Replies

1. 
   81treehouse | Oct 13, 2006 07:01am | #1

   I personally would use a 1 part poly to 1, 2 or 3 parts naptha and apply with a lint free cloth (old tee shirt type material).  I use a 1 part to 2 part ratio mostly but vary depending on horizontal vs vertical and material being varnished.  It will take twice (or more) coats but no bubbles or runs and can recoat up to 4 times a day.

    

   A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
1. 
   tommyp | Oct 14, 2006 12:15am | #3

   woulp you suggest using that mixture in a spray gun as a base coat maybe 2 coats then light sand and a final coat

1. 
   skippy | Oct 14, 2006 04:32am | #4

   Can I jump in with a question?  Looking to install 3/4" T&G pine on ceiling.  Want to leave with natural look and considering a poly finish but I am concerned about it yellowing.  Any suggestions about how I should finish it (product and technique)

   Thanks

   Skippy

1. 
   user-211435 | Oct 14, 2006 07:39am | #5

   Skippy,

   You might try General Finishes Polyacrylic Satin.  It is basically, for purposes of a general explanation, a water based polyurethane finish.

   It won't add the amber color to your wood.

   Unfortunately, the wood will gain some patina on its own, no mater what you do.  I have heard that if Pauduk (probably the wood that changes color more than just about any other) is coated with Armor All, the change in color is slowed considerably.  I would apply the finish, then the Armor All.  Yes, I am talking about the stuff you put on your tires and car interior to stop the sun from fading the interior.  I guess it has a lot of UV protection.

   I should also tell you that I have never tried it.  If it was me, I would just use the finish, skip the Armor All, and go windsurfing. 

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

2. 
   nikkiwood | Oct 14, 2006 05:35pm | #7

   Any water based poly will yellow less than its oil based cousin. I would finish all the boards before installation. WB poly sprays very well, but if you don't have a spray set-up, brushing will work too.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   user-211435 | Oct 14, 2006 10:41pm | #8

   nikkiwood is right about prefinishing.  I have done a ton of wood ceilings and it is the best way to go.

   A quick way to apply it is to roll it on with a foam roller (I think the ones that West System sells are the best), then tip it with a foam brush.  After drying, it only takes a bit of light sanding with a fine foam sandpaper block, a second coat of finish, and it will be perfect. 

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

2. 
   Gretchen | Oct 14, 2006 04:18pm | #6

   I will be the first to say I don't spray, but I have read that spraying poly without a booth is not real good because of the slow drying time and the spray being everywhere.Gretchen

3. 
   81treehouse | Oct 14, 2006 11:24pm | #9

   If you thin it as I suggested, definitely use it was a wiping varnish.  Put it on with a soft lint free rag.  Only sand very lightly after the last one or two coats.  It may take upwards of 6 to 8 coats to build up to a sufficient thickness.  The beauty of a wiping stain is that the naptha (or mineral spirits per some finishers) is that the thinner (naptha in my case) flashes off and you can effectively recoat within a couple of hours depending on temperature and humidity.

    A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!

2. 
   nikkiwood | Oct 13, 2006 07:03am | #2

   when I have a lot of cabinets to paint, I will often use a small roller to apply the paint and then brush it out.

   I use polyurethane brushes all the time when applying poly, and years ago I seem to remember using foam rollers. I wouldn't hesitate to try what you're suggesting, but I would keep a brush handy in case the finish needs to be brushed out.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-