim the space between the carcass and the framing studs in the wall at the point the mounting screws are installed. Once the shim tapers are installed, you use small dots of glue to stick them to the studs, but not the cabinet, then you can remove/install the cabinet in the future w/o removing the casing to re-shim it.The wall cavity is double-deep to accomodate the drain tile for the upstairs bathroom. The opening has 1 of the 2 2 x 4's showing, just off center. I intend to make the cabinet back follow this on the wider side of the 2 x 4 to take advantage of the added depth. Probably box joints, though posssibly 1/2 blind dove tails.Scott

1. 
   Jay_Tran | Nov 27, 2001 02:58am | #3

   *Scott, I plan to check the fit of the carcass before I join the face frame to the carcass. Side shims are not that critical because when the drywall was removed I installed some 2x4 blocking between studs to act as a sill for the chest to rest on. Basically the screws through the side of the carcass will only keep it from tipping out of the wall opening. As far as joining the face frame I will either glue and nail it together or use glue and biscuits. Yes it really is $330, I am saving alot building it myself. Good luck. -Jay

1. 
   jroy_ | Dec 13, 2001 05:17am | #4

   *scotti am in the process of building a 1920-30 era medicine cabinet from my own plans......go to http://www.rejuvenation.com for insipiration to see what their medicine cabinets look like....u can also find the hardware to go with this era cabinet...i made the box and inserted it into the wall cavity before nailing the casing to the box, and to the wall studs...made from oak i prestained it before putting in and varnished it after in place..good luck, my cabinet looks beautiful if i may say so, and is a heck of alot cheaper than the poplar one rejuvenation is selling for $390.00 !!jr

1. 
   Joe_McMahon | Jan 12, 2002 06:08am | #5

   *I am building a second floor addition on my 1928 Chicago bungalow. I want to build a mirrored medicine cabinet but can't find any plans. I did see a nice one ay http://www.renovationhardware.com but. $200 for a small case and door seems like a lot. Can anyone help me with a source for plans? thanks, Joe