Replies

1. 
   beasleysevin | Oct 12, 2021 08:16pm | #1

   I am not a fan of the peel off veneers on anything that will get heavy use. You don't mention the type of table you are veneering. Heavy use kitchen table - contact cement for sure. Decorative side table - peel off if you want.

1. 
   tenderfootbob | Oct 15, 2021 09:05pm | #6

   The dining table is being constructed with quarter-sawn white oak wood and veneer.

2. 
   bilyo | Oct 12, 2021 09:12pm | #2

   My understanding is that contact cement is not the best for veneer although I know some use it. I have used glue specifically sold for the purpose with success and I have also used plastic resin glue also with success. I suggest that you do some on line research on the subject. This might be a good place to start:
   https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/what-is-wood-veneer/14-myths-about-using-contact-cement.html

1. 
   tenderfootbob | Oct 15, 2021 09:10pm | #7

   Thank you. I went to the source you recommended. A lot of information to process. I hope I can choose well.

3. 
   user-6901980 | Oct 12, 2021 10:05pm | #3

   Veneering a table top can be a challenge without a vacuum press - just getting everything under cauls is a lot of work. The number of clamps you end up needing for that kind of work is a bit overwhelming.

   Contact cement is your worst bet, though. Terrible creep and never really hardens.

   I think pros would say to use a urea-resin glue. I'm not clear how much formaldehyde exposure you would run into, but it could be a concern. Polyurethane glue or epoxy also work well, but can get messy. Epoxy should also give you a long open time.

   I've had success using cold press PVA glues, but I'm sure they are slightly less rigid than the chemical reaction glues.

   Supposedly, Unibond One is a PVA with a harder glue line. You'll have a challenge spreading a PVA and placing everything together within 15 minutes, though.

   If you can find someone with a vacuum pump and bag, give them a bottle of something nice in exchange for a couple hours with it. It will be well worth it.

4. 
   hoovermd | Oct 12, 2021 11:11pm | #4

   I've successfully veneered lotsa cabinet doors using a vacuum press and liquid hide glue. Have tried other adhesives but this is my fav.

   Works on thin paper backed, thick raw wood and all my other veneer choices too.

   Cant imagine doing this w/o a decent vacuum press though.

   
1. 
   user-6901980 | Oct 15, 2021 09:24pm | #8

   Did you do the kitchen cabs with hide glue? I often worry about even the edgebanding by the oven in my non-hide-glued veneered door fronts. Yours seem to be holding up just fine though.

5. 
   DRBWWing | Oct 13, 2021 09:48am | #5

   If you're using one large sheet, I would cut it down into manageable strips 10-12" wide.

   One very easy way to veneer is the hot iron method with PVA glue.

   Contact cement is another choice, I think you have to use paper backed veneer.

   Hammer veneering is another option.

   But whichever way you go, don't do it all at once!!

6. 
   [email protected] | Oct 17, 2021 09:29pm | #9

   First is the substrate grain direction the same as the veneer?If so there is a good chance the veneer will crack,the substrate will buckle or the veneer will crack or come loose.Why solid wood under the veneer? One inch baltic birch with the top sheet cross grane to the veneer would be perfect.Avoid my pain with a table I made 20 years ago wiyh a solid band around the edge.The kids stained the top and the veneer is too thin to get the stain out.But thicker veneer for table tops where people eat.See this table as it was at carolynprue.com and it is the table with 12 chairs