Replies

1. 
   Frank Vucolo | Feb 21, 2011 10:44am | #1

   Clamp it

   I agree with you that pins and glue alone will not yield a quality result. Clamping is required. As you say, tape works well, but is slow and difficult.

   I would suggest you work these pieces in pairs. glue a strip to the edge of each of two pieces. Use a couple of pins to register the edge banding so it doesn't slide, then butt the two banded edges together and clamp the pair to bring the banding tight to the substrate. 

   You could use wax paper or a single strip of masking tape to ensure the two finish edges don't get glued together in spots from squeeze out. You also might want put down some stickers below the glue up,to preserve the slight overhang of the edge banding as you glue it all up.

   Frank

1. 
   labolle | Feb 22, 2011 11:53am | #2

   Thanks for the tip. Tried it, Have come up with a better way.

   Thanks.  I tried butting too pieces together.  It was still finicky to allign everytihing when clamping, and one of the bands slid out of alignment when gluing, even with a few pins to hold them in place.  Maybe it's my technique that's lacking. 

   I have an idea.  I will take a piece of plywood and make a few slots to hold  the boards standing on edge with the banding on top.  Then I will make some sand bags with straps between them.  Several sets of them, then drape those on the banding to hold it down as it dries.  I think it will be an easy way to hold it down as it dries.  Easy to put on over the bands, one sand bag on each side,.  Several sets of them.  THen it shold be easy to take apart and put away afterward.  Also, I think it will be easy to make final adjustments and make sure the banding is centered on the board properly before I leave it to set up.

   I'll post a few pics when I make it, and let you all know how it works out.

   Anyone here ever try anything like this for holding on edge banding?

1. 
   DonStephan | Feb 22, 2011 07:25pm | #3

   You might consider a flat caul on top of the edging to spread out the effect of the sandbags.  I read somewhere that clamping pressure is distributed down and out at 45 degree angles to each side.  So ideally you'd have a caul half as wide as the spacing between the straps.  But even a couple inch wide caul should help a lot.  If the straps go directly over the 1/8" thick edging your're likely to see bulging up between the straps.

2. 
   ldn99 | Jan 23, 2012 02:04pm | #4

   I have earlier always found that gluing on edge lippings on large sheets is cumbersome. Sometimes I have just used masking tapes, but if you want a really tight fit where the glue line is visible, something better is needed.

   I created a simple jig which is easily clamped to the sheet and uses compressed air in a flat garden hose for the pressure. With this device I automatically get an even pressure along the edge with a minimum of clamps. Normally a pressure of about 2 bars is adequate. I hope the pictures show the essentials.

   View Image

   View Image

   
1. 
   DonStephan | Jan 23, 2012 08:06pm | #5

   A caul between the air pressure and edging still would be a good idea in case the edging is not perfectly uniform thickness.

1. 
   ldn99 | Jan 24, 2012 04:38pm | #6

   No caul

   No, the advantage of the compressed air hose is that it takes care of any variations in thickness of the lipping as well as minor imperfections in the sheet edge and give a uniform pressure, closing up any gaps.

1. 
   DonStephan | Jan 27, 2012 08:14pm | #8

   Consider vacuum pressing veneers to substrates.   Air pressure down on to the vacuum bag is directly analogous to your air line against the edging.  Everyone recommends use of a caul between the vacuum bag and veneer to get an evenly thick glue line.  That's why I suggested a caul between the air line and edging, but it is just a suggestion for consideration.

1. 
   ldn99 | Jan 30, 2012 01:35pm | #9

   For veneer yes

   I was thinking of a lipping may be 3mm (1/8"). For a veneer you need a caul or you will break the veneer at the edge.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jan 24, 2012 11:53pm | #7

   The material you describe is known as lumber core plywood. What Franfive suggested is pretty easy and offers some advantages.

   When glueing two pieces, edgeband to edge band, you want to be judicious with the glue, just enough, not too much. I like to use a stiff brush so I get full application with the ability to control the amount of glue. The acid type brushes aren't stiff enough, I use a half inch natural bristle and cut the bristles off so they are about 3/4" long. Too much glue and everything will slip around. When you start to clamp up, start in the middle with light pressure so you can move the edgeband if needed, work out to each end the same way, then slowly add enough pressure, again from the center out, it doesn't take a lot of clamp pressure, If you crank on the clamps, things will slide around. You should have almost no squeeze out, maybe a small bead or two here and there. The right amount of glue will make your life much easier. The edgeband will stick almost by itself since the thin glue line will be tacky, fairly quickly.