Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Oct 26, 2007 03:56am | #1

   The first thing you need to do is figure out why it's cracking. Do you have any cross-grain construction? For example, is the top made of multiple planks, with a batten fastened across them? Is it possible that the wood wasn't completely dry when you put the table together?

   Until you've determined the cause of the cracking, you have no way of knowing whether it's going to get worse or not.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   ShawnC | Oct 26, 2007 04:18am | #2

   Hi,
   Thanks for the ideas. But I have no idea what's causing it.
   No, there is no crossgrain stuff going on. 21/2 - 3 1/2 inch planks glued up, each board turned so there are opposite end grains.
   The wood had been dried for five years. And machined and glued up for over three months. The only thing that changed is sanding it.
   Any more ideas how to figure out why it's cracking?
   Shawn

1. 
   saschafer | Oct 26, 2007 05:14am | #3

   So the crack(s) is(are) at the end of a plank? The only thing I can think of without taking a close look is that there must be a lot of built-in stress in the wood, and it finally gave way.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   ShawnC | Oct 26, 2007 05:34am | #4

   Yes, they are at the end of the planks, at the outside edge of the table top.
   So, is there any point in trying to repair it (glue, etc.), or if it is just internal stress, noting to do?
   Shawn

1. 
   saschafer | Oct 26, 2007 06:20am | #5

   Well, it's hard to know what to do. If it were me, and if the crack is just a hairline, I'd probably try to repair it directly, with glue and clamps. If the crack is significant, I'd probably cut it out and insert a patch.

   As an alternative, there was a video on YouTube a month or so ago. It showed how to use a bandsaw to "saw out" a crack from a plank. Unfortunately, I can't find the video any more. The technique could be adapted to a handheld jigsaw, which would be more appropriate for something as big as a table top. Basically, the idea is to tilt the sawblade so that it aligns with the crack, then, starting at the crack, saw the full length of the plank, following the grain lines as best as you can. Finally, you glue the two pieces back together along the cut line. If you're careful, the repair won't be noticeable, although the table will be about 1/16" narrower.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   user-148830 | Nov 14, 2007 05:41pm | #6

   Shawn,
   I once finish sanded a white oak top for a kitchen table and had it crack on me the next day after wiping it down with some water.

   I think the proper answer is that it's wood and wood does what it wants to do. Oh well. I'd put in a butterfly key over the crack and marvel at your inlay next time you sit to play cards. Good luck. Gary

1. 
   ShawnC | Nov 14, 2007 05:45pm | #7

   Hi, Gary,
   Yeah, that's exactly what happened--sanding one day, cracking the next. They were very fine cracks at the edge on end-grain, so I put a bit of Titebond into the cracks and sanded over it to get some wood dust into the cracks while the glue was still wet. Since the apple has a mottled grain, you can't even see them. Finishing with Waterlox worked great.
   Thanks for the post,
   Shawn

3. 
   fussy | Nov 17, 2007 04:56am | #8

   Shawn,

   Unless I'm mistaken, I came across your problem last week on another thread.  Seams as if you had put it on a covered back porch.  Anyway, apple is notorious for cracking--especially wide boards.  Probably the change in conditions (ie acclimated inside, then thrust outside with no finish set it off) cause the problem.

   The 3 solutions available are 1) ignore it; 2) put a butterfly in it, 3) rip it along the crack, cut it out, joint it, re-glue it, finish it and accept it as about 1/4" narrower than it was.  Don't feel bad.  You should see some of my screwups. (Screwup?! I designed it like that!)

   Steve

   There are two secrets to keeping one's wife happy.

   1.  Let her think she's having her own way.

   2.  Let her have her own way. President  Lyndon Baines Johnson