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I am finishing some cherry cabinets with bartleys gel varnish, and since starting, have decided a little more sheen would be nice. Since they don’t make a gloss bartleys, I’m thinking of a couple of coats of wax to deepen (?) the sheen. So far I have 4 coats of gel varnish applied, scuffing with 600 grit between coats. Any help you could give this bumbling woodbutcher would be appreciated.
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Replies
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Thanks for the help! I was thinking wax as sort of serving double duty: heighten the sheen, and protect the finish. I'm curious if you think the bartleys is durable enough on its own in a kitchen? It seems to be pretty tough without building a big film thickness that will crack. This is my first experience with it so I'm open to most anything. I do like the idea of a wiping poly over it. Something like a 50/50 poly/naptha mix?
*Try Liberon Professional clear, or clear shoe polish (the paste wax in a can - Kiwi brand). These have a higher percentage of Carnauba wax and give a harder, glossier finish.........
*Might try a 50/50 marine spar varnish (NOT poly)wipe on finish. It might be more flexible than poly and less prone to getting nicked. I would think in a kitchen you will want some sort of protective finish for the purpose of being able to clean adequately.
*Check this:http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/wax/wax.html
*Thanks again for the help,folks. I've always kind of liked the look of spar varnish, but thought it was beyond my expertise. I think I'll try the two different approaches on some test pieces I've been doing as we go along in this project. I gotta admit though, I'm getting a little tired of putting finish coats on all these cabinets, so wax is sounding better all the time. If I can figure out how to do it I'll try to post a photo when it's done.
*Well I tried some wax on a test piece, and lo and behold, no difference. So I picked up some McCloskeys semi-gloss spar yesterday, and we'll see how that does. BTW, can I expect the spar varnish to change the color of the cherry much? After trying a few different color stains, I went with just the bartleys varnish to let the natural cherry take on it's own color, Kinda seemed like sacrelige to put a stain on such a beautiful wood.
*Well I finally got around to playing with the spar a bit, and it looks really nice on some scrap. The naptha/varnish mix works really nice. Still don't have any way to post a photo, but a friend has a digital camera......
*I would like to know if I can put paste wax over an oil finish that I put on a sanded oak floor. The oil was linseed, the variety that the home despot sells. It looks okay, but the good lady want to have some reflected light, not a mat finish. It is an old floor, but I do want it to look reasonably good. Thanks for any comments. Eric right
*If you once wax that floor you will always have to and all the accompanying cleaning it will entail!! Why not put a coat of poly on it--semi-gloss, at the least? And then be sure not to wax that either!!
*Wax is indeed more of a maintenance hassle. But, it's more traditional and eminently more repairable than a poly finish. I like oiled and waxed floors. They look genuine.
*I prefer Mr. Zoggs SexWax for my "surf"-boards.-Aloha
*it's the best wax for your stick. :)
*I used a wax to bring back some luster on a bathroom vanity I made from qtr'd oak.I used Behlen's Rock Hard tabletop finish which produces a very glossy finish. (wanted the extreme protection but not that high a gloss)After each coat I buffed with 0000 steel wool to reduce the gloss. As a final step I rubbed on a wax and buffed out lightly by hand. Came out very nice...
*thanks to all you good folks who replied, bu it seems that the bosslady likes the finish as is....for now..... i can't believe how much darker the cherry has gotten in such a short time! I am so glad I didn't stain such a naturally beautiful wood. Thanks again for all the help. Hope to post some pics of the mantel and kitchen when I get the mantel done. Should start staining it tomorrow.wedge
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